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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    So, if I understand things correctly, the sweep or brace was raised above deck to the height of the underside of the tiller. I presume this would have been supported on pedestals or stanchions of some sort. (It appears to be about 2' 0" above deck at the midline in the sheer and profile.) As the rudder is hung at the angle of the stern post, the tiller arc will not be horizontal, so this sweep must be arc-shaped as seen from forward or aft, as well as transversally. The gooseneck at the fore end of the tiller must be there for a reason. Is it simply to raise the end to a convenient height for the steersman? And lastly, what kind of tackle or relieving tackle was fitted to the eye at the end of the gooseneck?
  2. druxey
    Once again, thank you for checking in and for your positive comments. Progress today was slow. The tholes took more time than expected due to chipping as I parted them off the stock. I suppose about 40 were made, to finally end up with 24 useable ones. So it goes sometimes! It is finally time to consider the coach. I realized that the panelled sides need to be inset, or they would overlap the sheer strake and gunwale considerably. This means cutting down the uppermost strake aft. The is a job for tomorrow when I'm fresh! I gave the aftermost part of this strake a preparatory coat of blue paint, but I'm having second thoughts and may change this to black. The draught indicates a dark color here, but no more.
  3. druxey
    Dashicat: Dashed lines used as you suggest (for hidden or underlying items) is a modern drafting convention. Back then dashed lines indicated retrofitted items. Usually internal fixtures were drawn in red ink. So, the quadrant is above the quarter deck (unusual) and on the sheer and profile there is a cranked gooseneck on the end the tiller. This suggests some form of block and tackle arrangement above deck.
  4. druxey
    Thanks again, folks. No further finish on the surface of the base is necessary, Tom. The latest progress has been slow. Making and installing the gunwale was tricky. It is a scale 2½" wide by ¾" deep. That translates to about 3/64" by 1/64" full size. I cut this to shape from sheet Castello and carefully rounded the outer edge with fine sandpaper. The gunwale was carefully glued to the upper edge of the sheer strake and frame tops. At the bow, where the fore deck is flush to the upper side of the gunwale, revision was needed. I sanded off the paint and applied a very narrow strip of Castello over the sheer strake to match the rest of the gunwale. As masking off the top accurately would be almost impossible, I scribed the line dividing the painted area and re-painted the deck.
  5. druxey
    Congratulations, Toni. Aren't you glad she's not a 74 gun ship?
  6. druxey
    Thank you, everyone! The next thing to tackle was the 'go faster' stripe along the sheer strake. Old paintings and extant ceremonial barges show either a green or scarlet strake. I opted for green, to contrast with the red paint. Securing the model on its side gently was a problem. Clamping was not an option! I decided to use a piece of dense styrofoam, which worked very well. I simply cut a slightly wedge-shaped piece out of the block and lowered the model into the gap. The masking used is Tamiya flexible tape.
  7. druxey
    Excellent machining as usual, Michael! It's always a pleasure seeing your updates.
  8. druxey
    The baseboard has now been completed and the pedestals installed. The model has been temporarily mounted and the rudder hung.
  9. druxey
    Thanks again, folks. Now for a change of pace. To complete the outside of the hull, the rudder needs to be made and hung. To avoid damage, the base had to be made now. I decided on a nice burl veneer for this purpose - except that I had none on hand. Drawing on my experience of faux finishing, I painted the burl on ply using the three colors shown. The outer edges will be trimmed using brown stained and polished wood (at top). All these elements can be seen in the photo. Assembly will be done tomorrow.
  10. druxey
    I thought that they might be goosenecks for stunsail booms, but she is fore-and-aft rigged....
  11. druxey
    I agree with Chuck that a chamfer between strakes does not look great. In any case, after a year or two of slight wood movement, the seam will be visible through paint anyway,
  12. druxey
    Generally, Humbrol should be dry in hours, not weeks! It may be a combination of both factors mentioned, both temperature and humidity.
  13. druxey
    Normally aft station lines blend smoothly into the keel/deadwood structure. An angle, such as you show, will be impossible to plank. On another note, you should be able to save a 'screen grab' - rather than take off-axis photos of your screen.
  14. druxey
    Question: which set of waterlines fair properly with the station sections and a proof diagonal or two?
  15. druxey
    Bensid: Yes, that is a Boley watchmaker's/jeweler's lathe that I use. This particular model has a collet-bearing tailstock, which is a big advantage. The standard scale that I build models at is the classic 1:48. Open boats look quite small at this scale!
  16. druxey
    Another minor update: The underwater hull has been refined and the gudgeons added. The lower gudgeon is conventional, but the upper one on the transom is a small eyebolt. This was often the case with open boats. I looked at photographs of extant ceremonial barges and noticed that the transoms were invariably painted. It was an awkward job to do at this stage of the build, but I was successful using a 00 sable brush. The mounting of the model now needed to be considered. I decided to make a simple pair of pedestals in clear acrylic. These were turned, then polished. I was filing the keel slot in the second of these when one side cracked off. I had to repeat the set-up to produce a duplicate piece. Grrr!
  17. druxey
    You might consider using a piece of hacksaw blade that has been heat-softened. And certainly it's normal to make multiple passes to form the contour needed, even on small mouldings. Using too much pressure and impatience will result in a wavy and ugly result!
  18. druxey
    Coming along really nicely, Bob. Very neatly done.
  19. druxey
    Those are very acceptable looking strops, Toni. Is there enough length to hook both ends of the frapped side tackle, though? If the gun is run out, those tackle would be cast off ready for action.
  20. druxey
    Silver is very malleable, but work hardens fairly quickly. However, it is easily annealed and worked further.
  21. druxey
    Not only nice work, but nice atmospheric photographs as well!
  22. druxey
    Nice! Those will look good on your model.
  23. druxey
    Not much done this week, perhaps; but thanks for the eye candy!
  24. druxey
    Cunning dodge, Bill, on the poop deck bulkhead! Had you not pointed it out, I doubt if anyone would have noticed. Your secret is safe with us! Lovely work on those rails.
  25. druxey
    Thank you again, all, for visiting this log and for your comments. A small update. The corner seats forward of the coach have been made and installed. These were some trouble, and I made three sets before I was satisfied. Running the moulding along the edges where the grain direction changed was difficult, as there was a tendency for tear-out. Instead of wooden standards uniting the thwarts and sides, there are iron straps. On Prince Frederick's barge, the arm of the strap that runs across the thwart is inset flush to the thwart's surface. The side arm is bent as appropriate over the inner sides of the planking. This detail completes the structures in the rowing section. While the model is invertible without risk, I shall be cleaning up the outer sides of the planking and softening the edges of the laps. It is also time to make and fit the gudgeons.

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