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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. If I understand your dilemma correctly, you are concerned with having sufficient wood for the extreme bevels at the bow of your model. Each frame will have an outer contour for its larger edge and smaller edge, the difference being the amount of bevel. If you take the smaller edge and then plot the thickness of the frame inside that, it will define the inner contour of the (unbevelled) frame when coupled with the larger outer contour. Does this help? And yes, bevelling and fairing the hull is easier when assembled!
  2. There should be no issue if you use white or yellow glue to attach the frames. Just mop up any glue squeeze-out with a wet brush before the glue sets up.
  3. Take a bow for successfully completing your first planking job!
  4. There is an English translation of Ollivier by the late David Roberts, published by Jean Boudriot Publications, ISBN0-948864-11-7. You may be able to locate copy on abebooks.com but it will be pricey!
  5. I agree, Gaetan. My current model hull (much smaller) with about 40 couples at 1:48 scale is stable as I assembled the framing and then fitted the deck clamps immediately. The model was bolted to a building board to keep the keel straight and flat until the wales were also added. Of course, with your 1:24 model the various forces are much larger.
  6. Trussben's Pegasus framing at 1:48 had a similar problem with changes in humidity distorting the framing because of the spacers. Expansion/contraction gaps seem to be the answer.
  7. Ah, the legendary Studley cabinet! Isn't it amazing. Now, Mark, don't get side-tracked into creating a replica!
  8. Good stuff, Alan. Keep your pencil point sharp, though, as thick lines = potential error.
  9. It may be smaller for you, Mark, but it looks like Nirvana to me, especially with a Fein dust collection system! Anyway, welcome back and looking forward to progress reports from you.
  10. Johann: I'm just catching up on your log. The metalwork you do is simply outstanding.
  11. Delightful stuff, Claire! You are doing a beautiful job on this.
  12. I slide the tube into a hole in a brass plate of the thickness needed for the slices. I then use a razor saw to cut off the protruding tube. This prevents distortion and makes for consistent slices. A few passes with a fine file over the surface cleans up the ring. If there are any protrusions in the hole, a small pointed burr will clean them out. I then take out the ring, place it on a brass block and (gently) flare each side with a centerpunch.
  13. Thank you for your thoughts and comments on resistance silver soldering, Gerald. Most informative. Thanks also for the url. Amazing work, beautifully executed. (Folk: if this site is available to view only for one month, rush, don't walk there!)
  14. Another miniaturist strategy is to laminate the hull in such a way that one thin lamination becomes the boot topping. Disassemble after shaping the hull, paint the various sections, reassemble and - voila! No masking required. Of course, that strategy is too late to use on this model.
  15. If the curve is slight, thin paper will form nicely. I suppose, say, under the counter, you will need to pattern and cut a section to shape.
  16. The problem of too thick striping tape is one I've had as well, Dan. My solution was to stretch and paint thin paper the color required, then cut off narrow strips. I then tape the ends of the strips face down so they won't blow away and spray glue the backs. Result is instant thin striping tape. Might work for you?
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