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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Good luck with this, E&T as you figure out your best strategy. Pear is certainly amenable to bending.
  2. druxey
    Thanks, Vaddoc!
  3. druxey
    Nice lapstrake model you have there, Vaddoc! What is she?
  4. druxey
    Nice to see you back and progressing, E&T. Try laminating the wales in two or three layers. Don't attempt to bend them in one! You will certainly need to spile the lower hull planking, especially at the bow. Looking very nice so far.
  5. druxey
    Duff's advice is as good as any.
  6. druxey
    Oh. I'm sorry to read of the reason for your hiatus. Wishing you restored and continuing good health, John.
  7. druxey
    Sweet!
  8. druxey
    Is it possible that what you are seeing in the photograph is thin wood sheathing painted over?
  9. druxey
    If you use Ed Tosti's coloring method (liver of sulphur), it doesn't affect wood, but the regular chemical colorants will stain. So, like so many things, it all depends!
  10. druxey
    Please, please do NOT use Gorilla glue!!! It's horrible stuff and expands like foam, so you will get seep-out no matter how careful you are. Use a little epoxy and clean off any smear with isopropanol before it sets. You'll be much happier. Also, should you plan on coloring the metal chemically, do this before you add it to the model.
  11. druxey
    Would alignment pins before/during assembly have prevented that problem? Looks good now!
  12. druxey
    What wood and what finish have you used?
  13. druxey
    Mark has described the style well. Hahn also used ebony (yech!) for his false keel and wales. This is not the best specie of wood for the job for a variety of reasons (discussed elsewhere), but avoids painting or staining.
  14. druxey
    Have you considered giving me the second model? Oh. It's spoken for. Lovely work, as ever.
  15. druxey
    Would running the scanner along some sort of track/gantry near the object being scanned and parallel to its long axis improve tracking?
  16. druxey
    Boats in Malta look very similar today.
  17. druxey
    Presumably the plug is in pieces and once a central 'keystone' is extracted the other parts will come out easily - provided nothing has been glued to them!
  18. druxey
    You've made a lot of progress in a few weeks, Albert. Looking fabulous.
  19. druxey
    Every scratch-built framed model is frightening when you look at the huge overall project. Just focus on one piece at a time in bite-sizes and, after a while, you will have eaten the whole elephant.
  20. druxey
    Dan: every best wish with your health issues and for 'normality' again.
  21. druxey
    Your work looks very clean and neat, Vaddoc.
  22. druxey
    That hull form should not be too hard to plank, when you get to the real thing. Nice start, Sal!
  23. druxey
    Dental tools are also useful. A small elevator (looks like a tiny chisel with a bent end) is useful for scraping corners clean of any glue build-up.
  24. druxey
    Treenail end grain would absorb moisture and promote rot.
  25. druxey
    Certainly there are plans of deck planking in such volumes as the plates in Steel's Naval Architecture. One can see that the outboard strakes are laid either top and butt or anchor stock where the gun carriages run across. Inboard are strakes that are laid either with three or four planks between butts on the same beam. Strakes are also tapered and curve, rather than the modern parallel and joggled style. A few strakes are laid short with a hook instead. If you are interested, a less expensive volume is the facsimile Rees' Naval Architecture, published in the 1970's. The plates are copied directly from Steel, but at 1:96 scale instead of 1:48. Copies of this useful reference can be found on such sites as abeboooks.com

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