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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Good to know you're still alive and kicking, Gary! Hopefully you'll soon get serious model making time back again. In the meantime, take care.
  2. druxey
    Planking with a minimum number of - or no - stealers at all is quite possible and practical, except in the case of an extremely full, bluff bow. It is a matter of taking time to plan the planking layout and run of strakes before ever laying a single plank. Planking by the seat of one's pants will not end well!
  3. druxey
    Brilliant work, Wefalck. Your toothpick will gain mythical status like another miniature model maker's Tic Tac.
  4. druxey
    There's your problem, Mark: confusing pedalling (as in bicycling) with peddling (selling cheap stuff door to door). Sorry. Couldn't resist that one!
  5. druxey
    If it is soft enough to bend, always bend it over a shaped form as Keith suggests. The metal probably has a low melting point, so be very careful about heating it! Good luck with the project.
  6. druxey
    Thanks for these bios and mug shots, Toni. Now I understand why Mark's name is 'MarcusBotanicus'! Thank you also to the lady and gents for serving on the Board of the NRG.
  7. druxey
    Well done, Chuck! Now there will be no excuse to see sloppy planking from anywhere in the New Jersey area.
  8. druxey
    A jig to hold the square and tapered blank at 45 degrees, a small plane or chisel to make it eight-sided, then sandpaper to round is the most reliable way. I use a very well honed chisel, bevel side down, myself.
  9. druxey
    In order to answer the question properly, one would need to know of what metal these are made. Is the metal soft enough to bend under pressure without heat?
  10. druxey
    It's better to ask questions than mess up, so ask away! I agree with Frankie that using aggressive solvents is to be avoided if possible. Suspect that Salamander Restorative is some varnish softening/dissolving formulation from on-line comments.
  11. druxey
    The most reliable way of removing dust accumulations is using Q-tips (and lots of them!) plus saliva. Seriously. This is what professionals use. Moisten the cotton in your mouth and gently swab a small area. Try to roll the swab rather than scrub with it. Repeat as necessary until you are down to wood or paint. (Don't put the same end of the swab back in your mouth!) Needless to say, this will take some time to do.
  12. druxey
    Well done!
  13. druxey
    Maybe you weren't pedalliing fast enough, Mark....
  14. druxey
    Aaargh! Do none of you folk use scale rules yet?
  15. druxey
    The cross-piece should be 5' 6" long, Remco.
  16. druxey
    I've no idea if resin will affect an RTV mould if you want to subsequently use it for metal. I use Micro Mark's lead-free pewter, MP 575F. No problem with propane, which I do in my home workshop. I've no idea to what temperature butane will heat. The propane torch I use is a Canadian Tire one that has non-refillable cylinders. I'm sure that the equivalent item is available in the U.S.
  17. druxey
    Very nice planking job there! Well done, Lee.
  18. druxey
    That 'standard' at the bow is called an 'ear', I believe!
  19. druxey
    Three teeth in the work at a time is a good rule of thumb. I suspect you are using too fine a blade and/or trying to feed too rapidly.
  20. druxey
    Excuse the question, but why is a propane torch not an option for you? I've found this, with a cast iron ladle, the most convenient way of melting and pouring pewter. Lovely work, Mark.
  21. druxey
    I agree with Gaetan: there is no comparison with surgical blades to Exacto ones. Of course, they are not intended for heavy cutting. (A Languinole, Gaetan? A very lovely tool for large whittling or carving and, as you say, a beautiful blade!)
  22. druxey
    Also note the pin rack in the mizzen chains on Medway!
  23. druxey
    That is such a shame: your work looks lovely otherwise. The glue appears to have wicked into the wood, so I doubt if there is any remedy for the problem other than perhaps trying acetone. This is wicked stuff and should only be used in a well ventilated space, with organic solvent respiratory protection and absolutely no spark or flame in the vicinity. Myself, I would never use CA glue anywhere at all on a quality model. White and yellow glue is good for wood and epoxy for wood/metal joints.
  24. druxey
    I assume you cut the wrong side of the lower stem scarph away, Alan? I seem to recall having done that once myself, years ago! I feel your pain.
  25. druxey
    Sweet!

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