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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Admiralty Models will be running workshops on sailmaking later this Fall. See their web site.
  2. Part of the issue seems to be the wing transom. The upper outer corner should meet the aft side of the last frame at an angle, not a curve.
  3. There are three planking tutorials right here on MSW. Take a look at them first.
  4. Yes, the topmast would need to be lowered from time to time, so a fid would be required. It would need to sit squarely on the trestle trees.
  5. Assuming that the cross and trestle trees are set parallel to the waterline, no special arrangement would be needed other than the space for the topmast to pass through would need to be slightly oblong rather than square, and the fid hole cut in the topmast heel so that the fid was normal to the trestle trees. Or am I in error?
  6. John Cole's advice is sound, as is Jim Lad's suggestion that you read the articles that are available right here on MSW. To start with, take a look at the tutorials on planking.
  7. Yes, that clamp is a tough one to get in nicely. I'm sure the original shipwrights were thinking the same as you as they wrestled it into shape and place! Well done, Mark.
  8. Now I'm seeing things - a scale pelican???? Lovely looking stern, too.
  9. I'm sure that there are tutorials on the 'net, particularly among folk who build dioramas. Try searching under 'diorama painting techniques'.
  10. I note that it is almost exactly a year (OK, less a week!) since you began this model. It is amazing at what you have achieved in that time. Well done, Ed!
  11. Your problems that white metal is not pewter or brass. Each metal has its own chemistry and the solution for one metal will either not work, or works poorly, on a different metal or alloy. You can see that the formula for each is very different: White metal is an alloy of any of the following: antimony, tin, lead, cadmium, bismuth and/or zinc. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. Pewter is an alloy of tin, with small amounts of copper, antimony, bismuth and, occasionally, lead.
  12. Getting fine debris out from below is an issue, Ed. A narrow home-made nozzle extension on a vacuum will only work to a point. My only other strategy is a tedious one: a dampened pointed brush and laboriously picking out particles, piece by piece. Anyone else have a better solution?
  13. For non-German speakers: 'Flacheisen': flat iron bar 'Rundeisen': round iron bar 'Stutzknie aus hotlz': wooden standard
  14. I found that excess glue was best removed after the frames were in. A fine-tipped brush and isopropanol (a small section at a time) softened any excess glue, and then a miniature chisel tip could scrape off the gummy remnants nicely. Time consuming? Yes, but the result was satisfying.
  15. Actually, you should be able to remove the shell from the plug at any point in planking. It's amazing how it keeps its shape without distorting if you've spiled the planks properly. Looks great so far!
  16. Those companion ladders give a sense of how large the ship really was! Lovely work, Zbigniew.
  17. If the overlaps were sanded to an angle as described in the instructions, then the gluing surfaces should hold when she comes off the plug.
  18. If you nailed that cross-chock first time around, then you are a Master!
  19. Dave: I think the apparent over-width is due to the overlap required for the second strake.
  20. That is very nicely done: especially the shrouds at the mast head. Well done, Doris!
  21. Yes, Maury: make the forward plank of the garboard strake first. You can then place it exactly into the stem rabbet. The aft plank will be (comparatively) easy!
  22. Ian: maybe you should offer to buy Ed's offcuts! Just don't try to pass them off as your own.
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