Charter33

Some photographic detail ……..
 
Driving past the old work place the other day I decided to drop in to catch up with colleagues and pick up a few more of my own bits and pieces – tools etc.  Sitting at the back of a shelf in a workshop cupboard was a jar of the vinegar/ rusty iron ‘brew’ so I thought I’d produce a test piece to show the effect of the ebonising stain on wood.
 

The vinegar and rusty iron mix ready for use.
 
The oak sample was divided into three, the first left natural, the third area was pre-soaked with cold tea to increase the tannin content, and once this had dried the second and third areas were both coated with the ebonising fluid. Initially nothing seems to be happening but over the next hour or so the effect became more pronounced.
Once the wood had dried half the sample was coated with matt varnish which further enhances the effect.
 

 
 
As oak is not often an ideal wood for modelling purposes, this is what happened when the fluid was applied to a walnut off-cut from my Caldercraft Victory. As walnut has a lower tannin content than oak pre-soaking in tea is beneficial.
 

 
 
I hope this is of some interest, any task that begins with brewing tea has a lot going for it, almost as good as a cold beer once a task is completed!
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Some photographic detail ……..
 
Driving past the old work place the other day I decided to drop in to catch up with colleagues and pick up a few more of my own bits and pieces – tools etc.  Sitting at the back of a shelf in a workshop cupboard was a jar of the vinegar/ rusty iron ‘brew’ so I thought I’d produce a test piece to show the effect of the ebonising stain on wood.
 

The vinegar and rusty iron mix ready for use.
 
The oak sample was divided into three, the first left natural, the third area was pre-soaked with cold tea to increase the tannin content, and once this had dried the second and third areas were both coated with the ebonising fluid. Initially nothing seems to be happening but over the next hour or so the effect became more pronounced.
Once the wood had dried half the sample was coated with matt varnish which further enhances the effect.
 

 
 
As oak is not often an ideal wood for modelling purposes, this is what happened when the fluid was applied to a walnut off-cut from my Caldercraft Victory. As walnut has a lower tannin content than oak pre-soaking in tea is beneficial.
 

 
 
I hope this is of some interest, any task that begins with brewing tea has a lot going for it, almost as good as a cold beer once a task is completed!
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Some photographic detail ……..
 
Driving past the old work place the other day I decided to drop in to catch up with colleagues and pick up a few more of my own bits and pieces – tools etc.  Sitting at the back of a shelf in a workshop cupboard was a jar of the vinegar/ rusty iron ‘brew’ so I thought I’d produce a test piece to show the effect of the ebonising stain on wood.
 

The vinegar and rusty iron mix ready for use.
 
The oak sample was divided into three, the first left natural, the third area was pre-soaked with cold tea to increase the tannin content, and once this had dried the second and third areas were both coated with the ebonising fluid. Initially nothing seems to be happening but over the next hour or so the effect became more pronounced.
Once the wood had dried half the sample was coated with matt varnish which further enhances the effect.
 

 
 
As oak is not often an ideal wood for modelling purposes, this is what happened when the fluid was applied to a walnut off-cut from my Caldercraft Victory. As walnut has a lower tannin content than oak pre-soaking in tea is beneficial.
 

 
 
I hope this is of some interest, any task that begins with brewing tea has a lot going for it, almost as good as a cold beer once a task is completed!
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 207 – Reeving Deadeyes
 
The first picture shows deadeyes reeved on the two forward shrouds.  The other shrouds are left attached to the fixtures to avoid them getting out of order.
 

 
In the next picture the second shroud has been reeved on the port side.
 

 
Keen observers will note that the stop knot on the #1 starboard side is on the right side of the deadeye – viewed from the deck.  Alas, while this would be correct for left-handed shrouds, it is incorrect for my right-handed shrouds – a mistake I discovered only after reeving 10 shrouds.
 
In the next picture, those 10 have been redone and the two remaining shrouds completed – a few hours of avoidable rework.
 
 
 
The lanyards have been hauled up to tension the shrouds.  I stretched all this rope after laying it up.  Linen has very little stretch to it after this, so the deadeyes line up well after tensioning, as was the case in practice.
 
In practice, lanyards were hauled up using a tackle that was secured to the shroud some distance above the deadeye.  In earlier ships and perhaps in Naval ships of the time (?), tackles were hooked to burton pendants that went over the masthead before the shrouds.  Hence there are no burtons on the YA model.
 

 
The excess lanyard that is strewn about the deck will be trimmed off after it is wrapped around the shrouds and made fast.  This will be done after lashing on the iron sheer poles.  The next picture is a closer view
 

 
My dust problem is quite evident in this picture, but it would be premature to clean up at this stage, because I will make more dust when I replace the next two deadeyes and their chains to handle the larger topmast backstays.  This change was mentioned in an earlier post.
 
Finally, a view from above.
 

 
Next step is making and installing the iron sheer poles across the tops of the deadeyes and then winding up the lanyard excess.
 
Ed

@Eric,
Thx Eric for your kind words
 
And finally an update;
I FINISHED MY AGGY!!!!!
She is not on her place yet. I ordered a mahogany shelf and 4 bronze dolphins to put her on. Those things have to come from Italy, so it will take a while. But when she is in het final place, I will take more pictures.
 
Hennie
 

Ok Folks here we go with a small update. I've installed the scupper strakes and the rest of the planks to the gunwale.
 
I used a 1mm mill bit attached to my dremel to cut the scuppers before I installed them. I also pre-bent the strakes before I cut the scuppers because I was afraid that they would break if I edge bent them afterwards.
 
The top planks need to be sanded down to approximately the top of the bulkheads and then a 5.0 * 0.5 mm sheer strip needs to be fitted along the top from stern to bow where it joins up with that unique shape at the bow (see the circled picture below). No dimensions are presented in the plans so I think I'm supposed to consider it a personal touch.  This boat is beautiful and in spite of its challenges I love it.
 
The hull has been lightly sanded but needs a bit more before I add the rubbing strip and numerous wales.
 
The most challenging thing I have found so far on this build is working with 5.0 * 1.7 mm planks. Edge bending this dimension is not easy. All strakes above the scupper were edge bent without too much damage. Virtually all planks under the first 4 beneath the scupper planks are spiled. 
 
I did discover a highly sophisticated bending technology that I will now share with you. It consists of an aluminum camping pot, clamps and a heat gun. I clamp one end of a previously soaked plank to the pot, fire up the heat gun and walk it down the plank while pushing the plank down - then clamp the end. Works flawlessly. The biggest advantage is the heat gets applied equally on both sides of the plank with the pot transferring the heat to the underside of the plank. Different diameter tin cans are currently being hoarded.
 
Anyway a few pictures.

Thursday, March 30, 2017
 
More details, the job begins to get interesting and fun. Now I'm back for 4/5 days in Milan, I plan to return to Pisa next Tuesday. So do not expect news soon.
 
01 - 20170331_095742.jpg

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03 - 20170331_095735_HDR.jpg

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06 - 20170330_130908.jpg

 

The lower deck after being tree nailed. In the front there is a small widening of the planking where the ladder to the gun deck has to come.

Well, I have finally made it past the standing rigging. I recently noticed that the cleats going around the lower mast are evenly spaced, just not in the right starting position. They all need to be shifted 5-10° in one direction to match the plans. I don't see this as anything to be concerned about, but I will leave the top mast stay tackle long, should I need to move it to another cleat later. It's impossible to take the photos the way I want to show them, that is the entire image, full size and high resolution. Can't have everything, but hopefully you will get the idea.

 

Mike
 

SKID BEAMS AND THOSE LITTLE BITS AT THE TOP

I then glued the brackets to the knees with quick-drying epoxy using the pins previously mentioned. I held the skid beams in the brackets (to ensure alignment), and, when the brackets had dried, glued in the skid beams.

By the way, you'll note that I'm leaving all the wood unstained and unpainted. This is quite deliberate, as I rather like the plain look. However, I have used my home-made varnish (mineral spirits, polyurethane varnish, linseed oil) to coat all the wood parts. I may have to give a second coat (some of the pictures show the patchiness), but I'm showing it in the current state.


I added a sheer rail to the top of the rearmost frame but remain dissatisfied with the look of it. I’ll remain dissatisfied because I’m not going to change it!





I’ll have a think about mounting it on a board, but as we may be selling our house soon, am not sure when I’ll be able to do it.

Tony

Good evening everyone.
Work continues with the completion of the installation wiring Hand mast and complete hydraulic system.
I will mast mounted navigation lights , radar antena and serchlights .
A beautiful spring evening you want.

Cheers
 
Adrian
 

Hi,
 
I've been using this on the bowls and platters that I turn on a lathe for many years. Wire wool is not essential, any rusty iron will do. I personally use white vinegar. Like Captainbob explained, wiping the surface of the wood with tea (soggy teabags work too!) will make the end result darker as does applying several coats of the iron/ vinegar mix.  I find this process most effective when used on oak because of it's natural tannin content. I believe that the 'ebonising' effect is due to the chemical reaction between the tannin and the acid in the vinegar. Once dry any wood finish can be applied. I like this technique because of the penetration that can be achieved compared with paints etc. that just sit on the surface.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Some pics I found online over the years showing Trin out of her dock, in drydock, and other a-typical angles.
 
I never did get why they set her up with the yards in the set positions.


 





 

Hi,
 
today reached a point of no return, the frames are in place...

with the help of the jig and the spacers it was easier then I was expecting. Still had to redo some of the frames in order to align them properly (that is where I am now...)

I played around with patterns of the treenails to fix the frames against the keel...
 

 
The pattern on frame B seems better but from what I read it was only adopted after 1811 (Sappings System?, can anyone confirm this) and the one on frame C was the one in practice between 1710-1811.
Next is the gunport lintels and sills then sanding, lots of sanding...
 
Hugo

The mizzen mast is fully rigged.  It involved adding the topsail yard and sail.  All the lines had to be tied down while not interfering with the lines going to the small pin rail that I added for the spanker brails.  Everything looks good at this point.  There are still a couple of ‘empty’ pins, but they will be used later for various braces. I learned on my last build that braces are best left to last.  So now it is on to the main mast. 

       

Just a small Update, Of the painted Fore Mast Assemberly.
 
Still A few Blocks to add

Hi David,
 
I'm no ICT expert but ......
 
I'm sure it's possible - try moving the 'flashing' cursor to the bottom right hand corner of a picture and then tap the 'return' key a couple of times to add a few line spaces. You should then be able to type in your comments there.
 
Hope I'm not guilty of teaching you to 'suck eggs' (!) but I tend to write my text first as a word document leaving gaps for the pictures , cut and paste this into the 'reply' box and then upload the pictures into these spaces.
 
I still struggle with the frustrations these clever tech tools throw up at me at times - and I take my hat off to those clever devils who manage to annotate their pictures with arrows, coloured text etc. 
 
Hope this helps.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing with the mizenmast shroud rigging as a “test start”. This area is all new to me. Ratlines look ok – but will get better. Yes - as has been SO noted very repetitive indeed. And I’ve barely started. So;
 Removed those totally wrong futtock plates and added hooks (to be painted flat black).
 But the following bit is confusing; need to think this bit out.
 Installed the first futtock stave. Should be tarred, but left it as is just to highlight details. But here is where is gets more involved.  I believe that my futtock shrouds are too large. Should have used a smaller diameter rope. Attaching these three shrouds to the stave will make for too “thick” a look (after spooling/tying these to the shrouds).
I think that I will remove a strand from each at the point of attachment; then wrap them over the staves. Also note the 1/10th photo (during its construction) it appears that these shrouds should also be split and attached in two places. Noted that this photo is for the main mast. Hmmm. I will do that for the center of the three shrouds that I am presently working on. 
 Then again, I may (since I have to remove all of those lower cap plates just re-rope these first three and start again. Just sharing my frustrations (J)))
 
Cheers,

 

The cross section is finished.  I made the crutches from brass square stock and painted them black and then installed them on the gangways.  I then installed the gangways on the cross section along with the ladders.  Put a coat of wipe on poly on and attached it to the base with three short pieces of 1/16" brass rod.  I also made a case to go over the model.  The base and case is made from pine.  I have apply cherry stain to the base and I will also stain the case with cherry.  The case will be attached to the base with some 1/16" brass rod to keep it from sliding around.  Anyways, here are the pictures.  I will post some of the case once that is completed.

Hi,
 
I've been using this on the bowls and platters that I turn on a lathe for many years. Wire wool is not essential, any rusty iron will do. I personally use white vinegar. Like Captainbob explained, wiping the surface of the wood with tea (soggy teabags work too!) will make the end result darker as does applying several coats of the iron/ vinegar mix.  I find this process most effective when used on oak because of it's natural tannin content. I believe that the 'ebonising' effect is due to the chemical reaction between the tannin and the acid in the vinegar. Once dry any wood finish can be applied. I like this technique because of the penetration that can be achieved compared with paints etc. that just sit on the surface.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Hi Mates,


 
Well this update, for me is actually mostly satisfying.


 
Built two more platforms, and caps

Installed all of the topmasts

Started some ratlines

Made another mouse for the mainmast stay.

Served the mainmast stay, and the block rope on the foremast

Re-worked a Corel triple, and double block

Many new blocks tweaked and attached.

Attached the double pulley at the base of the foremast for the mainmast stay, and attached the triple block.


 
===================


 
A few Grrrrrrs, of course, main topmast sheave cutout should have been angled inward, lack of foresight.


 
Main cap doesn’t quite “sit” right

Mizenmast cap is too close to its platform

Mouse should be, as you know, a woven affair.


 
What I made is obviously incorrect. I saw how to do it correctly on another’s build log. Hmm my skill set not there.


 
Always nice of you to drop by, and thanks for the encouraging notes – much appreciated.

Cheers,


 

 

 

 

 

Hi,
 
I've been using this on the bowls and platters that I turn on a lathe for many years. Wire wool is not essential, any rusty iron will do. I personally use white vinegar. Like Captainbob explained, wiping the surface of the wood with tea (soggy teabags work too!) will make the end result darker as does applying several coats of the iron/ vinegar mix.  I find this process most effective when used on oak because of it's natural tannin content. I believe that the 'ebonising' effect is due to the chemical reaction between the tannin and the acid in the vinegar. Once dry any wood finish can be applied. I like this technique because of the penetration that can be achieved compared with paints etc. that just sit on the surface.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Coppering process.

Hi,
 
The lining of the gun ports was one task where it really paid to do some homework and invest time reviewing the excellent build logs available through this site.  I would never have thought of adding balsa strips behind the edges of the ports to increase the gluing area.

I went for 2 x 2 mm strips and produced this simple aid to help get them in position.


 


 
It’s based on Gil’s example (thank you!) but rather than using a spirit level to ensure that horizontal pieces were correctly positioned I added a simple ‘clinometer’.  With the hull leveled, when the plumb line matched the vertical line on the plastic disc the strips were correctly aligned.
 

 
 

 
This device was flipped 180 degrees to deal with the strips at the top of each port. Made from whatever I could find in the workshop it’s a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but it does the job.

The lower and middle rows of gun ports were now straight forward to line with pre-painted strips. The gap between the ‘holding pins’ and the wooden strip was just right to enable this tool to be used grip and tweek the angle of the horizontal strips of walnut to their final position.


 

 
A second simple and very effective tool I made was this one:


 

 
 
Its purpose is to help manouvre  the cut strips onto place and ensure that the front edge of the lining is set back the required 1 mm. Basically a 5” length of 4 mm dia. brass tube, flattened both ends. For the depth gauge a scrap of wood was glued the appropriate distance back from the end, and the 90 degree return at the other end was useful for pulling strips that were too far in back into place.


 

 
Balsa strips in  place.
 
The ports on the upper gun deck were the most challenging. For the side pieces I resorted to making individual templates to the correct size and then using these to mark out the required shape onto the wood.


 

 
Starboard side is now complete ….. 
 

 
........ but I think a bit of tidying up of the workbench would be a good idea before tackling the other side!….


 


 
Cheers for now,


 
Graham.

You take model ship building to a whole new level Ed.   I am totally in awe of the skills and detail your work shows  - quite simply inspirational.
 
Thank you.
 
Graham