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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Yes, wood movement can be a problem. Can you humidify in winter and dehumidify in summer to keep the RH reasonable constant? That stain looks like a water-stain. If it will be exposed in the finished model you could try to damp sponge it off. Lovely work on that wale! -
Dear Dick, you wrote: "I fear that a nautical academic would regard my model as a good speculative decorative model and no more." Yes, there is speculation involved, but it's based on your research and reasoning, so I disagree - it IS more! I think many of us are awaiting the findings in the Black Sea cache with interest. In the meantime, I think you are doing a fine job.
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For a 'non-carver', those tafferel figures are really very respectable! I wish my first carving efforts had looked anywhere as good as those!
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Coming along nicely, Mark. It just occurred to me (duh!) that one could install the black strake first; then one would not need to remove the batten above the wale.
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Neatly done, Maurys. "Anti-fraying liquid"? Is this a secret formula concocted in your laboratory?
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Good to see you back. That first photo make you look as if you live in - oh, yes, you do live Down Under! Those figures look great now they are painted.
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Well, one opinion, for what it's worth: ratlines are part of the standing rigging, therefore are tarred. It's possible that sailors' hands and feet acquired some of this stuff when climbing the rigging, so were referred to as - wait for it! - 'tars'.
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Joints eventually 'read' through either paint or dye, due to seasonal wood movement. I wouldn't be too concerned about accentuating the joints.
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Well done, Mark.
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Using Holly for decks
druxey replied to Jim Rogers's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You raise an interesting question, Jim. Holly decks are a model-makers' convention. Another convention that does not reflect 'real' ships is ebony for false keels. Yet another is using black line for standing rigging. These styles were begun by well-known model-makers and then copied by many others. And so it continues. Personal taste comes in to play here. Some prefer a stylized look to their models. Others prefer a 'realistic' appearance to their models, including wear and weathering. You, as the maker, have to please yourself (unless you are building on commission for a client). There are no absolute right or wrongs. -
Just catching up with your build(s), Paul. Very nice work!
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Sweet! Coming along nicely, Mike.
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Model by David Antscherl for sale The Hayling hoy of 1760 is a carefully researched model of an original subject at the classic scale of 1:48. This model was constructed as a prototype for a forthcoming book. Made of Castello boxwood, pear and holly, it is fully framed with one side fully planked. The model is rigged and measures 28”L x 28”H x 14W”. Offered on a custom veneered base but uncased. Serious enquiries are invited. More photographs upon request, terms available.
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Looking good, that is to say, awful! Thanks for the early 'heads up', T&E. Of course, watching the trailer in the dead of Canadian winter is not uplifting!
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Sorry if I misinterpreted your photo, Maurys. I'll shut up now and slink away!
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Sorry to read about your re-do, Gary. Usually the channels rest against the outer planking, and are not inserted into a slot in them.
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Best wishes with your change in circumstances, Alexander! Nice lion's head.
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Small point (which may be unimportant to you!): If you serve in the opposite direction to the 'lay' of the rope, the result will be smoother in appearance. The example above seems to be served in the same direction. That's a serious looking machine you have there for the job, Maury!
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As long as the vertical height(s) at the stem rabbet is/are correct, you should be fine!
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I found it much easier to work on the counters with the model inverted. Nice work on the lower counter figures!
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The reverse curve is an optical illusion. As seen from the side, the curve continues up to the bow. However, if you plot this curve in three dimensions (the bow is curving away fro the viewer in plan view), the curve flattens out. The rounder the bow, the more apparent is this effect.
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SilkSpan worked well for me. You might want to get the supplement to Volume IV, The Fully Framed Model from SeaWatchBooks. It describes a method of working with this material.
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