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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    That seems strange, Richard. I assume that it really is copper that you have there. Perhaps someone else can suggest what is going wrong.
  2. druxey
    I agree with you, Alan! I'm no fan of megastores either (as you could probably tell).
  3. druxey
    You might try that big, ugly Pro Bass shop in the new mega-shopping centre at Glendale and the QEW.
  4. druxey
    Are all the surfaces clean of all dirt or grease? Are the surfaces in close contact? These are the two most common causes of joint failure.
  5. druxey
    You are a brave man: carving those rails already in place!
  6. druxey
    Bee-ootiful, Ed! Your comments on 19th century paint are interesting. I agree that oil based paints dry to a glossy finish, but the addition of turpentine as drying agent will tend to flatten the finish somewhat. Without drying agents in the paint, the film would take weeks if not months to polymerize, i.e. 'dry'. I imagine that the shipyard would have used some turpentine in their paint mix.
  7. druxey
    There are many good books on period rigging. Underhill is certainly one. Another you might consider is Longridge's Cutty Sark.
  8. druxey
    Lovely work, Siggi. You've trained your workers well. Prost!
  9. druxey
    Picking will clean off corrosive flux by-products as well as oxidation on the parts.
  10. druxey
    If sails were to be bent to the square yards, one would need the usual assortment of blocks for buntlines, clueless and leechlines attached. Also there would surely be footropes. I believe there were also jackstays fitted during this time period. Presumably there would be mast hoops and brail blocks for the fore and aft sails as well.
  11. druxey
    Also, look at the Gallery of Contemporary Models on this site, the model of Trial (page 2). This collection of photographs by members of models in museums is an invaluable resource and inspiration.
  12. druxey
    The problem is that virtually any finish forms a sealing film over the wood surfaces. This will always interfere with a good glue bond. There are only three possible solutions: 1) Apply finish only when construction is complete. 2) Scrape off the finish wherever you need to apply glue. 3) Do not apply any finish. The first method is simpler. However, you will need to exercise ingenuity to get into tight corners. The second is labor-intensive and still may not guarantee a good bond. The third method is almost fool-proof. Eternal gratitude accepted!
  13. druxey
    I guess copper bolts might turn green! I assume that the scarph joints for the frames are deliberate, rather than the chocks that were actually used?
  14. druxey
    Kits aren't necessarily historically correct, Rick. Some are better than others, others are flights of fancy. The open exposed toptimbers are more representative of 19th century and early 20th century fishing craft. If you are interested in historically accurate models, there are many, many good books available on the subject.
  15. druxey
    While Ollie's model is nicely done, it does not represent a typical Naval cutter circa 1800. The contemporary Science Museum's model is a better guide. There are no exposed timber heads on the inner bulwarks.
  16. druxey
    Dear Alex, Those are good examples of cross-sectional drawings you have cited. I absolutely agree that the earlier ones show more of a 'birdsbeak' joint amidships. However, was that actually how the rabbet/garboard joint was carried out in the shipyard?
  17. druxey
    The usual convention in drawings shows the rabbet as your version 1. In reality it would look like versions 2 and 3. This was not a dumb question, Dave.
  18. druxey
    Some sub-assemblies work: where there is a flat mating surface, such as deadwood to keel. Some are near impossible, unless you are the world's most accurate model maker. The curved stem to knee of the head joint is an example. In that instance, one piece at a time is a better strategy. However, if you want to find out the hard way.... So, the Subaru 4-wheel drive got you to work this morning? Do you get merit points for making it in?
  19. druxey
    Not sure about tattoo procedures, but two possible ways of transferring patterns to wood are: 1) Graphite paper. This is similar to old-fashioned carbon paper but not greasy or messy. Place a sheet face down over the wood, the paper pattern on top and press through the design with a sharp hard pencil tip. 2) Rubber cement. Coat the wood surface and the back of the paper pattern and allow to dry. Press the surfaces together like contact cement. Cut out to part, then peel off the paper. Rub any remaining rubber cement off the wood with a piece of crepe rubber.
  20. druxey
    Well, you are a prolific modelmaker, with time for pysanky as well! Nice work on the pintles and straps, Toni.
  21. druxey
    Don't try to clean up the curve with the stem yet, or glue up all the knee of the head components! Make and glue up the stem pieces and keel first, then fit each individual piece of the knee of the head to the stem. Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy and overflow your scrap box.
  22. druxey
    Lovely so far, Ben. Congratulations! What's next? The counter timbers?
  23. druxey
    This is brilliant, Kurt! I've been putting off inventory of my library for a long time. I guess there's no more excuses now.... Thanks for the link.
  24. druxey
    Lovely bit of miniature machining, wefalck!
  25. druxey
    I've had no problem with the Proxxon table, which I've been using for several years. Yes, the hand wheels are a bit small in 'throw' and not the most comfortable such as on my watchmakers' cross-slide, but they are useable. I placed a dot of red paint on the '0' of the hand wheels and yellow at the '5', which makes life much easier when counting off turns and decimal fractions of a turn.

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