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glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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It’s a process. Still working on cutting out ports to complete planking above the wales. I finished the port side bow and needed a change of pace after fitting 20 ports (8 more to go) so I decided to do some preliminary fairing on the starboard interior. I’ve added 1/8 balsa between the frames to act as spacer, that plus the planking gets me close to the 3/16 required. I’m not done still more to do, but its close. It’s a little heart stopping to grind this out with a very light touch of the Dremel. It is made a little easier, still requiring deep slow breaths, by my new addition of a Proxxon pen sander for a lighter touch, then by hand and with chisels to clean up when I get close. I have it close enough now to go back later and polish up what I’ve done and complete the starboard interior. Really I just wanted to establish a little confidence I could pull it off and not have a port sill fly off the ship. Cheerful now seems like a piece of cake comparatively. Good news, with both sides of the bow now planked above the wales I’ve confirmed via the Chapter 9 template they meet the required shape for when, in the far distant future, I get to Chapter 9. Back to the port side planking now.
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- 21
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Looks good to go.
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Upload or type in your text then upload the photos. Place you cursor where you want to place the photo. Hover over the thumbnail of the photo, then click on ‘Insert’ and there you have it.
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That’s right.
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Don't have to hope for the best. Leave the aft edge on those forward of the waist and fore edge on those aft of the waist (so as not to overdue it and lose the shape and to keep both sides even) while taking the edges off the couple of center bulkheads so its smooth all the way. The batten needs to contact at least 90% of the bulkhead but if done well it will contact 100% of every bulkhead front to back. The stern takes a little more attention to follow the flow to the counter, it isn't especially hard on Flirt as my log will show. Slide the very thin batten up and down covering at least 4-5 bulkheads at a time, up and down back and forth - it will be right. Then it's just tapering and edge bending the first planking and you're home.
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Looks like you have some fairing to do, this is the most important step on every model and critical to what comes after.
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Red Ochre Paint
glbarlow replied to starlight's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Admiralty Paints Red Ochre is the best there is. Get it from Cornwall boats, excellent service whatever country your in. -
More or less yes, it’s tapering thinning the deadwood area so it’s 2mm at the end where the stern post attaches, not the whole deadwood. Just a variation what James describes in a he instructions. I think he went thinner and I wasn’t comfortable with that.
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I don’t know, that shocking orange color of the Sphinx could be the way to go 🤣😂
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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It really looks great, so meticulous.
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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You are certainly doing a lot of nice custom work on this model, all exacting and well done!
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- Victory Models
- Pegasus
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You’re not alone in this, I sorted it out but not without challenge.
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You should fare the bulkheads so there is a smooth run of a test plank fore to stern before adding the gunport strips, the probably would fit better. You definitely need to fare them before starting planking. The deck needs to be pushed / weighed down and glued to the bottom of the bulkheads side to side forming a slightly bowed deck before the gunport parts are added. Hang in there, solving problems is have to fun, for me creating often seems to be the other half.
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- Ballahoo
- Caldercraft
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I think what we did with part 21 is perfectly logical 😊 As you probably discovered the bulkheads have a little notch at their base. The way to get the deck to fit is to get one side to fit under the notches then work it down the other side to fit into those notches. It is not a simple task for sure and I don’t recall if the notches are mentioned in the instructions. The notches are a great idea for holding the deck, not fun to get it there. The stern frames are indeed fragile little things. Solving problems and fixing mistakes is all part of the fun, you did it and you’re moving forward, congratulations!
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Thank you, this helps. I was thinking I may have missed a .pdf, it was laid out on the plans for Cheerful.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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For us only dreaming about getting to this point….did I miss it somewhere, how do I determine the planking butt shift pattern below the wales? …I know, so long ago for many of you😏
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Nice work, you’re doing a fine job with this model. Nice to see a Sphinx being built well.
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Very glad to see you at this. We’ll be here to provide help by several of us giving you opposing answers to the same question and opposite points of view designed to get you throughly confused. Fortunately Vanguards instructions are so thorough and detailed you have the reference you need. Heres my first bit. I was too soon in adding the stem. I built Flirt after Cheerful and as an interlude to Winchelsea and I rushed it. It is a bit fragile (compared to the other two, by a lot) and I broke it, more than once. So your plan to take your time is the best advice you can have. Of course I repaired it easily enough and after painting with no visible evidence, but didn’t have to add it when I did (and if I’d just followed the instructions, duh).
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Where’s your build log, I want to follow
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My Process for Planking
glbarlow replied to glbarlow's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The original post was 9 years ago, while this process did and will work I now plank using a completely different method, following Chuck Passaro’s lining the hull and plank bending strictly with heat. I also no longer have the need for stealers, a by-product of my current process. -
I used Cadium Red on Cheerful, it looks great. There is no best color other than the one you like. Personally I like RED.
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I think you have to go with what you’re comfortable with and in fact they may have been distorted by the photo as 3 mm blocks are fine and 2.5 mm blocks would be extremely difficult to work with, at least they are for me. I’d think the doubles would be for the larger guns, but again if you like the doubles go for it, not that big a deal either way. I don’t think I did the returns, but the plans should show you he location of the ring bolts. The thing with advice on this forum is you don’t have to take it and it’s likely someone will offer the exact opposite opinion anyway. It’s your model and your fun
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Just to confirm, for reasons known only to Apple an iPhone or iPad phot will upload and post based on the orientation when it was taken whether it’s flipped in editing or not.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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It all looks good to me. What could have been done different at the beginning?
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