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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Welcome, Sharp, you ex-pat! You'll find lots to look at here.
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Oh, yes, I've had that problem!!! I also add x and y scales, and also I was told never to scale off a print. I've rejected commercial prints from e-files, not hard copy scans, as some commercial printers also do not print at exactly 100% unless calibrated against a test print and corrected. It's a printing jungle full of traps out there, folks! -
Print the frames on another large sheet and cut them up? Avoid the scaling issue of your own printer that way. (Did you check that the printer was set to 100% as opposed to 'size to fit sheet'?)
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Can you print out an extra sacrificial sheet?
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Tried turning the model upside down and shaking it, Ed? Just kidding! Lovely work and progress, as usual. I love the open boat partially in frame as seen in the second to last photo.
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Do you apply glue with a small brush? The frame will stick to the paper sometimes, but it's not a big deal. Any paper remnants sand off easily.
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BTW: I always assemble my frames directly over the paper patterns. The copies are disposable, and there is no parallax problem through the thickness of glass or other transparent medium. Try it to see if you like it.
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Oh, my! However, I think you've made the right decision, Alan: you would always regret it if you'd left things as they were. I ripped out three sets of cant frames on my first framed build before I was happy with them. No regrets at all!
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Bitumen can be problematic. It never really dries out completely. However, I don't know about very thin washes of it; perhaps this isn't an issue. In paint it certainly 'crawls' over time and can alligator as well. You could try washes of acrylic or, if you don't want to use that, artists' oil paint. Burnt umber or Van Dyke brown would be better substitutes.
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It's been a while since I checked your progress. Terrific stuff!
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SOLEIL ROYAL 1669 by michel saunier
druxey replied to michel saunier's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
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This seems a reasonable proposition. There should be sufficient space under the lower chocks to slide the pawl into place.
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Dan's method is the best way: and you don't need the expense of a lathe! That's how the old-time mast and spar makers did it as well.
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If that errant impression is bothering you, Clare, try this: As you are using a very soft wood, repeated drops of water on a paintbrush tip into the hole should swell the wood and close the gap, or at least minimize it. Hopefully the stain you've used won't be affected. Thank you for the explanations and terms used: it's fascinating stuff.
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Brilliant. The pirates pirating off other pirates that.... on and on, like an infinite hall of mirrors! Hopefully they will soon disappear up their own collective fundus.
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I hope so as well! Should be fine, I think.
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Looking very good, Mike, but leave a little extra 'meat' for final fairing in. It's awfully hard to glue wood back on again....
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You did well with that nasty twisting piece of the clamp at the aft end!
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Nothing like experience, eh? The revised version looks good. However, is either the drumhead too large in diameter or the pawls and spindle too small? I was looking at the image on page 1 of your log.
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I would concur with Dan. However, it is possible that the score for the fish davit to sit in is angled and is deepest inboard, tapering to nothing outboard. If so, the outboard aspect would be exactly as drafted.
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Thank you for my smile this morning, Ed. Beautifully executed work!
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