druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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It's called 'putting your own stamp' on the model. Sorry, but you set that up beautifully for me, Richard!- 346 replies
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- 4
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- terror
- polar exploration
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Deck clamp notches
druxey replied to Dziadeczek's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
With all due respect, wq3296, the scores (not notches!) are maybe an inch or so deep, so would not really compromise strength. Besides, once the hanging and lodging knees are installed, the entire structure is considerably reinforced. -
Congratulations on being philatelically published! Now your work will be seen by an even wider public. Good stuff!
- 346 replies
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- 3
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- terror
- polar exploration
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Do read the planking tutorials on this site!
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We've missed you as well! Nice to see you back on the real job, Bruce.
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If you lay our the planking belts and strakes carefully, you may be able to manage without drop strakes or stealers. Have fun!
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I've never seen a description that uses a double block as opposed to two singles on a span to the stay.
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Unsticking White Glue
druxey replied to shortgrass's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If the joint is large, wrap a little piece of paper towel around it, soak with alcohol and wrap the whole thing up with Saran wrap. Rubber bands also help if it's possible to slip them on. Leave for 24 hours and everything should come nicely apart. Don't rush it or you are liable to damage the joint. I'd personally not poke the joint with a blade for the same reason. A little patience will pay off! -
Danny: your blocks look good for 18th century ones: modern ones are much less rounded off. If you have James Lees' book on rigging, you can see that the contemporary model photos show blocks that look like yours.
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The last video in my ...
druxey replied to P_Budzik's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Paul: I just came across your instructional for airbrushing. Congratulations on a very clear, concise and professional presentation of the subject. Well done! Your videos are to be highly recommended. -
British 'Termagant', 1780, ship-rigged Sloop - Info?
druxey replied to malachy's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Yes, the plan pricing is not cheap. However, i always console myself with the thought that the model will take, say, five years to build. So, the cost per plan per year is only 10 pounds! -
Does that mean you have some 'splinin' to do, Don?
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British 'Termagant', 1780, ship-rigged Sloop - Info?
druxey replied to malachy's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Now, Termagant is an interesting subject. I came across her sheer and profile plan many years ago and noticed that it shows a very early example of 'plug stock' rudder. Notice how the stern post is sloped away at the upper end so that the upper part of the rudder can turn in a small, circular helm port. This style of rudder was generally adopted by the Navy only some 25 to 30 years later. This alone will make her an extremely interesting model. -
How would you improve your Byrnes tools?
druxey replied to Keith_W's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Having read and looked at the examples of modifications on this thread, it seems that each person has his/her own preferences. All Byrnes needs to do is pre-drill and tap accessory holes of a standard thread on their machines, then everyone can then bolt on their own devices. -
Where were pump dales stowed when not in use? Great question. My guess is overhead, between two deck beams. However, if anyone has good contemporary evidence, I'd love to know.
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Captain Jerry: the purpose of the expansion is to show: a. the length of each plank b. shift of the planking butts c. ensure shifts of the inner and outer planking are offset from each other
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With all due respect, the planking expansion shows the pattern of planks, but they are distorted in the projected view. For instance, in the topside of the illustration of Squirrel, the midships planks actually curve in the opposite direction ('smiley'). Otherwise, virtually all the hull planks are cut on a curve, as you say.
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Whoever effected that 'repair' should be strung up from their own yard arm! I suppose they thought that no-one would ever notice??? And in a museum yet. Unbelievable. Anyway, Mobbish, best wishes for a proper restoration of what was once a very nice model.
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The other tip to prevent shrouds from bowing out or in is to tie every fifth ratline first, then add the intermediate ones.
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Nicely done, Giampiero!
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Looks good, Ben. Take Greg and Toni's advice, though: we've all had that experience, although it was another model maker who damaged the framing of one of my models....
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