druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Trussben's Pegasus framing at 1:48 had a similar problem with changes in humidity distorting the framing because of the spacers. Expansion/contraction gaps seem to be the answer. -
Just don't continue to shrink....
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Ah, the legendary Studley cabinet! Isn't it amazing. Now, Mark, don't get side-tracked into creating a replica!
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Very neat work on all those port sills!
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Good stuff, Alan. Keep your pencil point sharp, though, as thick lines = potential error.
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It may be smaller for you, Mark, but it looks like Nirvana to me, especially with a Fein dust collection system! Anyway, welcome back and looking forward to progress reports from you.
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Johann: I'm just catching up on your log. The metalwork you do is simply outstanding.
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Delightful stuff, Claire! You are doing a beautiful job on this.
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I slide the tube into a hole in a brass plate of the thickness needed for the slices. I then use a razor saw to cut off the protruding tube. This prevents distortion and makes for consistent slices. A few passes with a fine file over the surface cleans up the ring. If there are any protrusions in the hole, a small pointed burr will clean them out. I then take out the ring, place it on a brass block and (gently) flare each side with a centerpunch.
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- anchor hoy
- hoy
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Thank you for your thoughts and comments on resistance silver soldering, Gerald. Most informative. Thanks also for the url. Amazing work, beautifully executed. (Folk: if this site is available to view only for one month, rush, don't walk there!)
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- falls of clyde
- tanker
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Bien fait, monsieur! Well done, sir.
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Another miniaturist strategy is to laminate the hull in such a way that one thin lamination becomes the boot topping. Disassemble after shaping the hull, paint the various sections, reassemble and - voila! No masking required. Of course, that strategy is too late to use on this model.
- 287 replies
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- michelangelo
- ocean liner
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If the curve is slight, thin paper will form nicely. I suppose, say, under the counter, you will need to pattern and cut a section to shape.
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- michelangelo
- ocean liner
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The problem of too thick striping tape is one I've had as well, Dan. My solution was to stretch and paint thin paper the color required, then cut off narrow strips. I then tape the ends of the strips face down so they won't blow away and spray glue the backs. Result is instant thin striping tape. Might work for you?
- 287 replies
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- michelangelo
- ocean liner
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Welcome, Sharp, you ex-pat! You'll find lots to look at here.
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Oh, yes, I've had that problem!!! I also add x and y scales, and also I was told never to scale off a print. I've rejected commercial prints from e-files, not hard copy scans, as some commercial printers also do not print at exactly 100% unless calibrated against a test print and corrected. It's a printing jungle full of traps out there, folks!
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Print the frames on another large sheet and cut them up? Avoid the scaling issue of your own printer that way. (Did you check that the printer was set to 100% as opposed to 'size to fit sheet'?)
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Can you print out an extra sacrificial sheet?
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Tried turning the model upside down and shaking it, Ed? Just kidding! Lovely work and progress, as usual. I love the open boat partially in frame as seen in the second to last photo.
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- young america
- clipper
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Do you apply glue with a small brush? The frame will stick to the paper sometimes, but it's not a big deal. Any paper remnants sand off easily.
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BTW: I always assemble my frames directly over the paper patterns. The copies are disposable, and there is no parallax problem through the thickness of glass or other transparent medium. Try it to see if you like it.
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Oh, my! However, I think you've made the right decision, Alan: you would always regret it if you'd left things as they were. I ripped out three sets of cant frames on my first framed build before I was happy with them. No regrets at all!
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