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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Alex: that's exactly the reason I asked whether the plan was an 'as built' one or not.
  2. John: that's an interesting photo; the holes are on all faces, but offset from each other. As you say, later; but a nice example!
  3. Deck plans of Revenue cutters I've looked at show (where bar holes are indicated at all) that these are on every other face. If you think about it, it makes sense. Holes in every face would weaken the windlass when strain was placed against one side of the hole and there was little wood between it and the next hole. The few models where photos show the windlass: the same applies. However, it's your call, Chuck.
  4. Enjoy the movie, Dad: your optic receptors for pink and purple will probably burn out.... That is an ingenious solution to making a windlass. Well done! However, are the bar holes on all octagonal faces or should they be only on alternate ones?
  5. I'm not happy with the explanation, gentlemen. If the difference between the dashed line and inner rabbet line is the thickness of the frame - or bollard timber - one would expect the distance between those lines to increase the further down one goes, not have it taper out to nothing. This need further examination.
  6. Is the drawing an 'as designed', 'as built' or ' as altered'? Or is there no clue on the drawing as to which of these it might be?
  7. All the frames, etc., are fully lofted on the plan set, Alessandro.
  8. What calibre, date and length are the cannons you are looking for?
  9. The author will be giving a talk on this fireship at the upcoming NRG Conference as well.
  10. You will still need to check fairness with some buttock lines and proof diagonals, Alan.
  11. I agree: contemporary models show these also in white.
  12. Never buy a cheapie. It's a snare and delusion. You'll never regret getting a quality tool, be it machine or hand tool.
  13. Best wishes as you seek a new job, Doris. The model(s) look lovely.
  14. 18th century plank lengths were generally 24' 0" to 28' 0".
  15. I wonder how many tons of iron were used in the real ship for all those bolts? Beautifully executed as usual, Ed.
  16. Impressive record, Garward. Congratulations and well done!
  17. Never mind the advertisement 'Guard the Vital Zone' on page 99! Ah, those far off days of 1932 with all those tobacco ads.....
  18. Are you referring to Turner's sketch in the Tate Gallery ("The Victory, from quarter deck to poop", 1805)? It can be seen on the Tate Gallery site.
  19. Usually a little more: 12" to 15" is the range.
  20. Jewelers' supply houses carry a full range of metal chemical colorants.
  21. Most modern texts don't deal with this issue at all, and it is not well described in primary sources.
  22. There has been much discussion on where the taper begins. In a large scale model it will be apparent if the keel is not tapered: the stern post will be too wide at the bottom, and the fore end of the gripe (lowest part of the stem timbers) will appear too 'fat'. I taper my models' keels starting where the cant frames (those that are placed at varying angles to the keel) commence fore and aft. May I recommend you read some books on the ships of the era you are interested in?
  23. This has been discussed many times before on MSW. My take is that ebony is a beautiful specie to use - on furniture, not models. As mentioned by many, it doesn't bend easily, does not glue well, dust is nasty and toxic to some folk... need I go on? Ebonising is most easily accomplished by wood or leather dye. I find the latter works well for me. After painting the shaped and sanded piece with dye, I buff the finish with a paper towel and I'm done. Pear, holly or Costello all take dye well.
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