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Everything posted by druxey
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Good things take time. However, I would have thought that you could find another project to work on while glue sets up. More crew members, perhaps?
- 740 replies
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- Tudor
- restoration
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The next step after adding the risers is to prepare for the inwales. For this, the tops of all the futtocks have to be cut down by 2". To do this without splitting the plank is tricky. A very sharp small chisel is used and the waste wood removed incrementally. It's a slow process!
- 433 replies
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Well, finally new progress to report! It took three tries before I was satisfied with the risers. I rubber cemented two layers of 1" thick (scale!) stock, cut and sanded the convex curve, ran the beading on both sides of the assembly and then milled the concave side so that the pieces were of uniform width. They are now being glued in.
- 433 replies
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Symmetry
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Butt blocks are used where frames are widely spaced. With narrow spaces the butts were always on the frames themselves. -
Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Might I suggest using heat to bend your planks? I use a temperature-controlled iron and wet the wood first. The iron must be hot, but not so hot as to scorch the wood. It's quick , too!- 475 replies
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Well, the switch arrived today. I spent some time not only installing it, but thoroughly cleaning out the fine dust adhering to the inner works of the saw. One hurdle was the electrical connectors to the switch. I've not come across the particular crimped type used here in Canada, so had to do a small workaround. All is well; the saw fired up again! The next posting will be a real progress one again.
- 433 replies
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Depending on the glue you used, it can be removed. With white or yellow glue some rubbing alcohol on a brush with soften it and you can remove the softened blob carefully using a pointed tool. Be aware that the paint will be removed as well, so you'll need to repaint after.
- 85 replies
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- First Build
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I thought it time to post a small update for you. The package containing the new switch for my saw is somewhere in the Province of Ontario now, according to USPS tracking. So, this is really a non-update. I debated the hot-wiring solution suggested. However, the idea of reaching over a running saw to pull the plug held very little appeal. So we wait....
- 433 replies
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NRG Capstan Project
druxey replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Read the instructions? Surely you jest! Seriously, I'm always amazed at folk who blaze full steam ahead, torpedoes be damned. Hopefully builders of this very nice piece will heed you. It looks like a very nice project to do. Well done, Toni! -
Hey, that is a very respectable result for first time. Don'r be too critical of yourself. The skills you've now picked up will really help with your next model. Well done!
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- First Build
- Model Shipways
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Thanks, Bob. However, I think I can wait as I've other paying work to re-rig on the bench as well right now!
- 433 replies
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Isn't it a relief to move on from framing? Your lower ceiling planks look very good.- 475 replies
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Update: There will be a hiatus in the workshop, hopefully only for a few days. The switch on my Byrnes' saw failed - after only 14 years of hard work! Jim and Donna have sent out a replacement very promptly so it's in the USPS service - somewhere.... Until it arrives I can't cut more 1/64" leaves of wood for the boat's risers. Dommage.
- 433 replies
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The stretchers on this boat appear to be fixed, Bob, and not adjustable. Other boats had a double notch or other arrangement (see my Greenwich Hospital barge) to allow for short or tall rowers.
- 433 replies
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Thanks, Pat. The model will be unpainted with a natural wood look to show off construction. I used to put a dilute coat of sanding sealer on my models but no longer do. The 'finish' is simply fine sanded and scraped.
- 433 replies
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Next are the risers; the plank that the thwarts rest on. It was difficult to determine their shape as it is hard to measure vertical heights inside the boat. I 'proved' the spiled shape in card first. The risers will be cut from ¾" thick stock. Keen-eyed folk will have noticed that some metalwork has been made and fitted while there is still easy access to the ends and bottom of the model.
- 433 replies
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Muzzle flare on the small one looks much better, Kevin!
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Thank you for your encouraging words, Joe. Replicating these details is a challenge that I set myself as the prototype is still extant. The cleats and stretchers are now installed.
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Today's update be more 'tell' than 'show'. The stretchers for the feet of the rowers are located in notches along the outer sides of the footboards (see photo, courtesy Eberhard). These are rather small items. Each is under ¾" long and the 'tails' 1/64" square. I prepared a length of Castello and cut off ¾" long pieces. These were sandwiched together on edge using PVA glue. (Rubber cement does not have sufficient shear strength for milling operations.) The laminated pieces were then glued to a carrier piece of wood. Held in a machine vise, the profile was carefully machined on the mill. The assembly was then immersed in isopropanol for 24 hours to separate the individual pieces. While this was soaking, a length of wood was prepared for the stretchers. The upper edges of these are chamfered at 45 degrees, as can be seen in the phooto.
- 433 replies
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