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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. No pins in the bitts, in my opinion, Siggi. The rails at the bulwarks are where lines were belayed at that time period. Other lines tied off at the bitts around the crosspiece and standard timberheads.
  2. A most graphic description of a magazine explosion!
  3. There is only one woolding on the mizzen mast, at the bottom of the hounds, Sigge. If there were more, the gaff would not be able to slide up and down without catching. Clearly, the mizen mast is not a made mast. Your furniture - especially the table, Windsor chairs and cabinetry - is lovely. I imagine books were all leather-bound back then. Somehow the yellow book jumps out at me. The large number of belaying pins in racks and on the cross-pieces began to appear once the open rails along the quarter deck and poop were closed in. It was then no longer possible to belay along the rails. So you would not see many belaying pins in 1760, as all the rails were open then. The partners at poop level would be very light, so just the circle of wedges around the mast would be visible, as in your last photo.
  4. Another book that may assist: The Fireship Comet of 1783, SeaWatchBooks. This has an extensive section on the stern and quarter galleries as well as the headwork and carved works.
  5. A one-piece deck is only realistic if there is no tumblehome on the topsides. If there is, one can't get a wide deck through a narrower space!
  6. Very neat tabled scarph joints as well!
  7. I know that in British practice, the merchant ships were plated from above to the the keel, but it was from keel to wale in Navy yards! This explains Edwin Fox, a merchant ship. Then there are the French.... It now appears to me that the illustration posted (Planche VII) that the overlap is such that one starts at the wale and works down. (I clicked the illustration to enlarge it this time.) Sorry if I created confusion in your mind, Mark!
  8. With all due respect, the drawing shows the overlaps in such a way so one needs to start at the keel aft and work forward, strake by strake upward.
  9. I'm glad that things are on course again for you, Bob. That's good to hear. For those that are thinking of getting this volume - do. It's a full colour production with first and second-rate ships and eye-candy galore from the Rogers' Collection.
  10. Draft marks were 6" high and 6" apart, so one could estimate the number of inches between feet that the ship drew. Nice example of lead over copper, jbshan.
  11. I suspect tarred felt may have been used as 'insulator' between copper and lead. I believe it was an 18th century feature, Jason. The draught marks were usually of lead also. Before copper sheathing, the draught marks appear to have been incised into stem and stern posts. The marks were often filled with red paint, judging by contemporary models that show this feature.
  12. Looks like you've both become unhinged.... Seriously, those are terrific looking miniature hinges that actually work.
  13. Also, see Gaetan Bordeleau's Le Fleuron latest posting for a good alternative lo-tech solution.
  14. In the lower diagram the shroud is right hand lay. If the twist in your own shrouds runs mirror image to this, you have a left hand lay. Also, look at the orientation of the lower deadeye, Captain Al. It is opposite to the upper one. Looks like your photos show the lower ones oriented incorrectly.
  15. The best reference I know is in Seamanship in the Days of Sail by John Harland and Mark Myers. They describe and illustrate just about every conceivable operation in a sailing ship throughout different eras. It's a great reference. You can probably find a copy on a used book site such as www.abebooks.com
  16. The pictures show that the last lap of the laniard is running up to the wrong place. It should run up behind the upper deadeye and thread out through the gap in the shroud just above the deadeye before wrapping around both legs of the shroud and tying off.
  17. Interesting sheer plan and comments/quotes above, gentlemen. I assume the small rectangular shapes along the side above the wale are ventilation scuttles? If so, they seem to be placed tight against the deck level indicated. Is this correct? Usually they are lower, to clear the deck clamps.
  18. Are you reeving the laniards in the right sequence? If they are on 'backwards', there will be the tendency to twist. (The twisting may well originate with the lay of the shroud above.)
  19. Nicely done! By the way, 'ears' is the correct term for these small knees.
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