druxey
-
Posts
13,093 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
Bitumen can be problematic. It never really dries out completely. However, I don't know about very thin washes of it; perhaps this isn't an issue. In paint it certainly 'crawls' over time and can alligator as well. You could try washes of acrylic or, if you don't want to use that, artists' oil paint. Burnt umber or Van Dyke brown would be better substitutes. -
It's been a while since I checked your progress. Terrific stuff!
-
SOLEIL ROYAL 1669 by michel saunier
druxey replied to michel saunier's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Impressive! -
This seems a reasonable proposition. There should be sufficient space under the lower chocks to slide the pawl into place.
- 525 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- anchor hoy
- hoy
- (and 1 more)
-
Dan's method is the best way: and you don't need the expense of a lathe! That's how the old-time mast and spar makers did it as well.
-
If that errant impression is bothering you, Clare, try this: As you are using a very soft wood, repeated drops of water on a paintbrush tip into the hole should swell the wood and close the gap, or at least minimize it. Hopefully the stain you've used won't be affected. Thank you for the explanations and terms used: it's fascinating stuff.
-
Brilliant. The pirates pirating off other pirates that.... on and on, like an infinite hall of mirrors! Hopefully they will soon disappear up their own collective fundus.
- 1 reply
-
- 6
-
-
I hope so as well! Should be fine, I think.
-
Looking very good, Mike, but leave a little extra 'meat' for final fairing in. It's awfully hard to glue wood back on again....
-
You did well with that nasty twisting piece of the clamp at the aft end!
-
Nothing like experience, eh? The revised version looks good. However, is either the drumhead too large in diameter or the pawls and spindle too small? I was looking at the image on page 1 of your log.
- 525 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- anchor hoy
- hoy
- (and 1 more)
-
I would concur with Dan. However, it is possible that the score for the fish davit to sit in is angled and is deepest inboard, tapering to nothing outboard. If so, the outboard aspect would be exactly as drafted.
-
Thank you for my smile this morning, Ed. Beautifully executed work!
- 3,612 replies
-
- 9
-
-
- young america
- clipper
- (and 1 more)
-
If the NMM (now RMG) database has mis-identified this, one can let them know by clicking the box below the description: Help us Do you know more about this? Share your knowledge
-
Ah, well. You still have the evidence of your deck joinery in your photographic records. Well done, Frank.
-
I apologize for the late reply, Steven: I was away. The clips from Oz are seen in the photo. No idea where my wife picked them up, other than an office supply type store. I imagine you should be able to find them. As for removing 'extra' glue from the interior of the hull, if you used white or yellow glue, it should soften with a careful application of rubbing alcohol.
-
Beautifully crafted, as usual!
-
For those not familiar with 4H leads, these are invaluable (held in a clutch pencil/mechanical holder) for mark-out. Sharpened, they keep a point and one can draw extremely thin lines using them. They improve accuracy of mark-out dramatically! Cliff is offering you a great deal - take advantage of it!
- 3 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- 4h leads
- mechanical pencil
- (and 1 more)
-
For yet another approach, see the topic under 'Reviews': Swan IV, Sailmaking Supplement.
-
Thanks for this contribution, Richard!
- 4 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- 70 gun
- third rate
- (and 4 more)
-
Good progress, Maury. You might consider raising the demarkation line a little fore and aft before painting the underwater body. It counteracts the optical illusion of the ends of the line dropping due to the shape of the hull.
- 525 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- anchor hoy
- hoy
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
