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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Dick: I had no trouble planking with the frames recessed in the plug when the plug was well waxed.
  2. druxey
    Thanks for the explanation, Michael. That all makes sense to me now!
  3. druxey
    Steven: see my comments in my Greenwich Hospital barge log. With carvel planking, edge glued planks will not hold together as they do in a clinker build! There is insufficient gluing area for this. You'll also need to devise some method to stabilize the thin keel to keep it straight until the planking is on.
  4. druxey
    Thanks, everyone, for your comments. Steven: I've used this method with carvel construction, but with one difference: frames first. You can either file grooves in the plug for the frames and bend them in, or form the plug to inside of frame. I use the first method. In both cases the plug is made deeper and extends above the sheer line. (You can see this set back area in shadow in the photograph.) This area is used to spot-glue the frames to. Just make sure everything is well waxed to prevent sticking! The boat looks a little rough when first taken off the plug, but cleans up nicely as you can see.
  5. druxey
    Looking more and more respectable each time, John. Bien fait, monsieur!
  6. druxey
    So you saw 'in the air', without fixing the ring? I would think it difficult holding it in one hand while sawing with the other. Also, I'm not clear how the round 'L' shaped gizmo works. Would you mind explaining, please?
  7. druxey
    Off to a flying start, Jerry. And good lighting helps a lot!
  8. druxey
    Superb work, Albert. Keep those progress photos coming!
  9. druxey
    Three strakes a side completed now. Rubber bands and small soldering clips make fine hold-downs while roughly shaped planks are drying out.
  10. druxey
    Thank you, Mark! Jim: the strength of the assembly at this stage is surprising, even though the individual parts are so flimsy. If the planks are cut accurately so that there is no stress in the hull, it will not distort. In past experience, sometimes the breadth will expand slightly when the shell is complete, but this is easily corrected when the internal elements are added, producing a very strong model indeed. The barge I'm modelling is not the Prince Frederick's one in Mark's photos: this one, while similar, has far less carved work. However, it will be a lot of fun to do when I get there!
  11. druxey
    Nice details, Mark. Thank you. The carved works are wonderfully executed. The rowing benches on these barges do have a central element to them. The items I'm particularly interested in are the standards supporting the ends of the thwarts and whether there are also supporting standards above the transom. These cannot be seen on the usual photographs of the barge.
  12. druxey
    I smiled at the mention of gummed brown tape. This material was used to 'plank' a bulkhead style model I made when I was about ten or eleven years old. The result was much less successful (the bulkheads were too far apart) than your use of it in making some very nice mast hoops.
  13. druxey
    The second strake is in on the port side. One can see the gain at the bow and stern, as well as how the boat keeps its shape when taken off the plug. From here on it is simply a matter of spiling and shaping each plank as I work up (down!) to the sheer strake. All one need do is make sure to conform to the mark-out on the plug.
  14. druxey
    We could say the same of you, Glenn!
  15. druxey
    Only switch from x if there is compelling and overwhelming evidence from y! That set of lines looks very nice, John.
  16. druxey
    Mark: if you have detail photos of the interior of the forward part of that vessel and near the tiller, posting those would be very helpful. Thanks for the kind offer. Yes, these crafts were very lightly built but surprisingly strong. Think of them as predecessors of today's 'eights' rowing shells. These two photos show how the lap disappears into the rabbet at the bow. The second strake also has a rolling bevel that fits the one on the edge of the first strake. You can also see that there is no gap along the lap, as the bevel that was sanded in takes care if this. PVA glue was applied with a very small brush and any excess cleaned up immediately.
  17. druxey
    Here are a couple of photographs of the land - the bevel - being sanded on the edge of the garboard and of the gain at the end of the rabbet (arrowed). The gain is basically a rolling bevel. It ends at 45 degrees so that the next plank will come in flush at the rabbet. Essentially clinker becomes carvel over the last 9" or 12" of the strake.
  18. druxey
    Great stuff, Glenn! The original designer of these flywheels was very ingenious. To reproduce these in miniature you also had to be!
  19. druxey
    As Oscar Wilde said, "You will, you will," Michael!
  20. druxey
    A little more time was spent on completing the starboard garboard strake. The next step is to shape the lands for the second strake of planking. If one were to omit this step, the second strake would not have any gluing surface and there would be a gap under the strake, A. Obviously, a bevel is required. It varies in angle along the strake according to hull curvature, B. To cut this accurately, I took some scrap wood the width of a strake and rubber cemented some 220 grit sandpaper along one edge, C. Keeping the 'safe' corner of this along the mark-out of the second strake's far edge, it is easy to shape the correct bevel along the installed strake. The next instalment will show this completed. A note: I found the short pins under the keel not very effective in holding the keel straight, as the keel kept popping off. On a another long narrow hull I would drill the pins all the way through the keel. A digression: One side effect of modelling an open boat at this small scale is the amount of wood required to build it. Very little is needed, making this a very economic exercise in materials, but not in time.
  21. druxey
    Michael: I cut the stock several thou over-thick on a Byrnes saw with a micrometer adjustable fence. I then process it through his thickness sander to within .004" of finished dimension. A fine sanding block removes sanding marks and completes the prepared stock. The leaves I'm using are just under ¾" wide. George: gesso is the (usually) white compound artists use to prime canvases. These days it has an acrylic base. Once dry, one can sand it to a very smooth surface. Any reputable art store will carry gesso. (The word is pronounced with a hard 'g', as in 'jesso' - or 'George'!) Thanks again for the 'likes', folks.
  22. druxey
    Exemplary work, Karl!
  23. druxey
    Surprisingly little pigment powder is required to color glue. I prefer to mix a small amount of pigment into paste with water before mixing with white glue. As Ed says, the mix will dry much darker than the liquid glue. Please wear respiratory protection as the pigment powder is very fine and easily becomes airborne.
  24. druxey
    Frankie: lead deteriorates at a rate dependent on the atmosphere and temperature it's exposed to. I've seen lead 'fuzz' in comparatively recent models and still undeteriorated lead in older models. Either way, it's toxic stuff and needs to be handled and disposed of appropriately. I've currently got a model for conservation with about 70-year old corroded lead cell batteries in it. They (and the lead-based paint that's flaking off) go to the hazardous waste disposal site.
  25. druxey
    Further progress. The garboard is in on the port side and the forward plank on the starboard. The interesting thing is that, at any point in planking, provided one has spiled and shaped the plank to lie without stress, one can remove the model from the plug and it will retain its shape.

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