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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Well, I see that Christmas has arrived early! Use them in good health, Mark. I never got sharpening instructions with mine. What does Mihail recommend?
  2. You should already have some semi-scratch or scratch building experience, mugje. Small power equipment helps: a mini circular saw and scroll saw make things go easier than using hand tools alone. Be prepared for a few 'do-overs'; this is normal even for experienced builders. The book is a step-by-step one, with lots of photos and diagrams as well as the plans mentioned above. A copy of The Fully Framed Model, Volume I is also very helpful if you are not already familiar with 18th century ship construction.
  3. What simple, innovative and effective techniques, Gary! Great result.
  4. That's true, but seen at a later time when the steeve of the bowsprit was less steep and the foot of the sail was much closer to the water.
  5. I believe that only modern (i.e. late 19th century on) rings are recessed. The earlier contemporary English models do not show this feature.
  6. Welcome! There is (or was) a nice maritime museum in Valletta that I've been to some years ago. Is it still there?
  7. Just big enough to slip a hand through. Some rings were round, others triangular. Not a 'dumb question' at all!
  8. Did you have to do much thole-thearching before correcting things? (Sorry, Steven, but I can never resist!) Well done for revising them.
  9. Is it possible that you know someone who can cut wood to size for you? Are there other model-makers in your area that might have the equipment to do this for you or, if you are familiar with using power equipment, might have some time to use it? Well-seasoned, straight-grained wood should be dimensionally stable enough for your purpose.
  10. I don't understand why you feel that you need to laminate up a keel. Using solid wood, held straight in a building jig, should be more than adequate. Am I missing something here?
  11. Nicely done, Dafi. Who is the heated shot intended for?
  12. Glad that you spotted the reproduction shrinkage early: this is a common issue even with good printers.
  13. I believe that the DB 200 takes a 12 x 1 mm metric thread.
  14. Allan: Riding bitts, as their name implies, were always used when at anchor. This would place a lot of strain on the bitts in a forward direction, further securing the cross-piece in its score as well as abrading it. The wear piece would be presumably simply nailed on for frequent replacement and the main cross-piece less often, but must have also worn on ts upper and lower sides. Anchor handling would not require use of riding bitts unless there was a problem bringing the cable aboard.
  15. I take an alternative approach and file out the half-holes almost to size in the hawse timbers before assembling them on the model. This automatically puts the holes at the correct upward angle and parallel to the long axis of the model. Also, there is zero risk of tear-out by drilling. Ah, well - on your next model!
  16. As a matter of interest, the photo in Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, Plate 23, shows the displaced cross-piece due to WW2 bomb blast. This would have been unlikely had the piece been bolted to the pins.
  17. It's a form of drawplate, Jim. It would work really well on a long-grain wood like bamboo. Usually drawplates are the moving part (hence the name!), with the wood stock held stationary.
  18. Don't drop and lose the Euro coin inside, please! Lovely work and progress, Giampiero.
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