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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Both those weathered looks seem fine on camera, even if the first was unintended!
  2. druxey
    I wonder whether a piece of tempered glass, shattered, would provide granules of the scale size?
  3. druxey
    Every model is a learning process and it looks as if you are doing well.
  4. druxey
    Don't laugh at these batchelors: many if these rather eccentric but highly skilled men men were PTSD sufferers from WWII. This was their self-prescribed therapy.
  5. druxey
    Are those wooden plugs in the hawse holes?
  6. druxey
    It was articles on builders like him in The Model Engineer that inspired me as a kid.
  7. druxey
    Welcome back and enjoy your new home, Ben!
  8. druxey
    If you can cut the joints with a very sharp chisel and avoid sanding, you may get better results. If you sand a piece in the vise you will 'rock'. It is almost impossible to get a flat, level joint surface using that method.
  9. druxey
    Taking shape quickly! And a lovely shape, too.
  10. druxey
    Scraping moldings: some tricks I found helped me: 1) Glue the blank strip down on a solid backing piece. I use PVA white glue. This may be soaked off in 95% isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) when complete. 2) Make the strip no deeper than the deepest dimension of the finished molding. 3) Scrape lightly and gently. If you apply pressure, the scraper will wander with the wood grain. As the molding develops, you can add a bit more pressure. 4) When the blank edge of the scraper runs against the backing board, you are at the correct depth and the scraper will not bite in deeper.
  11. druxey
    Lovely gratings, Alan. As long as the finished look is right, no-one will notice any little cheats along the way! I prefer to rubber cement my sandpaper to a flat surface rather than tape.
  12. druxey
    That looks very sweet indeed, Mark! You might want to varnish or paint the lead to prevent future deterioration.
  13. druxey
    For scuppers: My method (waterway in place) is, first accurate mark-out both inboard and out. Drill with a very small diameter bit from both sides. Hopefully the holes will meet - at least partially. Then progressively enlarge using larger diameter bits and needle files, making minor corrections as you go until you reach the diameter of the scupper. I've not drilled hawseholes in years. I file the half-holes in the hawse pieced before assembly. Again, I make them slightly under final size, then file them out once planking is complete.
  14. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Marcel!
  15. druxey
    Please read the planking tutorial: chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf It will answer all your questions!
  16. druxey
    Rubber cement will not distort paper or tracing vellum as will any glue with water content.
  17. druxey
    All looks fair and square!
  18. druxey
    There are several tutorials on this site on how to plank. Any of these will answer your question, as well as Chuck's contribution: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/
  19. druxey
    Interesting discussion! BTW, 3DSW, I think you meant 'pinnace', not 'pinnacle'. Worn paintwork looks great.
  20. druxey
    Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy!
  21. druxey
    Superb work, as ever!
  22. druxey
    Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.)
  23. druxey
    Welcome aboard! Check the 'Important Ship Model Club News' area on this site: Model Shipwrights of Niagara. The meetings are online as well as in-person.
  24. druxey
    Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate. You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.
  25. druxey
    Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams.

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