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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    By George, I think he's got it!
  2. druxey
    I'm sure that there would be some sort of rabbet to bed the ends of the planks into. Congrats on finishing that set of oars!
  3. druxey
    This is a book about the history and workers at Harland and Wolff, written by a former 'Auld Hand'. Largely anecdotal, it is a fascinating social history of the yard. There are many amusing adventures and misadventures, tragedies and sketches of 'characters'. The book evokes the times and place of the premier Belfast shipyard of its day. I can highly recommend this as a 'must read'. At the back of the book are short biographies of some of the most well-known ships built there, including the most recent findings of why the Titanic sank. The damaged underwater area was actually very small, contrary to popular belief. This book was recommended to me by a naval architect who had trained at H & W and was apprenticed there when workers who had built Titanic had not yet retired! ISBN 978-0-85640-911-0 www.blackstaffpress.com
  4. druxey
    There you go - three tries! Well done. Now, how many more cant frames to go?
  5. druxey
    Lovely work on both subjects, Glenn. I can't be at the Conference this year either, but hope to catch up with you next year, circumstances allowing.
  6. druxey
    Beautifully executed work!
  7. druxey
    Also, the brass strip is in a hardened state. Heat to cherry read and allow to cool It will drill easily then. Centerpunching is a good idea as well.
  8. druxey
    I don't think anyone has nailed a cant frame the first time they made one. Took me three sets of cants the first time around. Be prepared to scrap a few!
  9. druxey
    Beautiful work as always, Ed. Would the ends of the anchor stock have been rounded off?
  10. druxey
    May I recommend a case with a door in the end? I've had to repair too many models (not my own!) that had their tophamper damaged while a case was lowered over the model. It's much easier and safer to slide the model in....
  11. druxey
    More information would be helpful in providing you with an answer. What time period and country are you talking about?
  12. druxey
    Wood can also dry out with heat gain and crack: seams can open up.
  13. druxey
    If you can get a copy of the Petrejus book on Irene, there are rigging plans in that volume.
  14. druxey
    Lovely, and have a great trip to the Conference. Wish I could be there to see the model close up!
  15. druxey
    That was a rather large item to go missing, Vaddoc. I've had one or two instances where something was hiding in plain sight....
  16. druxey
    Mike: The onus was on whoever marked the chalk lines out on the mould loft floor!
  17. druxey
    I wish I could advise you, but I use either only sanding sealer or no finish at all on parts that aren't stained or painted. Another MSW member may give you a better answer.
  18. druxey
    Still, that's tricky, oiling parts as you go. Congratulations for interesting your daughter in playing with wood already!
  19. druxey
    Normally the top tackle scuttles were installed only aft of the main mast. These were used when rigging the ship and were associated with the Burton tackles. I suspect the ones for the fore and mizen were only seen on the largest ships. I haven't seen them on contemporary models of the lower rates,
  20. druxey
    If the blocks are paired port and starboard, usually they are eye-spliced into a long strop and then the strop clove-hitched to a stay.
  21. druxey
    I agree with Blue Ensign: these paired scuttles are for the top ropes. The ones on the quarterdeck of the Royal George for the mizen mast are a feature I've not noticed before.
  22. druxey
    Simply superb metalwork!
  23. druxey
    Superb joinery, especially at the forefoot.
  24. druxey
    Thanks for my morning smile. That is a very neatly done bowsprit.
  25. druxey
    Very impressive models, Greg! But please think about protective cases for such lovely pieces of work.

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