druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Dan's method is the best way: and you don't need the expense of a lathe! That's how the old-time mast and spar makers did it as well.
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If that errant impression is bothering you, Clare, try this: As you are using a very soft wood, repeated drops of water on a paintbrush tip into the hole should swell the wood and close the gap, or at least minimize it. Hopefully the stain you've used won't be affected. Thank you for the explanations and terms used: it's fascinating stuff. -
Brilliant. The pirates pirating off other pirates that.... on and on, like an infinite hall of mirrors! Hopefully they will soon disappear up their own collective fundus.
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I hope so as well! Should be fine, I think.
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Looking very good, Mike, but leave a little extra 'meat' for final fairing in. It's awfully hard to glue wood back on again....
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You did well with that nasty twisting piece of the clamp at the aft end!
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Nothing like experience, eh? The revised version looks good. However, is either the drumhead too large in diameter or the pawls and spindle too small? I was looking at the image on page 1 of your log.
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- anchor hoy
- hoy
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I would concur with Dan. However, it is possible that the score for the fish davit to sit in is angled and is deepest inboard, tapering to nothing outboard. If so, the outboard aspect would be exactly as drafted.
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Thank you for my smile this morning, Ed. Beautifully executed work!
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- young america
- clipper
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If the NMM (now RMG) database has mis-identified this, one can let them know by clicking the box below the description: Help us Do you know more about this? Share your knowledge
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Ah, well. You still have the evidence of your deck joinery in your photographic records. Well done, Frank.
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I apologize for the late reply, Steven: I was away. The clips from Oz are seen in the photo. No idea where my wife picked them up, other than an office supply type store. I imagine you should be able to find them. As for removing 'extra' glue from the interior of the hull, if you used white or yellow glue, it should soften with a careful application of rubbing alcohol.
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Beautifully crafted, as usual!
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For those not familiar with 4H leads, these are invaluable (held in a clutch pencil/mechanical holder) for mark-out. Sharpened, they keep a point and one can draw extremely thin lines using them. They improve accuracy of mark-out dramatically! Cliff is offering you a great deal - take advantage of it!
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- 4h leads
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For yet another approach, see the topic under 'Reviews': Swan IV, Sailmaking Supplement.
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Thanks for this contribution, Richard!
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- 70 gun
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Good progress, Maury. You might consider raising the demarkation line a little fore and aft before painting the underwater body. It counteracts the optical illusion of the ends of the line dropping due to the shape of the hull.
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Excellent progress, Mike. Looks like you are developing a rhythm!
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All looks pretty convincing to my eye, Chuck!
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- Queen Anne Barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
druxey replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Superb work there, Giorgio! -
Nice progress, Clare.
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I note that you live in Oz. I have some small plastic coated bulldog clips that my wife brought back from Australia. They are really useful for model-making in situations like you show. Unfortunately I can't get them here in N. America, but you should be able to find them easily.
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