druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Sorry to read of your tumble, Alan (I'm just catching up on your previous posts). Hope all is well now. If you can manage a pair of cant frames in a day, that's pretty good progress. For fixation to the building board, I use captive nuts in the keel/rising wood and bolts from below. These eventually end up securing the model to the pedestals on the display board. -
Basically, with odd numbers, the first shroud pair to go on goes up one side, splits with a cut splice over the mast head, and then down the other side. The rest go on in pairs to the same side alternately, starboard pair first, then port, etc.
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She looks very nice at this point in construction, Clare. The upward sweep to the stern is very elegant.
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Now, isn't that silly: I assumed that there was already an inclined plane between the two halves of the jig! Nice architectural model story, Mark.
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Jack: I've just come across your post. What you show on the different framing disposition plans are various ways to either shift or cast frame timbers so that the spacing of toptimbers between the ports is correct. (The shipwright was not allowed to cut into the sides of toptimbers to form the edges of the ports - a strength issue.) There were many methods of doing this in use. Some plans show the spacer blocks that were used where the frame parts were bolted together (your second example). This was done throughout, but was only indicated on one frame pair on the plan.
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That's an ingenious method for getting the plank set-back to form the rebate, Mark. I'm glad that it's working out for you. Looking good!
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Nice progress, Keith, even though the deck looks like a bad case of measles at the moment!
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Drilling 2mm Brass Rod
druxey replied to spill50's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Also, soften the brass first! -
Tailing deck beams
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The practice of alternating beam ends and 'mouthing' or the boring of air holes is described and illustrated in The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, Volume I, pages 256 and 262. -
I find I use elastic band fixation methods more as well these days. Very nice looking finish on your deck there, Keith!
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Also, with the heavier metal, there is no 'chatter'.
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It is never a good idea to display a good model in a window, for all the reasons mentioned. Heat alone will differentially affect one side of the model, leading to hull distortion, shrunk wood and eventual structural failure. This is before even considering UV degradation of rigging!.
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Tailing deck beams
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Yes, too bad that detail will be hidden. However, a photo record before you assemble the parts.... -
Your professional experience certainly shows! Lovely work, Yoshka.
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Dock where HMS Beagle was dismantled found?.
druxey replied to bruce d's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Perhaps....- 1 reply
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10 at a time, Keith? That takes a special talent. I bow to your superior breakage rate. Vaddoc: could miniature bolts such as from Scale Hardware do the trick for you?
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Thanks and congratulations to the organizers of this year's Conference. It was a great weekend (apart from balky A/V equipment!)
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Tailing deck beams
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I tend to think that the dovetail was only the depth of the let-down on the clamp, as Mark suggests. -
Congratulations on this, Ben. Now, you get back to your Pegasus!
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All hail, isopropanol!
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Also love your 'handle'. I laughed out loud when I read it. Welcome! Good for you both. I'm sure you'll find the support you need here on this site.
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