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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Who is to say whether there were x or y strakes of deck plank? But it does point out the value of marking the strakes out before laying them!
  2. druxey
    That is a lovely job you've done on a difficult part of the build, Ian. However, I'd question why you would want to use poly finish on the model?
  3. druxey
    Is that wheel a handwheel by any chance?
  4. druxey
    Lovrly work as usual. Bitao!
  5. druxey
    My 'trick' - if trick there be to it - is to rubber cement a blank strip of the maximum thickness of the molding onto a carrier sheet of hardwood. This carrier acts as a depth stop when the molding is fully developed. The profile is also wave-free.
  6. druxey
    Welcome, Evan! Check out Marine Modelers of Niagara in the 'clubs' section on this site.
  7. druxey
    When using white glue on a thin piece, always dampen the opposite side to prevent curling. Your model is looking very nice at this point.
  8. druxey
    Oh, you youngsters!
  9. druxey
    He's explaining to the other men what a fiddle block looks like....
  10. druxey
    Just catching up. Looking good so far, Håkan!
  11. druxey
    As in any kit, there are some compromises. The builder can kit-bash to his or her heart's content!
  12. druxey
    Have you tried elastic bands?
  13. druxey
    In my limited experience with stains, basswood is not a good candidate. Stain uptake tends to be blotchy. However, you could experiment on scrap. (This is good for trying out any new finish!) See what you think. I just saw: That shows what can happen!
  14. druxey
    Clarification: I was only referring to the angles of the mullions between the lights (windows). I was not criticizing the width of the outer ones!
  15. druxey
    Well, the fact that you built and finished three models very nicely says a lot about you! Many beginners never even finish one model. Well done.
  16. druxey
    Basswood can be 'undented' by repeated application of water using a brush just in the depressed area. The wood fibers re-expand with moisture. Lightly sand when fully dry.
  17. druxey
    Terrific detail work, Keith.
  18. druxey
    In the late 18th century, contracts were indeed 'boilerplate'; printed forms with spaces to insert specific dimensions and details.
  19. druxey
    There are indeed some extremely talented lady ship modelers here. (Look up Toni and Doris!) Although we cannot possibly replace your father, we can provide hints and help when requested. You'll find this a very supportive community, Welcome aboard!
  20. druxey
    For quoting brief excerpts from others' work, with a citation, falls within the 'fair use' clause, I believe.
  21. druxey
    Just found this interesting thread. The handwriting and ink splotches on the log page attest to rough weather! I take my hat off to you, George, for being able to decipher and transcribe that writing.
  22. druxey
    Another landmark day! Have fun fairing up tomorrow.
  23. druxey
    Welcome back, Mark! I hope that you feel fully recovered. Steel's text (page 54, Naval Architecture) reads: RAILS. The long narrow pieces of fir or oak, with mouldings struck on them, which are fastened, or sometimes wrought from solid plank, as ornaments to the ship's sides, and also at the head or stern. The principal are as follows: The lower rail on the side, named the Waist-rail; and the next above it, the Sheer-rail, which are generally placed well with the sheer or top-timber line; the rails next above the Sheer-rail are called Drift-Rails, and the rails above the plank-sheer the Fife-rails.... In the list of errata at the back of the book (unnumbered page) there is no mention of any correction to this entry.
  24. druxey
    Bending and fitting those coamings is a tricky business, but it looks as if you've done a great job on them, Dan. Some filler is often necessary!
  25. druxey
    One plank at a time is the best strategy! Line the clamp/clothes peg with scraps of sandpaper as a non-slip option.

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