glbarlow

First Planking With the gunport patterns completed, time to start planking. Following Chuck’s “Lining the Hull” .pdfs as a guide I began the first planking by dividing the hull into two belts and marking the bulkhead markers using a planking fan. I described this process in my Cheerful log, so I won’t repeat all of that here. Granted in the case of Flirt’s small hull I don’t necessarily need to do it for this first planking, I could have covered the hull one way or another. I also acknowledge there are other methods and techniques for planking. Suffice it to say it is my opinion this is the best process to plank any hull. I am doing it here as practice for my future Winchelsea build, where this technique is essential to single planking. Since I know I will need full planks width with from midships to stern I only lined from bulkhead 8 forward. (PS: for grins I always write my name and the start date on the former, sort of like writing your name in wet concrete I guess, no real reason). I used my Byrnes Sander to sand the angle (67 degrees for the first several) to meet the bow and at the same time tilt the table down to bevel the back side to fit into the stem notch provided as part of Chris’ design. Next up, I taper the plank per the lining off plan simply using a steel rule and a #11 blade. The Swan Morton scalpel works as does the regular Excel knife version, whichever I reach for. Then the fun part, bending the plank. I don’t soak planks. just a finger wipe of water and a travel iron at my plank bending station. I converted to this method when I built Lady Nelson, I don’t know how I’d ever have planked Cheerful without it. Again I described this process on both those logs so I won’t repeat it here. There are a series of videos Chuck has describing it in detail available here on MSW. Having bent the plank to fit the length of the hull, I also add a twist using the iron (and keeping my fingers clear) to fit the plank under the counter when needed. Once bent, like shown here (just hanging with a piece of tape for the photo) I get a plank that will l lay right on to the bulkhead without forcing, nailing, or soaking. It seems counter-intuitive to bend down to fit up, but that’s the geometry of a bow that both turns inward in two dimensions as you move down the stem. This plank was the next one installed, where you see it is where it went. I use only CA for planking. For what it's worth the Smith Industries version I use doesn't a strong smell, at least that I notice. These two applicator types have been a part of my work bench for years, one medium and one fine tip. I use them until they fall apart at the tip then reach for another one, they generally last for one model. The key is to maintain them standing up straight and to gently blow out the excess glue from the tip at the end of the work session. My holder was just a bit of balsa with two holes until my granddaughter decided it needed painting and a little decoration. I don’t know the purpose of the ships wheel or the cleats she added, but they are there to stay now. With that the first belt is complete, now on to the second belt to finish up the first planking. I need to sort out the deadwood area around the sternpost, the second layer of boxwood planks are only 1mm, not much room for sanding to fit. I needs to be sorted out with the first planking. Off I go. PS: The white balance of these photos are all a bit wacky, Since they are pretty basic images I didn't spent much time trying to correct that. I'll have a talk with my iPhone next time round.

Wow!

You’ll get it, persistence pays off.

I spent a lot of time and wasted way too much rope trying to fill the ship with coils I liked.

I’ll enjoy seeing your new technique for the second planking though I’m pretty locked into tick strips, plank bending, and CA. Always instructive to read your log. My applicators work great for my use of CA, but I did pick up your applicator (or should I say your wife’s:-) for my white PVA glue use.

I mixed 3 rope sizes on mine and intentionally varied the length, varied the coils between 4-6, then made them a bit messy on top of that. I agree with Chuck, that rope is very white. well you asked 😁

Add a thin 1/32 strip as a waterway and the paint bleed will be covered.

That’s not any less true of plywood dust or any sawdust for that matter. When sanding anything I wear a mask. MDF is a solid reliable frame for any 1:64 ship model.

I thought those look familiar, glad they are helpful. I agree, in theory maybe one deadeye of the pair could be rigged, only if the shrouds aren’t served, but I don’t know why you would. As others noted the challenge is both getting the spacing the right distance and all shroud deadeyes in line. I don’t know how you’d do that off the ship. Plus I don’t think it would be easier off the ship anyway.

So you say 😁😂🤣

Yes you need the glue on the top to get the right form for the planking. As Derek says, they break off easy enough.

Glad you liked the post. I’m being a little dramatic for humor. It’s not that tough, you’ll be fine. Yes, lightly on each side. You break them off with pliers, this just helps with a cleaner break. Again lightly is the word.

In addition to these 4 videos there is one more of Chuck using his Cheerful prototype to demonstrate plank bending at a work shop, filmed by someone attending. I can't seem to locate that more informal but very helpful video. Does anyone have a link?

Gun Port Patterns Installing gun port patterns is not why I enjoy building models. I struggled getting a good fit with these four simple pieces of ply, quite a bit of fiddling about was required to get to a proper fit. When my friends see my completed models they invariably comment on how patient I must be - how little they know - especially when it comes to gunport patterns. While it’s debatable whether this step is necessary for Flirt with its gentle curves, I always begin by tracing a top view of the bow from the plans and transferring that to a piece of lumber. I keep all the old ones, only a little sanding with the Byrnes Sander was needed to match Flirt from whatever this former was used for before. I soaked the patterns for 30 minutes in a beer stein of hot water, clamped them to my former for an hour or so, then dumped the water and filled the stein with what it’s supposed to contain. I know its done all the time, but for whatever reason I don’t like to attach wet wood to my model, some unfounded fear of it warping the keel into a U-shape. Probably won’t happen, but why chance it. Then the fun begins, clamping the pattern to the bulkheads, lining up their tops - which of course working in three planes isn’t as easy as it sounds. I use wood glue to give me set up time, which I need, with just a little above the deck since the tabs of the bulkhead are doomed to the scrap pile later. I had done light scoring with a razor saw earlier on the sides of each bulkhead tap to help start that later process, light being the operative word. This is the step when I once again realize I can never have enough clamps. And here is where my impatience kicks in. Having finished the starboard forward pattern and having started the port forward I thought why not do the starboard aft piece at the same time. Don’t do that. It worked ok eventually, but clamps were flying off everywhere as I moved from one side to the other. I should have just stepped back, grabbed the appropriately filled beer stein and walked away, doing one section at a time allowing the time it takes, at least two hours, before starting the next one. Here is where the third plane comes to play. The pattern is curved by me to match the hull, the sheer is cut by Chris to match the run of the deck, so two out of three planes are covered, the third is the rounding curve of the hull top to bottom (tumblehome or flair). I had first dry-fitted the clamped pattern and knew this was coming, so I had soaked, curved, and dried the patterns three times before gluing it on. This serves to soften the unforgiving ply enough that it can be clamped to fit the curve. I had to choose top or bottom to clamp first, I chose the top. Once that dried I added glue to the area of the pattern that attaches below the false deck and clamped again. I should note that its not easy to place clamps, it’s a good opportunity to break a bulkhead tap. Fortunately I didn’t do that…this time. I have lots of clamps but only four of these ratchet type (I've now ordered more). They work much better holding the bottom edge of the pattern as needed to curve into the bulkhead. With the forward section done I added the port aft section - taking my time this time. The aft pieces are a much easier process, no pre-shaping needed. The key though is to line up the curve of aft end of the pattern with the curve of the counter where it meets the transom. I know I didn’t build the ship too short, the pattern is purposely long, so I dry-fit to get it lined up and marked off the extra length with a pencil. I removed the pattern and cut off most, but not all of that extra length, intentionally leaving it still a little long to sand off later. I needed rubber bands to glue the pattern to the transom, not much to clamp back there. With everything glued on this is a good time to check the fit of the stern facia piece. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just close enough that it will match up later on top of the second planking with a minimum of sanding, it’s easier to sand now, if needed, then later. Of course, like here, it was good I installed the counter with its curve in the first place. While I didn’t get a photo of the before, the net result of all this is a well attached pattern…with waves/waffling in the area nearest the stem. I know from experience this happens and that between sanding and the second planking a little bit of wave won’t matter. Still it bugs me, so out came my best wood management tool, my travel iron. I saw Derek also did this on his Speedy. It actually works remarkably well. I just ironed, in max steam mode, the bow patterns like they were a shirt. The waves smooth and the curves look much better. And with that my Flirt has its gun port patterns completed. I now remember there is life…and enjoyment…past the installation of gunport patterns. Now, I can plank. I could put the beer stein away as I won't be soaking anything else during this build...but there is its primary purpose and that may come in handy from time to time.

Already a very satisfied customer. Quick turn-around, quality wood, accurate cuts. We really need to thank Joe by buying from him and keeping him in business. We've missed having a ready source for milled wood. Thanks Joe!

Nice work on the winch, it looks great. Like you I enjoyed Chuck’s challenge for us to make this on our own.

I thought you brought the beer 😁

Great, be sure to let us know when you’re up so I can follow, your turn Bob😀

If you aren’t screwing a few things up you’re not learning. Adapt, Improvise, Overcome, this is why we do this for such opportunities.

It’s not fun unless I am completely lost a couple of times during a build.

Thanks Derek for the kind words.

Thank you for saying so. I started to steer her towards more traditional sailboat colors but stopped myself, she loves those colors together because she chose them and she painted them. I had laid out all my various acrylics in a row - these are what she chose, Vermillion and French Blue.

They are covering the same model, seldom the same territory. Every model is unique and we all learn from seeing how others do the same task. You should definitely start a log.

I hope you do start. It may seem a lot, Cheerful sure did for me, we just take it step by step one page at a time. Ratlines are tedious, but easy once you get going. Guns are a jig and a process. You only have to start, there’s plenty of help available.

This was a great log. Are you still working on Flirt?