druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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50-gun ship by newbee - 1/72 scale
druxey replied to newbee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Good things do take time, you know! Looks like you are on your way, Newbee. -
Holly tones down nicely after a few years. Is that a possible compromise? Some 18th century models' cabins were painted with in a pale eau-de-nil green or light blue.
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And your opinion of this new book, please?
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Ah! A great collective noun is suggested by the photo of your clamps clamping the deck clamp (is that clear?): 'a grip of clamps'. Thank you, Mark! Those deck clamps look great as well.
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Terrific work, as usual, Ed! Would marking, say, the top timber height of every third or fourth toptimber and running a light batten to get the intermediate ones have been a option? I'm curious as to why you used the height gauge to measure every last one.
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No. However, a larger scale mock-up with modelied clay sculptures should help you figure out how to carve them in wood. I've found that process to be helpful on other models, an example of which is attached.
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Sorry about your early snowfall, Michael. Fire up that wood stove! Great way to use up your scrap wood....
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So, one of your ships has finally been found! I guess you'll need to rename yourself EorT, for the moment.
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This framing photo shows you how the wing transom is shaped at the outer corners. (This model is of a sixth rate, so is smaller and has less transoms than a 74, but is essentially similar.) Note the smooth run of the filling transoms' surfaces up to the margin line. There is no sharp turn or bend, which appears on your frame grab.
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Whether to impress, drill and fill with coloured wax, or actually treenail is very much a personal preference. If you do some other test pieces using the different techniques you can see which appeals to you best.
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Michael: take a look at the three planking articles pinned on this site. That will help you understand planking better.
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Ah, 'twas ever thus in pursuit of perfection.... Hopefully the re-do will satisfy you. Look forward to seeing your progress.
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Oh, dear. Your disease is worse than I thought. I'm so sorry, E&T....
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Terrific research, E&T. How did you determine the number and titles of the books Crozier had along? Just kidding.
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I believe some minor errors were corrected in the second edition.
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Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
druxey replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Any reasonable brand of chisel will do. Lee Valley Tools have a good selection. The key is sharpening it. Take a look at Lee Valley's sharpening jig (Mark II Honing Guide) and water stones. Until I got these (many years ago now!) I could never cut a good clean joint. Once I learned how to properly sharpen and hone my tools I amazed myself at what I could do with them. They also have a good book on sharpening tools properly. Start out with a ⅜" or ½" bevel edged chisel, then add others as and when you need them. Disclaimer: other than as a long-time customer of LV, I have no other connection with them. -
Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
druxey replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
With practice and a sharp chisel, you should be able to cut consistent joints. Accurate mark-out is also critical. -
Possibly consider using your computer to print this out at very high resolution?
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Looking good so far, Altalena!
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I seem to recall brake fluid will do the trick without damaging the plastic but, before you do that, check with an on-line plastic model making site.
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It's always nice to see a model of a subject that's more unusual. Scroll saw skills improve with a bit of practice. I find a fine blade, tensioned properly, and a good light improved my success rate considerably.
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Nice corrective surgery, Ed. The beams and knees will ensure that the hull form stays put later, right?
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Thanks for sharing your research and findings, E&T. Excellent sleuthing!
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Part of the answer here (apart from the good advice already given) is the kind of wood you are using. Most wood supplied with kits is far too coarse-grained for the purpose. If you look at Mr. Jacquith's photos, you can barely see any grain structure in the wood he uses. There are several species that are suitable and really nice to use for model making, including holly, pear and Castello. Suppliers like The Hobbymill (see 'sponsors' on the home page of this site) stock these and will cut them to your specs.
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The best way? Don't use CA at all!
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