druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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There it is! The black lines are external planking and the red the internal. It's hard to sort them out at such a small size, but much easier to distinguish at 1:48 scale. This drawing was actually done in the shipyard as the ship was being built! -
The one in April is a one-day affair in New London, near to Mystic, run by the joint North-West Ship Model Societies. The NRG Conference is a three day(?) one in October.
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I think the widest marks were placed with the letters tight against each other, as the example from the NMM. These were from the wreck of the Royal George, sunk in 1782.
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That is great news that the Hornet planking scheme is once more available! It is truly authentic.
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That certainly looks much more like other cutter draughts I've seen, Christian. Just make sure that the joints in the keelson alternate with the joint in the keel (at about C and 9). They need to be as far apart from each other for strength.
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Welcome back, Alan! It must be good to see sawdust flying, I'm sure. Our success rate improves with experience, so don't be discouraged. Enjoy your new disc sander.
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That Cheerful draught is unusual: if it was drawn that way, it must have been done like that. However, I'd say that was most unusual. The strength of the joints would be compromised and more bolts would need removing to replace the forefoot or gripe piece. The attached image is rather small, but demonstrates my point. (If you click on it, it will enlarge.) Note the keel joint at around station 6, aft.
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Some ships' draught marks were made of sheet lead: some have been recovered from wrecks.
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Agreed, Chuck: that would be my conclusion as well!
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Well, the Holman painting certainly muddies the waters! However, I think there is another clue on contemporary plans. If there is only a rail above the port opening, there is no 'meat' to fix port hooks. Therefore no lids. However, if there is at least one strake of plank above the port, then that would provide material for the hooks and hinges. Look at the Holman painting again: one strake of plank over the ports with lids. Cheerful/Surly fall into the first category. Conclusion: no port lids. I rest my case, m'lud.
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Admiralty Models is running sailmaking workshops shortly.
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I suspect bucklers were the thing if freeboard were low, making her a 'wet' ship. Otherwise, port coverings on an open deck make no sense.
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Looking very nice, Christian. However, I suspect that the joints in the stem would be staggered as I've re-drawn. (Based on NMM draughts of other Revenue cutters. For instance, see Skylark, 1821) You might wish to consider this. Usually the keel would be only two pieces.
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You should be able to cut and fit hanging knees in your sleep by now, Ed! She's looking beautiful.
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Lovely draught marks, Remco! Are you putting them on the stern post as well?
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Love that drop plank at the bow!
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For technical information and plans from the surveyed wreck, the book you might consider is Mary Rose, Your Noblest Shippe edited by Peter Marsden. It comes in a slip covered set: one book and a folio of plans.
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She must be Jason of 1794: note the golden fleece!
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Nicely adapted from Ionic capital geometric construction, Mark. Now let's see it translated into 3D reality!
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Ed; you wrote: "I made the deck hook in two pieces to save on wood and was not too particular about the way the pieces are joined since this will all be covered by decking and the forecastle." Your 'not too particular' is other folks' excellence!
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Well done. The lofting was obviously correct and your workmanship excellent, Juergen!
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Tartarus was one of the Thais class of fireship, built to the same lines as Comet, but far less decorated. Wasp was lucky, as Tartarus and her sister ships were very fast.
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Guess you wanted your model to have room to breathe, Toni! You probably left the fillers out because the spacers were in your way.
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The edge should be sharp enough to act as a scraper. It would be difficult to put an even burr on a tiny profile. If the scraper does get dull, hone the flat sides of it to restore the edges.
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For small shapes, use escapement files (watchmakers' supplies or eBay). A piece of old hacksaw blade, softened by heating to cherry red and air cooled, makes an excellent and durable scraper. Light cuts with little pressure to gradually form the moulding are best: heavy cuts will tend to wander.
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