Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    13,131
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Roger is correct; the 'enzyme method' using saliva is a good and useful method. However, with the heavy matting of accumulated dust, this may not work as well here as dilute detergent and water might.
  2. Some builders use wire instead of stiffened line to shape the sails as you describe.
  3. Interesting point that last photo raises for me: would the ship be under way and need steering when the capstan was in use? Enquiring minds....
  4. By George, I think he's got it! Hopefully the lip on the lower side (as seen in the photo) is deep enough for fairing.
  5. Well, good luck as you go about restoring these models to some of their former glory! To answer some of your questions: 1) Whether you try to save the sails or replace them, they should come off. You might try a very dilute bleach in a lukewarm bath. A little detergent may also help clean. Whether the mildew will go or not - you'll need to see. Before experimenting, make a pattern of the sail, in case it disintegrates. 2) Old glue is usually amenable to either water or (gentle) heat. Sometimes it is so brittle the part will come away with a light tap. 3) Try very dilute detergent on Q-tips. Roll the tip rather than scrub! You will need a lot of patience for this. 4) Old models were generally painted with enamels. I generally retouch in missing areas with acrylics. Hope this helps. Always try a new technique on a spot that isn't noticable!
  6. I don't recall seeing an actual scarphed 'made' yard modelled before, Ed. Nice detail!
  7. Nice to see you last weekend and to see your progress, Dan. I always thought they were called 'spurnwaters', not 'breakwaters' - or is that an English English vs American English thing?
  8. It's more likely to spread than collapse. I'd use some temporary cross-spalls as insurance to keep the hull from doing this.
  9. Ah! Now those bars look convincing. Nice, Maury.
  10. I believe that the scarph was arranged as in the first version you posted. The purpose of this was to 'bind' the stern framing from separating away aft from the sides of the ship, not to prevent hogging. I've never seen an illustration of the second arrangement of a scarph that you've sketched.
  11. I concur with the straight side arm, if it lands on the spirketting, Mark.
  12. The contemporary model of Amazon, 32 guns (RMG collection) shows these stanchions for manropes, but there is no line or netting.
  13. Read one of the planking tutorials on this site.
  14. If there is a scarph between the side arm and spirketting, my impression is that the hook of the scarph on the arm fits to a score in the spirketting on the side, thus locking it. Anyone have an opinion to the contrary?
  15. I went through this exercise recently with handspikes for a windlass!
  16. Grip a comfortably sized handle. That is the diameter of a capstan bar.
  17. Beautifully done rudder metalwork, Montanes!
  18. That is a good trick, Mark. Another (my party trick) is to cut a perfect 45 degree angle without measuring. Again, angle of reflection is the secret! But don't tell anyone.
  19. Usually Burton pendant tackles were not permanently rigged, so their omission wouldn't be a screw-up!
  20. There were many medals struck to commemorate Nelson. The nicest (in my opinion) is the Boulton Medal.
  21. Ah! So it was never a book at all. Thank you. Alcedo and Jim. It was my education for today.
×
×
  • Create New...