glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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I thought that’s how your drilling holes in round objects using a V block,, so I guess I misunderstood. -
Put a set on my Christmas list😊 The Chuck I have doesn’t fit the M70 mill though it does fit the lathe. Can’t seem to find a small enough one to fit it about 3mm max I’m guessing. ?
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Completely agree, only I use 320 grit to smooth and 400 grit to soften every edge. It’s subtle and it takes time but it’s not a race to the next blog entry and makes a big difference done throughout the model. I’m always impressed and inspired by your attention and skill with small detail work, it adds so much to the model. It’s refreshing to see as I’m grinding my way through Winchelsea’s skeleton. What carving tools did you use other than files, if any. I need to find that V block. I need an area in my workshop labeled “tools inspired by Derek.”
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I’ve done both, both work so it’s really your choice
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That’s really excellent detailed work on the cap rail. I hope to borrow that some day.
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Leaving the frieze long is a simple step but a masterful idea I’ll remember. did you use the fruitwood gel on your figurehead? It looks great, for me it seemed to cake on so I’m sure I’m doing something wrong with the thick gel stain.
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After spending Thanksgiving week with family I spent the last two days fairing and still have more to go. Can’t quite get the bow right and don’t want to take too much off doing it. My recently neat and clean work shop is that no more. A more detailed post to follow, when I can lift my sanding arm again. Yay for sawdust…
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The Kell tightens from the sides, so down to zero. There are two versions, one for large and one for small chisels so it more the maximum width.
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I’ve found Admiralty Ironworks Black looks great on wood for more of a Matt finish than the Dull (really gloss) black. I used it on Cheerful’s booms and spars to a nice effect. Your wales look great. Not a soul would know if the scuppers connect to the waterways, like you id not attempt that.
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Jim Byrnes now recommends Martindale blades, which I use on my Byrnes saw. A new blade from Jim costs $17, why fool around with old blades. I maintain the saw as Jim recommends an periodically clean the blade with alcohol before much of anything builds up. I’ve had, and cared for, the saw for at least 20+ years and have had zero problems with it other than replacing the blades I use only twice during those 20+ years. I did cut through the stop on the cross cut table once, Jim sent me a replacement. As someone said, let’s support the maker of the best tools modelers could find and buy what we need from Byrnes Model Machines.
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Jim Byrnes now recommends Martindale blades. I replaced the old Thurston blades on my Byrnes saw, they are perfect for model size cutting.
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I followed Derek and the you tube video he referenced by using various grits of adhesive sandpaper, 220, 320, 400, 800, 1000, 1200 adhered to a flat tile (or glass). That plus the Kell honing guide and a small amount of honing fluid on the sandpaper works great. Once they’re sharp the 400-1200 is all I use to keep them tuned up to a 30 degree edge (½ inch of the chisel extended from the guide). Don’t forget to condition them by flattening the back side, just run them perfectly flat on your sharpening surface a few times. Stone or sandpaper paper, the Kell guide was a game changer for me. Mine are perfectly sharp now.
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A never ending source of good ideas and techniques. A really great job of detailed paintwork. I enjoy this work myself and appreciate others taking the time and having the skill to do it right. Nice work!
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Angles are easy enough to do with creative jigs, the MF 70 is a great choice, there is so much you’ll learn to do with it there in your workshop. Be sure to get the Precision Machine Vise and Dividing Attachment.
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I love the Proxxon mill. Didn’t think I needed it, now I don’t know what I’d do without it. Take the plunge, it can be used as a drill press of sorts. The Vallorbe barrette files, which I learned of from Derek, are great tools I use often.
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The curve of the bow is not the same top to bottom.
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I’m content with good lighting and a pair of 2.0 and 2.5x readers. I tried the head magnifiers, didn’t like my field of vision restricted and for me they just weren’t comfortable.
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Most models don’t include sails. For me the reason is simple: this is a model, I don’t want cloth hiding and covering all the detailed work I did on the model and on the rigging. I included every line Pegasus would have, I added some lines to Lady Nelson per my reference book on cutters because the plans are sparse, so far as I know Cheerful includes all her rigging, etc.. I never considered attaching cloth to any of them, why conceal my work. In this case I do have contemporary models on my side, they don’t include sails, I imagine for the same reason.
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Hard for me to see but looks like you need more angle on the first and or second bulkhead and or you’ve removed too much from the third. Either way it has to be a smooth run. James could advise you better or maybe check photos of BE’s model at that stage.
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The bow area can and should be faired for the smooth flow of a batten top than bottom stem to the fourth or even fifth bulkhead. There should be no reason to add a strip. Often in my experience it is the 2nd or 3rd bulkheads that have not been faired properly and considered as part of a unit, not individual or 1 to 2 or 2 to 3. It looks like 2 in your photo has insufficient angle faired but it’s hard to see what’s causing. It isn’t faired until a plank runs smooth Keep the back edge of bulkheads fore of midship and front edge of bulkheads aft of midship as long as you can not to lose the proper design of the hull and both sides equal
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Great work, such expert carpentry and painting.
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Welcome from another Texas Glenn, I’m an Army vet
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