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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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ancre Chebece 1750 by Jeronimo - FINISHED
druxey replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I can only echo what has already been written: beautiful and precise! -
The Berwick draught is a very interesting drawing. Those 'extreme' hanging knees shown on the gun and upper decks must surely be iron - they appear to be considerably less than a foot wide, judging from the scale in the upper right. The standards on the upper deck are wider and must be wood. I was also looking at the knee of the head: all the joints are tabled ones. That would be a modelling challenge!
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Looking lovely, Mike. Ignore those jealous comments about how good your work and photography is!
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They would be unlikely all cut to the same length, as A) the shift of butts have to be taken into account and all butts must land in the middle of a frame. As for the aft end of the wale, for wood economy it might have been something like I've sketched. What do you think?
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I assume the swivel helped level the yard when the ship was heeled.
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As long as you shift the butts properly in correct sequence, you should be all right.
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Sweet! She is looking very nice indeed, Rusty.
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- Syren Ship Model Company
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A beautiful demonstration of how far the yard can be braced around using the yoke and swivel arrangement. Nice, Ed!
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Don't rely 100% on masking tape to prevent bleeding of dye! For wales, I dye them before applying other planking. To dye to a line (for instance on a mast), I cut a stop-line in the wood with a new scalpel blade. This prevents wicking of dye through the end grain to where I don't want it. Practice on scrap to see this simple but effective technique.
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Jet or Dewalt scroll saw
druxey replied to Anguirel's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've used an almost vibration-free DeWalt 778 successfully for 15 years. (Sorry, Brian!) I'm very happy with its performance. It is a variable speed machine. It's not clear whether the Jet offers this very useful feature. Foe instance, one can cut acrylic successfully at very slow speed without melting the plastic to the blade. -
If drawing mechanically, use a paper strip. You can pivot it about your pencil point as you move the strip around a curve, deriving a pretty accurate 'real' length in this manner.
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Are you sure? Is it handwritten or part of the printed form?
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Beautifully rendered, Igor. Also, the construction is interesting. Well done!
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I use bamboo for treenail production. I split and draw it down dry. As described above, use the layer just under the glassy outer layer. As one goes further down inside, the material becomes soft and fuzzy. And yes, using parallel pliers to draw the bamboo minimizes - but does not entirely eliminate - crushing.
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- dowel plate
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Great progress, Gaetan!
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I don't know how I came to miss the updates to your work, but, oh my! Your rigging is beautifully done.
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Small cotton bits from Q-tips held in needle-nose tweezers get into corners nicely.
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Looking good, Mark. However, is it the angle of the bow photo, or does the wale appear to widen at the bow?
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Respiratory protection? Yes, you should!
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Yes, those planks should be spiled if you want a perfect result. I've always been suspicious of Longridge's 'one size fits all' jig for anchor stock wale planking. It doesn't work, at least, for me.
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Brazing vs soft soldering
druxey replied to dvm27's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Stay-Brite can be blackened? Well, apart from the issue of false advertising, I didn't know that! Good to know that it is lead-free. Thanks, Kurt. -
I find black thread spot glued with dilute white glue useful for this exercise: it's easy to roll the thread up or down with a wet finger to adjust the run of the curve.
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