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Everything posted by glbarlow
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A thin line applicator like I’ve shown in my log helps manage the flow and amount of CA used and keeps it off your fingers. Plus it takes very little CA to hold the plank. I run the applicator behind the plank as I press down and wind up with very little on my fingers or on on the plank. I’d be careful with acetone on the wood, you might first try gentle scraping first (one of the many uses for my dental scrapers). The Chuck method of edge bending is a big help since the plank is already formed to fit. As you said though, ultimately it comes with practice. Congratulations on finishing the planking, I hope you don’t mind a little more input but I suspect you’ll have paint runs with your taping as it is. Tamiya tape will stretch and conform to curves. I use a 6mm size to run as a single strip as much as I can, overlaying only where there is a straight line. Then a put 10mm tape above that less concerned with the line just to prevent paint going where I don’t want it, the 6mm tape curves more easily. Every overlay, especially short pieces, is an opportunity for a paint leak, paint build up, or a less than smooth line. Just a thought having recently painted Flirt’s hull.
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There are not likely any video instructions but there are plenty of build logs including mine to search and review. They’ll give you lots of help. Take your time and read the logs as well as keep up your own, it’s the best way to ask questions and get answers here on the forum.
- 19 replies
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- Lady Nelson
- Amati
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It is my hope to get it right myself some day. I agree on the painting. I had the same conclusion on Flirt. It needs the bottom and top to balance out. Besides, who doesn’t love painting waterlines. 🤣
- 345 replies
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- Duchess Of Kingston
- Vanguard Models
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Nice work on the shrouds, they can be tricky little things.
- 274 replies
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- Cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Further established my motivation (not that I need any) Now hanging in my workshop; On top is my completed Cheerful, below the draft for the Winnie class. I love the beauty of these prints.
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Of course it’s Derek like in its amazing quality, well done as always. if I may offer a lesson I learned from Chuck: In lining your belts you went to far up the bow with the curve from midship, meaning the width of the planks at the stem should have been wider starting at the first one. That would have eliminated the drop planks. As you said it won’t matter once you paint it, it will look beautifully smooth and crisp as it already now does. Superb craftsmanship as is your hallmark.
- 345 replies
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- Duchess Of Kingston
- Vanguard Models
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What’s the first? I sorta like planking, it’s one of those things that can be done really right, really wrong and every point in between.
- 855 replies
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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Well done, a great reference of when I start my Winnie next month.
- 144 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Lower Hull Complete Next up was the rudder. I did some subtle shaping - rounding off the leading edge then feathering front to back and top to bottom. Basically I followed the same approach I did with Cheerful - I think it gives the rudder a nice, and realistic, look. I’m impressed with Chris’ use of PE to simulate the pintles and gudgeons. Normally I toss kit brass in favor of thinner black card or black masking tape (used on the top of the rudder), in this case the brass was so thin and the design so clever I used it, installed it looks quite nice. It got a couple more coats of white after this photo. Then it's time to paint. Here’s the semi-finished hull. I didn’t take any photos of the process of painting it (by brush). It basically involved lots of Tamiya tape, multiple coats of Admiralty Paints Matt White, and lots of re-taping, a little scraping and touch up to ensure a clean line. I also very lightly sanded the top edge of the white to blend it in to the hull. I’m pleased with the look, the white accents the boxwood and black wales nicely I think. Once dried overnight I added a coat of WOP to seal it all up. I’ve probably mentioned this before, when I say add a coat of WOP it means applying it with a clean cloth (not brushes) and wiping it off about as fast as I wipe it on. What’s left is whatever is absorbed into the wood and lightly covering paint, leaving a near matte finish, no glossy looks for me. I painted the stem black to cover up the repairs, it is the same color as the wales, my work light is glaring off the still wet WOP in the top photo. Now to add the rest of the upper hull trim.
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I rigged Pegasus, as Bob describes, to include every rope including those for the sails based on the research I did at the time. It looks great and a model I’m proud of. It does take a lot of work managing the complexity of all those ropes in tight quarters, the end result is worth it. I had a nice build log here but it was lost in the 2013 crash, only the gallery photos survive. I think it’s a great idea, go for it.
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