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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. I don’t have those lines on my masters Shipwright version, nor does bulkhead 10 have front engraved on it (though obviously that’s easy to figure out). Sorting out the beveling is no big deal either, just as FYI to Chris. I i do have the first kit out the door though. Just now starting it.
  2. I've always mounted my models with brass pedestals on a walnut base. I'll give the acetate a try for Flirt, it is nice looking. However I'll have to glue it in so my grandson doesn't think this is the model, "when can I play with one that has guns?" he gets to play with. 😄 Good to know about the waterline, I hadn't thought about that.
  3. What is your source for that statement? I haven’t been in contact with Bob in years but it doesn’t sound like him. While Bob is/was a bit cantankerous on his forum I too got my start in this hobby with his AVS practicum which are still available Here I would never have built my first model without it. My POF Fair American is from another of his practicums and is one of my best models. Unfortunately I heard he sold the rights to his several nice models to a plastic models company that never did anything with them. I recommend his practicums.
  4. This is good to know, thanks. I just ordered some for the Winnie resin casts.
  5. Good for you making the tough decision to start over. At least you didn’t have the frame destroyed like I did. I went through a lot of planking. I don’t regret it at all, I got better each time as I’m sure you are. 3 weeks of vacation…nice!
  6. Wow, the completed model and display is vivid and simply outstanding! Well done, definitely a model to be justly proud. So what’s next?
  7. Don’t go cheap on brushes, but you don’t need high end artist level either. Buy good ones, take care of them with proper cleaning and they will last a long time. Hobby Lobby has Princeton Velvet Touch and Master’s Touch brands both of which I like. I prefer shaders and spotters, I rarely, (never really) use a round brush. I also prefer a range of sizes in both types, 20/0, 18/0, 10/0, 5/0, 3/0, 2, 4, 6, 8, even ¾ for hull paint jobs. I don’t care for spray painting, I like the look of a well applied brush and use the size/type brush I want for the job. Brushes are important, so is, and maybe more so, the quality of the acrylic (no oils on wood for me) paint. There are lots of good brands and most have their favorite. Buy small tubes/bottles of several to test and see what you like. This is my preliminary test of colors and four different brands for my upcoming Winchelsea build as example. I may be a little over the top on this topic I admit.
  8. I rigged Pegasus with every line it would have including sail handling, without including sails. It's a lot of work but worth doing at least once, it does make a compelling model to see how much rigging the real ships carried. It isn't necessary to include the sails if you want to include the sail tackle. Really your aesthetic choice on how you want to see it completed with or without.
  9. To complete my project I've added an album to the Gallery section here Once again I thank you all for the gracious comments on my completed Cheerful.
  10. A truly great model in every respect. What an amazing result of your impeccable skills. Thanks for the mention and the comment I too have enjoyed our many conversations and hope they continue in our next builds, whenever we start those. Your photography has improved by leaps and bounds. These final images are really good and as much to be proud of as the model.
  11. Exquisite detail and methods as always. Not sure I’m ready for trying hypodermic needles and certainly would never have thought of that. So, what’s next up?
  12. 2-3 at the top are full width, install those. As John noted do the garboard. Then do a tick strip midships at widest point between this installed planks. Divide that length by the width of your planks. If it’s even divide in half, if odd the one more in the upper band. Then line the hull from there following the pdf. Remember, especially as this is your first you’ll want to adjust every 2-3 planks as nothing is perfect. The goal is to more or less have equal width planks at the bow and most important have the same number of (skinny) planks at the bow as you do midship.
  13. He sort of does, it’s the art part. I went through the same process. Once you separate the bands, start on the top band and at the middle, the lines go towards the aft and bow with the flow as you visualize it. Basically it’s how and when you think it looks right. It takes some time and truthfully it’s harder to do on a small hull than it is on a larger one. It sort of comes to you. I know it’s not a great answer.
  14. You should read chucks .pdf on lining the hull, he tells you everything you need to know. The 1/64th artist tape is a simpler way than glue and string, but same thing otherwise. That stem is a real pain, mine was such cheap wood I broke it like three times. Keep in mind the bowsprit has to lay along side if it. That’s another challenge with how this model was designed, Chris told me Amati would change his designs sometimes.
  15. Good for you on the anchor buoys. I made one up using Chucks methods but it just looked too heavy, too much of the eye drawn towards it hanging on the shrouds so I dropped them. The one was a serious pain to make so I’ll be interested to see your method. My cheat on the puddening was starting with a clove hitch, I never thought about inserting it into the stock, very clever.
  16. Fascinating series of photos on rigging the tackle, thank you for providing this step by step.
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