druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Great progress, Gaetan! -
I don't know how I came to miss the updates to your work, but, oh my! Your rigging is beautifully done.
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Small cotton bits from Q-tips held in needle-nose tweezers get into corners nicely.
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Looking good, Mark. However, is it the angle of the bow photo, or does the wale appear to widen at the bow?
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Respiratory protection? Yes, you should!
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Yes, those planks should be spiled if you want a perfect result. I've always been suspicious of Longridge's 'one size fits all' jig for anchor stock wale planking. It doesn't work, at least, for me.
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Brazing vs soft soldering
druxey replied to dvm27's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Stay-Brite can be blackened? Well, apart from the issue of false advertising, I didn't know that! Good to know that it is lead-free. Thanks, Kurt. -
I find black thread spot glued with dilute white glue useful for this exercise: it's easy to roll the thread up or down with a wet finger to adjust the run of the curve.
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Roger is correct; the 'enzyme method' using saliva is a good and useful method. However, with the heavy matting of accumulated dust, this may not work as well here as dilute detergent and water might.
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Some builders use wire instead of stiffened line to shape the sails as you describe.
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Interesting point that last photo raises for me: would the ship be under way and need steering when the capstan was in use? Enquiring minds....
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- anchor hoy
- hoy
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By George, I think he's got it! Hopefully the lip on the lower side (as seen in the photo) is deep enough for fairing.
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Well, good luck as you go about restoring these models to some of their former glory! To answer some of your questions: 1) Whether you try to save the sails or replace them, they should come off. You might try a very dilute bleach in a lukewarm bath. A little detergent may also help clean. Whether the mildew will go or not - you'll need to see. Before experimenting, make a pattern of the sail, in case it disintegrates. 2) Old glue is usually amenable to either water or (gentle) heat. Sometimes it is so brittle the part will come away with a light tap. 3) Try very dilute detergent on Q-tips. Roll the tip rather than scrub! You will need a lot of patience for this. 4) Old models were generally painted with enamels. I generally retouch in missing areas with acrylics. Hope this helps. Always try a new technique on a spot that isn't noticable!
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I don't recall seeing an actual scarphed 'made' yard modelled before, Ed. Nice detail!
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- young america
- clipper
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Smart - and handsome too!
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Nice to see you last weekend and to see your progress, Dan. I always thought they were called 'spurnwaters', not 'breakwaters' - or is that an English English vs American English thing?
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- michelangelo
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ancre Chebece 1750 by Jeronimo - FINISHED
druxey replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Superb! -
It's more likely to spread than collapse. I'd use some temporary cross-spalls as insurance to keep the hull from doing this.
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I believe that the scarph was arranged as in the first version you posted. The purpose of this was to 'bind' the stern framing from separating away aft from the sides of the ship, not to prevent hogging. I've never seen an illustration of the second arrangement of a scarph that you've sketched.
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I concur with the straight side arm, if it lands on the spirketting, Mark.
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