DelF

Just seen this and wanted to echo everyone’s congratulations. I’m very impressed, especially as this is just your second build - and super-impressed that you completed it in just over a year. Derek

I'm starting this log as Chuck asked us to in his introduction to the project, but it will have to be a place holder for a while as I finish other builds. Having said that, I'm looking forward to testing my skills on scratch building as much of this project as possible, with the probable exception of the boxwood carvings and figurehead which look too good to resist! The first step will be to persuade dockyard officialdom (she who holds the pursestrings) that I need a scroll saw. I used a jeweller's piercing saw to produce the frames for a 1:48 pinnace for my current Royal Caroline build but that's not an experience I want to repeat on a larger model. Good luck to all the folk who will be beating me out of the starting blocks - I'll watch your logs with interest. Derek

Hi Kurt I'm in a similar position, having renewed just this Wednesday. If I'd known about the offer I'd have gone for the two year option. Thanks in advance if you can help out. Derek

I picked up the saw yesterday (carefully - it really does weigh around 30 pounds!). I must say it has lived up to my expectations so far, both in terms of build quality and performance. I tried a few tests cuts when I got it home and was very impressed with the accuracy. For example, when I rip cut a strip from a board, the difference in the width of the two ends of the strip was no more than 0.01mm/.0004". I also tested the micrometer stop. The saw is fitted with the metric version, so I measured my strip, moved the fence 0.1mm cut again and remeasured. My digital micrometer reckoned I'd taken 0.09mm off. One hundredth of a millimeter difference is probably within the reading error using a micrometer and in any case I can live with that level of accuracy for model making. Today I used the saw to make a display base out of a solid oak plank. The machine had no problem at all ripping and cross cutting through 18mm/0.71" hardwood. I think I'll follow Bob's suggestion. The saw came with two carbide blades which are absolutely fine, but with 0.055"/1.4mm kerf they turn a lot of expensive timber into sawdust. Also, although the finish on the cut surfaces is perfectly acceptable, it is not quite the mirror finish I get with the Preac, so I'll probably get a couple of thinner slitting blades. Either that, or I'll pick up Bob's other suggestion and get some arbor adaptors from Jim Byrnes as I believe I can get suitable blades in the UK. Bottom line though - this is definitely my new favorite toy tool. Derek

Hi Mark I haven't sourced any for the Byrnes saw yet. I've had a hard time finding any blades for the Preac - the main problem being their small diameter. I managed to get one from Amazon recently (https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-5mm-Thickness-Circular-Slitting-Blade/dp/B009XPCT02/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Sourcingmap+blade&qid=1559927411&rnid=1642204031&s=diy&sr=1-1). I've also had success with arceurotrade.co.uk - just search for slitting saws. Hope this helps, and thanks again for highlighting the eBay listing! Derek

Many thanks to No Idea for posting the link to the ebay auction. I was the only bidder and am now the proud owner of a Byrnes saw for the starting price of £450. Or at least I will be when I pick it up - just a 140 mile round trip sometime in the next few days. My old Preac saw still works, but it's no longer in production and I find it very hard to source replacement blades in the UK. I've been hankering (lusting!) after a Byrnes for ages but have always been put off by the shipping and import costs. They were horrendous for the Preac many years ago, and I hate to think what they would be now, so I was delighted to see one listed locally. I can't wait to get working with it, and am going to start by re-reading all the tips and advice on the forum. There were a couple of bidders for the thickness/sander which went for £280.01 - slightly more than the opening price but still reasonable. That auction ended an hour or so before the saw auction, so I was anticipating at least as much interest for the latter and was bracing myself and my wallet for a potential bidding war . So I was pleasantly surprised when I put in the only offer. Perhaps all my fellow UK modellers already have Byrnes saws! Off to bed now, very happy 😁 Derek

Just caught up with your completed project. Many congratulations on another superb model. As ever, your logs serve as a great source of inspiration and ideas for the rest of us. Best wishes Derek

Many thanks for posting the link. My new Kunz plane arrived today, so your message was very timely. After your first post I’d tried to google ‘accurizing Kunz planes’ to no avail, so I am very grateful you came back with the link. Derek

I can't see the link....is it just me? Derek

Thanks for this tip Bob - just found on fleabay for less than £20, post free. I'll add to my collection of miniature planes, including ones by Veritas. My excuse is that the expensive planes were gifts from others, so to use your phrase, I can still claim to have more brains than money! Derek

Hello Woodeater Great blocks, but I can't find translations of cumier-wood and backaut - do you know the english words? Derek

I agree. It's the simplest, quickest and best blackening solution I've tried. Derek

Brilliant - just what I was after!

Hi B.E. As I've mentioned before, I often dip into your Pegasus log for ideas and inspiration. As my own project nears completion (well, just the running rigging to go so it must be nearly done?!) I've been reminded of your display case. I'm also looking for a clear case with no obstructing frames. My own research turned up a few potential suppliers in the UK, amongst which I thought Display Cases International looked the likeliest. Before I take the plunge, would you mind sharing your supplier and your impression of their product (it certainly looks great in your photos)? Thanks Derek

Great description of your shackle technique Bob. As a 'toolaholic' I've had a set of transfer punches sitting around in my workshop for years looking for a use - now I've got one. Thanks! Derek

Hi Phil Thank you for taking the time for such a considered and comprehensive explanation. I really appreciate it. I’m attracted to the notion that 3D designing can be used to generate accurate 2D drawings and can reveal problems that might otherwise be missed, so I think I’m prepared to start out on the steep learning curve you mention. Looking at your distinction between CAD programs and drawing programs, I believe Fusion 360 falls into the former category so I think I’ll give it a go in the first instance - there are some good-looking YouTube videos that should get me started. Once I get past the stage of unconscious incompetence and can make meaningful comparisons I’ll certainly have a look at DesignCad 3D as well. Thanks again, and have a great Christmas and a happy New Year. Derek

Hi Phil I was fascinated to find your log. The Albatros was the first 'proper' ship model I attempted, in the early 2000s. I'd previously completed a Chinese junk which was more of an ornament than a serious ship model, but at least it whetted my appetite. Although I hadn't discovered MSW back then I was dissatisfied with the basic kit and attempted a few minor modifications - for example planking the inside of the bulwarks (a plain plywood strip in my version), making proper parrels for the gaff and boom, and adding some detail to the binnacle. However these mods were based largely on my imagination and limited maritime knowledge, unlike the careful research you have done. I was particularly impressed by your approach to the pivot gun. Like you, I was also struck by the incongruity of a standard carriage mounted gun pointing straight at the foremast, but to my regret I just let it go in the hope visitors wouldn't notice. I had previously admired your 3D work on the USS Oklahoma City and wondered if such software would have any applications in regular modelling. Your work on the pivot gun answers that! Would you mind saying what package you use? I recently acquired the free version of Fusion 360 and wondered if that would be suitable. I know I would make a much better job of it now, having spent a few years admiring and learning from the MSW community, but I still like my old model of the Albatros and it is still on display. All part of the learning process. I'm sure yours will be a real gem, especially given the care and planning you are putting in to it. Thanks for posting. Derek

This post from EdT's Young America log is a great tutorial on block making, showing what can be achieved with hand tools (and a great deal of skill!) https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/&do=findComment&comment=534128 Derek

In this context wicking refers to the ability of a liquid - in this case thin CA - to be drawn into a substance by capillary action. Just as the wick in a candle draws melted wax to be burned. Derek

Hi Richmond. Keith Julier wrote about three volumes of the Period Ship Handbook. Each was a compilation of articles he wrote for Model Boat magazine (if memory serves - I haven’t access to my library just now). Each article describes how he built a popular kit. The Kit Builders Manual brings together the techniques he describes in the other books. I found all the books very useful as a beginner - in fact I was inspired to buy Panart's Royal Caroline after reading the chapter on the kit. I found Julier’s style very helpful for a novice, with plenty of photos (albeit in black and white) and clear descriptions of necessary steps and potential pitfalls. I also liked the fact that he suggests minor modifications you can make to enhance the build. For example, on the Caroline he shows how you can use the kit material to make the bilge pumps more authentic. This certainly whetted my appetite for further “kit bashing”! In summary, I would certainly recommend the Kit Builders Manual as a good starting point. If you have a particular model or models in mind to build, let me know and I’ll check my copies of the other books to see if they feature. Derek

Saw your message this morning, downloaded the journal, skimmed through it, liked it, and decided to join the NRG for the first time. Great stuff! Derek

I live in the UK and received my book today just over a week after placing the order - excellent service. Derek

Following on from Jim's idea above, I tried the following method for producing a length of served line with an eye at each end: One piece of dowel is a tight fit in the RH gear and the other is a sliding fit in the left gear. In this crude but effective first go, the LH dowel is kept in place at the desired position by a combination of a rubber sleeve and a small clip. You simply wind a piece of line between the hooks - as many times as needed to give the right final size - then serve as normal. Here's the result: As you can see, I messed up one of the eyes (my eyes let me down and I trimmed the wrong threads!) but as the eyes are hidden under the bowsprit I let that one go. Just shows how versatile the Serv-o-matic is. Derek

My first model was made entirely with the use of hand tools, and I'm sure if I'd carried on like that I'd have continued to enjoy the hobby. However I've always believed (to misquote Robert Louis Stevenson) that the journey is at least as important as the destination. Over the last 10 years or so that I've been ship modelling I've really enjoyed learning new skills and techniques, and getting to grips with new hand and power tools. On occasion I've had to justify the cost of a new machine by convincing the family finance watchdog that it would come in handy round the house. To my surprise, that has actually proven true on a significant number of occasions - for example turning up replacement parts for showers and garage door mechanisms on my lathe and mill (Chuck's Rope Rocket and Serv-o-matic were harder to justify on those grounds, but fortunately much less expensive!). Each to his and her own though - you only need to look through this forum to appreciate that there is no 'best' way to create great models. Derek

Oops! Apologies for my presumption. It’s probably surprising that any of us obsessive hobbyists actually have partners that are prepared to put up with us. Derek