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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Thank you, Keith, and all who have dropped by. The last strake is on now and ready for the heart-stopper; getting the shell off the plug! No matter how careful, there is always some battle damage One simply hopes that it will be minimal, but one never knows. Once I've screwed up my courage, the frame extensions will be cut, the stem freed from its constraints and then.... Stay tuned!
  2. druxey
    While Petersson's book is very helpful, there are some details that are post 1780. He faithfully took a specific contemporary model as his example, but I believe that some of the rigging was replaced or augmented at some point. Martingales are definitely from after 1794 (Lees) and double ones from the post 1815 era.
  3. druxey
    You are probably accurate to the way the actual cog was!
  4. druxey
    Well, Allan, I've painted both directly on and off models. The latter is much easier, particularly in places like lower counters. I've also used bond paper. It should not deteriorate, as it is sealed on both sides once glued to the model. I don't know of any really thin, smooth-surfaced 100% rag paper. Perhaps someone else does. For wales, etc, I've used black leather dye. It's hard to get a perfectly even surface if the planks are pre-dyed then added to the model. I've used the strategy of applying and smoothing the wales before any other planking, so if a little dye should go over the edge it doesn't ruin adjacent planking. Dye is very good at seeping or wicking under any masking tape!
  5. druxey
    If you insist! Well, there are at least two solutions. The easiest would be to carefully remove the broken end and reglue it to the rest of the plank. If there is enough wood left on the sheet you could mark out and cut a new plank, using the web as the pattern.
  6. druxey
    Isopropyl alcohol works on both white and yellow glue. The trick is patience. It takes time (sometimes up to a day) and multiple applications of solvent to soften the glue. Never force a joint apart - but you know that already.
  7. druxey
    As your own master shipwright, you are on your own for this one. You will need to make your own decision. What you have learned is that you must check frequently for cumulative error as you go along, so you don't make this discovery at the end of framing.
  8. druxey
    Another two strakes completed. The next strake will be the sheer strake. A smooth sheer line will make or break the model. Speaking of breaking, the moment of truth nears; that of removing the shell from the plug. From past experience there will be loud cracking nosies - heart-stopping! - and usually a few planks 'spring' a little, but it is all repairable. We shall see....
  9. druxey
    All hail isopropanol! Rescued yet again.
  10. druxey
    Hubac: there are several museum examples of models where friezework on paper was applied to the planking. From experience, I can attest to how much easier this is than to paint directly on the model!
  11. druxey
    Mark: I agree that the solid line/hatched line is another way to delineate a scarph joint (without the 'X'). Also, that there are regrettably few early examples of disposition of frame.
  12. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Kirk!
  13. druxey
    Mark: Certainly some toptimbers were scarphed, but I repeat that I've not seen too many delineated this way (with the 'X') on disposition of frame drawings. The ones that show this are later rather than earlier.
  14. druxey
    The old-time model-makers were as crazy as we are, it seems!
  15. druxey
    I see you did that that hard way: placing the fenders over the moldings rather than cutting the moldings to butt the sides of the fenders! The fit looks perfect.
  16. druxey
    And another strake completed. As these strakes now run out over the transom, they are easier to fit. On closer inspection of the plans the uppermost strake, interrupted by the tholes, is actually a wash strake. It will be fitted after the shell has been removed from the plug. This means only three more strakes to go.
  17. druxey
    Those joints were normally chocked at that time period. Chocks are more economic; not only do they uses up offcuts of timber but, with thoughtful layout, the individual floors and futtocks could be a little shorter than if they had been scarphed.
  18. druxey
    Just catching up, Allan. Very ship-shape and Bristol fashion! Well done.
  19. druxey
    Five strakes down; halfway there. If progress seems slow, it is. One strake can take an hour or two to complete. Each plank has to be spiled, marked out, cut, the joints refined, the free edge smoothed and then shaped and glued. After gluing the plank often needs finessing using the hot iron and water. Once the strake is complete, it is carefully sanded almost down to the finished surface.
  20. druxey
    It all depends on country, era, etc.
  21. druxey
    Good luck finding a new home. We'll await your return! Nice modification to those figures. It's hard to realize how small they really are.
  22. druxey
    Yes, there is a slight concavity in the newest strake, Eberhard, but nothing extreme.
  23. druxey
    So, another day, another strake on each side. Today it's strake 4. The junction at stern post and transom needed care. (I think Eberhard was wondering about this.) The plank runs were arranged so that the seam between two strakes would run into this junction. Another 'have to think well ahead' strategy. I also cut away the plug for safety here. (Photo order reversed!) Yes, Maury, I wash the planks well with a wet brush and mop up excess glue before it dries. In places such as the keel/garboard junction, I also use a dental tool (elevator) shaped like a mini chisel to clean out the angle. Thanks for stopping by.
  24. druxey
    It's his mast-erpiece, Steven! Actually, it looks like a clip of some kind.
  25. druxey
    Good things take time....

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