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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    No, that is a pirated version - and not a very good one - lifted from the book that you see advertised, I'm afraid.
  2. druxey
    That looks right to my eye now, Mark. It's a critical point that many modelers miss. Later it comes back to bite as the headwork won't articulate properly with the bow of the model. I'm glad you posted those photos in time to catch it!
  3. druxey
    Looking great, Mike!
  4. druxey
    This continues to be a beautiful piece of craftsmanship, Amalio!
  5. druxey
    Your assumption that the smooth upward curve on the sheer drawing (in one plane) is the same projected on the 3D shape of the bow is misleading. That is the trap!
  6. druxey
    I still enjoy my DB200 Unimat, circa 1970. It is a very versatile power tool. Thoroughly recommended, and other accessories are available on eBay.
  7. druxey
    Beware of the line rising too far at the bow. Check the height from the baseboard to the wale edge at the bow rabbet. Usually the curve of the wale flattens or even appears to reverse at the bow. If the wale ends up too high on the bow, it will throw off all the headwork. You won't want that!
  8. druxey
    It doesn't look too heavy visually to me, Mike.
  9. druxey
    I would not want to speculate at a distance from a single photograph. As this is apparently a 'decorative model', I would simply leave things as they are with the lightest of cleaning.
  10. druxey
    That's good progress!
  11. druxey
    Very nicely done. If the fish bother you, try bending a couple of them and coat them all with a gloss finish; that will help a lot.
  12. druxey
    Sweet! Nicely done, Ben.
  13. druxey
    A very labor-intensive job well done, Frank!
  14. druxey
    Patience rewarded! Neat former/jig work as well, Mark.
  15. druxey
    Some colors are more transparent than others and need more coats to cover adequately.
  16. druxey
    A tricky bit of machining! Looks good, Frank.
  17. druxey
    Thank you for filling in the details of your modelling-against-the-clock marathon! That deck looks very nice to my eye.
  18. druxey
    I used to use UHU many, many years ago. If it's still the same, it is a solvent-based glue. This makes clean-up or de-bonding an issue. If you are working with wood, use white (polyvinyl) or yellow (aliphatic) glue. Use water to clean up, and there are less health issues!
  19. druxey
    I'd be inclined to show the correct house flag and ensign rather than the presumed replacements. Otherwise you'll continue to confuse future folk looking at the model!
  20. druxey
    Coming along very nicely, despite what Kurt said. Those slight steps in the floors will disappear when you complete the final fairing. It's not an unusual thing to see at this stage.
  21. druxey
    Great progress, Mike.
  22. druxey
    The running soldering along the line of plates sounds like a tricky operation to coordinate properly. Lovely results, though. Best wishes for the New Year, Gerald.
  23. druxey
    Not a great idea. Wood will shrink, particularly across the grain as it dries, leaving gaps between the strakes. Bend and let the plank dry out in place, then adjust for final fit before gluing it.
  24. druxey
    Consider replacing the flag using SilkSpan, Michael. Pre-stretch it on a frame rather like watercolor paper. (I know you know all about that!) I use acrylic paints on SilkSpan.
  25. druxey
    Nicely made and finished, Ben.

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