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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Thanks for the scale slotted screws, Michael. I knew you could do them!
  2. Those are interesting figures, Gaetan. Thanks for posting them. I assume therefore that the slight acidity does not affect wood but is sufficient, in combination with UV light, to deteriorate rigging cotton, linen or silk.
  3. Would Austrian archives possibly have information if these were captured ships?
  4. Well achieved, Albert! That's the most difficult part of the model done.
  5. You might wish to consider conservators' (microcrystalline) wax: it is colourless and pH neutral.
  6. I suppose the screws for the hinges will be scale slot-headed ones as well? Those are lovely looking hinge knuckles, Michael.
  7. Looking ship-shape and Bristol fashion, Ben. You may wish to consider shortening those bolts so that they don't project above the keel, otherwise they will be in the way of the frames later on.
  8. I use an off-the-shelf bottle of deionized water. Usually I think it's intended for steam irons. Try your local supermarket household aisle.
  9. What you do with modelling clay in small sizes is very, very impressive!
  10. I use my blackening agent at between 8:1 and 10:1 with deionized water and get good, if slower, results. And no flakiness either. See if that helps.
  11. Lovely work. I do notice, however, that in the photos the blackened surfaces look a bit blotchy. Try buffing with a soft cloth or Q-tip and you should get a nice, even low-sheen finish. Do protect the wood, though, now that the metal is in place.
  12. If you've never done cant frames before, don't be discouraged if you have to take more than one run at them. We all did the first (and sometimes the second) time! You'll be breaking out the isopropanol at some point with the best of us. But, with persistence, you'll win.
  13. Well done on those double-ring stanchions, Dan. Having done them myself, with much cursing, I know just how tricky they can be! Your solution looks great.
  14. Your accurate mark-out of the building board will more than pay off soon! Nicely executed, Ben.
  15. Always a pleasure to see your progress, Gaetan! She's one magnificent monster of a model.
  16. Get the outline of the counter drawn out using a piece of tracing paper. Then play around on the tracing until the spacing and slope of the lettering looks right. Transfer the design back on to the counter using transfer paper. This is like graphite paper, only comes in different colours, including white. One can find transfer paper at craft stores like Michael's. Then you are ready to paint with confidence.
  17. Congratulations on reaching the milestone at the end of Volume I, Remco. Well done indeed!
  18. This is all excellent advice. Thank you for expressing it so clearly, Alistair. This posting should be 'pinned' for reference.
  19. The model makers there look like zombies: they've been at it far too long!
  20. Did I ever mention palliasses? Did I? Well, you beat me to it, Remco. Now, about those fleas.... Joking aside, that is beautifully done. Congratulations!
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