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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    An epic saga, Dan. And you thought that the funnel cagework would be your nemesis! But you got there eventually. Well done. I hope the rest of the build is less frustrating.
  2. druxey
    99% isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) is what I use, Steven. The less the water content, the less woodgrain is raised. I'm sure ethanol would work equally well. Methanol on its own (at least here) is dyed blue and would probably stain.
  3. druxey
    An impressive pile of resawn lumber!
  4. druxey
    The Complete Metalsmith is a mine of information! All gold, no dross.
  5. druxey
    Looks terrific, Ben!
  6. druxey
    Well, Steven, it looks like you had a battle royal there! Balancing any forces in such thin and delicate structures is a real challenge. Some parts need to be cut to shape rather than bent sometimes. However, it looks like you won! Persistence paid off.
  7. druxey
    If you hadn't mentioned it, I wouldn't have noticed. I'm sure no-one else would have either!
  8. druxey
    Contemporary models show the paint job carried across the billboard to match.
  9. druxey
    I'd take Danny's advice on Castello or even English boxwood for those deadeyes, especially the small sizes. Dyeing is easy, if a little messy. Incidentally it's easier to solder up the chains before putting in the deadeyes. After cleaning and blackening the chains, a gentle squeeze with needle-nose pliers closes up the ring of the deadeye link around the deadeye.
  10. druxey
    I don't think too many folk will notice that, Mike! She's looking very nice indeed.
  11. druxey
    Looks lovely, Rusty. However, won't getting the lower shrouds rigged be a problem now?
  12. druxey
    Those lines look sweet and lovely, John. Your description of getting there is laugh-out-loud funny! I guess not so much for you, though. Well done.
  13. druxey
    Beautifully done, Alexandru. Would you consider replacing the supporting rods with clear acrylic ones?
  14. druxey
    Good advice, Greg.
  15. druxey
    You could, but if you've accidentally removed a little too much....
  16. druxey
    Ah. Remember, it took three or four tries until I got my first set of cant frames right! Why should you - or anyone else - learn faster? Seriously, it's all part of the learning curve. Persevere, my friend. You are getting there. As Robert Louis Stevenson wrote, "It is better to travel hopefully than to arrive."
  17. druxey
    If I understand your dilemma correctly, you are concerned with having sufficient wood for the extreme bevels at the bow of your model. Each frame will have an outer contour for its larger edge and smaller edge, the difference being the amount of bevel. If you take the smaller edge and then plot the thickness of the frame inside that, it will define the inner contour of the (unbevelled) frame when coupled with the larger outer contour. Does this help? And yes, bevelling and fairing the hull is easier when assembled!
  18. druxey
    Beautifully done, as usual!
  19. druxey
    There should be no issue if you use white or yellow glue to attach the frames. Just mop up any glue squeeze-out with a wet brush before the glue sets up.
  20. druxey
    Take a bow for successfully completing your first planking job!
  21. druxey
    "Tinted wax" (medium) finish (left) and clear (right).
  22. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Mike!
  23. druxey
    There is an English translation of Ollivier by the late David Roberts, published by Jean Boudriot Publications, ISBN0-948864-11-7. You may be able to locate copy on abebooks.com but it will be pricey!
  24. druxey
    I agree, Gaetan. My current model hull (much smaller) with about 40 couples at 1:48 scale is stable as I assembled the framing and then fitted the deck clamps immediately. The model was bolted to a building board to keep the keel straight and flat until the wales were also added. Of course, with your 1:24 model the various forces are much larger.
  25. druxey
    Trussben's Pegasus framing at 1:48 had a similar problem with changes in humidity distorting the framing because of the spacers. Expansion/contraction gaps seem to be the answer.

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