druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Don't rely 100% on masking tape to prevent bleeding of dye! For wales, I dye them before applying other planking. To dye to a line (for instance on a mast), I cut a stop-line in the wood with a new scalpel blade. This prevents wicking of dye through the end grain to where I don't want it. Practice on scrap to see this simple but effective technique. -
Jet or Dewalt scroll saw
druxey replied to Anguirel's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've used an almost vibration-free DeWalt 778 successfully for 15 years. (Sorry, Brian!) I'm very happy with its performance. It is a variable speed machine. It's not clear whether the Jet offers this very useful feature. Foe instance, one can cut acrylic successfully at very slow speed without melting the plastic to the blade. -
If drawing mechanically, use a paper strip. You can pivot it about your pencil point as you move the strip around a curve, deriving a pretty accurate 'real' length in this manner.
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Are you sure? Is it handwritten or part of the printed form?
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Beautifully rendered, Igor. Also, the construction is interesting. Well done!
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I use bamboo for treenail production. I split and draw it down dry. As described above, use the layer just under the glassy outer layer. As one goes further down inside, the material becomes soft and fuzzy. And yes, using parallel pliers to draw the bamboo minimizes - but does not entirely eliminate - crushing.
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- dowel plate
- splitter
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Great progress, Gaetan!
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I don't know how I came to miss the updates to your work, but, oh my! Your rigging is beautifully done.
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Small cotton bits from Q-tips held in needle-nose tweezers get into corners nicely.
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Looking good, Mark. However, is it the angle of the bow photo, or does the wale appear to widen at the bow?
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Respiratory protection? Yes, you should!
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Yes, those planks should be spiled if you want a perfect result. I've always been suspicious of Longridge's 'one size fits all' jig for anchor stock wale planking. It doesn't work, at least, for me.
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Brazing vs soft soldering
druxey replied to dvm27's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Stay-Brite can be blackened? Well, apart from the issue of false advertising, I didn't know that! Good to know that it is lead-free. Thanks, Kurt. -
I find black thread spot glued with dilute white glue useful for this exercise: it's easy to roll the thread up or down with a wet finger to adjust the run of the curve.
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Roger is correct; the 'enzyme method' using saliva is a good and useful method. However, with the heavy matting of accumulated dust, this may not work as well here as dilute detergent and water might.
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Some builders use wire instead of stiffened line to shape the sails as you describe.
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Interesting point that last photo raises for me: would the ship be under way and need steering when the capstan was in use? Enquiring minds....
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- anchor hoy
- hoy
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By George, I think he's got it! Hopefully the lip on the lower side (as seen in the photo) is deep enough for fairing.
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Well, good luck as you go about restoring these models to some of their former glory! To answer some of your questions: 1) Whether you try to save the sails or replace them, they should come off. You might try a very dilute bleach in a lukewarm bath. A little detergent may also help clean. Whether the mildew will go or not - you'll need to see. Before experimenting, make a pattern of the sail, in case it disintegrates. 2) Old glue is usually amenable to either water or (gentle) heat. Sometimes it is so brittle the part will come away with a light tap. 3) Try very dilute detergent on Q-tips. Roll the tip rather than scrub! You will need a lot of patience for this. 4) Old models were generally painted with enamels. I generally retouch in missing areas with acrylics. Hope this helps. Always try a new technique on a spot that isn't noticable!
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I don't recall seeing an actual scarphed 'made' yard modelled before, Ed. Nice detail!
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- young america
- clipper
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Smart - and handsome too!
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