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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Earlier ships had beveled steps as shown, later ships (after about the 1830's) had a smooth surface where strakes tapered into one another. The main wale was then not stepped at all.
  2. Pump tubes could be made clamshell style: in two halves. One route would be a master mould and cast them. The other would be wood milled to section. The latter possibility is, of course, more time-consuming and costly.
  3. Not as historically correct as first glance gives the impression of! However, a bold attempt.
  4. There is confusion sometimes about 'black strakes'. They could be single or double as mentioned above. However, sometimes the first strake above the wale was painted black and sometimes it wasn't!
  5. Well, that's a nice challenging piece of construction! Good going, Dan.
  6. Thank you, Michael. My local hobby store has closed and the other store I occasionally went to no longer stocks SilkSpan.
  7. Where are you located? If you are within easy reach of Paris, La Musee de la marine would be the first possible place to enquire. Otherwise, Google 'Brittany fishing schooner plan' to see some images.
  8. That is a valuable window into those times and places. Please preserve it carefully and perhaps transcribe the contents for a wider audience.
  9. Very impressive - especially the aft end of the clamp!
  10. Often Rube Goldberg (U.K. model-makers, read Heath Robinson) arrangements with rubber bands and wood wedges are a useful work-around when conventional clamping is impossible.
  11. The drawing implies a planked area between tafferel and fife rail above. Usually you can see counter timberheads extending up if that area were open. The draught is 'as launched', so I would take that as the way she actually was.
  12. The 'narrow strakes' are called ribbands. Where they curve sharply at the bow and stern they are cut to shape they are termed harpins. These are temporary battens to secure the framing until the planking is hung. Generally, they follow the lines of the floor and futtock joints and run a few feet above and below them.
  13. I just use sanding sticks very carefully once the whole port has been planked all around. They are extra-long so that the far end rests against the opposite port opening. The edges of the sanding stick are beveled back so I can get right into the corners.
  14. Yes, wood movement can be a problem. Can you humidify in winter and dehumidify in summer to keep the RH reasonable constant? That stain looks like a water-stain. If it will be exposed in the finished model you could try to damp sponge it off. Lovely work on that wale!
  15. Dear Dick, you wrote: "I fear that a nautical academic would regard my model as a good speculative decorative model and no more." Yes, there is speculation involved, but it's based on your research and reasoning, so I disagree - it IS more! I think many of us are awaiting the findings in the Black Sea cache with interest. In the meantime, I think you are doing a fine job.
  16. For a 'non-carver', those tafferel figures are really very respectable! I wish my first carving efforts had looked anywhere as good as those!
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