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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    For a ship that size, I think the hawse holes would have a diameter of about 27cm to 30cm. Is that close to what your plans show?
  2. druxey
    Thanks for this url, Wayne. I'd come across Judichaer's name a number of times and it was interesting to read about his life and career. The examination and analysis of the model was also fascinating.
  3. druxey
    The hawse hole size is related to the anchor cable size. That, in turn, is related to the size of the ship. Perhaps if you can tell us the known factors, one can calculate or estimate the unknown in this case. Glad you figured out the circle/ellipse paradox!
  4. druxey
    One usually pulls on an oar as one faces toward the stern. It seems to me that the illustration is correct, but not the model.
  5. druxey
    They are - or ought to be - circular. Depending on the angle of your viewing a hawse, it may look circular or elliptical. Remember that not only does the hole appear on an angled surface, but the hole itself is usually drilled at an angle. It lies at a downward angle as it goes outboard, and its path was also often slightly curved.
  6. druxey
    Looking good,Toni!
  7. druxey
    Terrific, Michael. Working spark plugs! Who else would have thought of it? Sorry to read of your wife's health issues. I hope things will continue to improve for her. I'm sure it's a stressful time for you. Best wishes.
  8. druxey
    Looking beautiful, Albert!
  9. druxey
    Wayne, do you have a copy of Ships and Science by Larrie D. Ferreiro? There is great discussion on the evolution of naval architecture in Europe and England during the scientific revolution in the time period 1600 to 1800. The content of this book is germaine to your enquiry.
  10. druxey
    A variant of this technique that I've used is to take a piece of round stock. Drill out one end, then shape the hole to square or oblong as needed and put it in the collet or chuck.
  11. druxey
    Festina lente. Make haste slowly: take your time. After all, this is more than a single weekend project! If i get to the point of impatience, I walk away for a bit and remind myself that, as you quoted, 'each piece is a model'. Even if I've only completed one piece; if it's up to standard, there's a feeling of accomplishment.
  12. druxey
    Good to know you're still alive and kicking, Gary! Hopefully you'll soon get serious model making time back again. In the meantime, take care.
  13. druxey
    Planking with a minimum number of - or no - stealers at all is quite possible and practical, except in the case of an extremely full, bluff bow. It is a matter of taking time to plan the planking layout and run of strakes before ever laying a single plank. Planking by the seat of one's pants will not end well!
  14. druxey
    Brilliant work, Wefalck. Your toothpick will gain mythical status like another miniature model maker's Tic Tac.
  15. druxey
    There's your problem, Mark: confusing pedalling (as in bicycling) with peddling (selling cheap stuff door to door). Sorry. Couldn't resist that one!
  16. druxey
    If it is soft enough to bend, always bend it over a shaped form as Keith suggests. The metal probably has a low melting point, so be very careful about heating it! Good luck with the project.
  17. druxey
    Thanks for these bios and mug shots, Toni. Now I understand why Mark's name is 'MarcusBotanicus'! Thank you also to the lady and gents for serving on the Board of the NRG.
  18. druxey
    Well done, Chuck! Now there will be no excuse to see sloppy planking from anywhere in the New Jersey area.
  19. druxey
    A jig to hold the square and tapered blank at 45 degrees, a small plane or chisel to make it eight-sided, then sandpaper to round is the most reliable way. I use a very well honed chisel, bevel side down, myself.
  20. druxey
    In order to answer the question properly, one would need to know of what metal these are made. Is the metal soft enough to bend under pressure without heat?
  21. druxey
    It's better to ask questions than mess up, so ask away! I agree with Frankie that using aggressive solvents is to be avoided if possible. Suspect that Salamander Restorative is some varnish softening/dissolving formulation from on-line comments.
  22. druxey
    The most reliable way of removing dust accumulations is using Q-tips (and lots of them!) plus saliva. Seriously. This is what professionals use. Moisten the cotton in your mouth and gently swab a small area. Try to roll the swab rather than scrub with it. Repeat as necessary until you are down to wood or paint. (Don't put the same end of the swab back in your mouth!) Needless to say, this will take some time to do.
  23. druxey
    Well done!
  24. druxey
    Maybe you weren't pedalliing fast enough, Mark....
  25. druxey
    Aaargh! Do none of you folk use scale rules yet?

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