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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Bower anchor project by Sizzolo
druxey replied to Sizzolo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
A very informative discussion of actually seeing what Steel describes carried out in detail! Thank you, Sizzolo and Trevor. By the way, I found applying the line over the buoy rope at 1:48 a real challenge. Your example is beautifully done. -
Fair you well, then!
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Good going, Chris! She looks great,
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Power tools always seem to come back and bite....
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- Northwest passage
- Norway.
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Well done so far! Triangular ringbolts? Yes, they are tricky. I cut a hardwood stick to the inside dimensions and drill a small hole through. One end of the wire, well annealed, is inserted in the drilled hole and the wire wrapped tightly around the stick. The assembly is then held securely in a soft jawed vise. (I use disposable pieces of illustration board, rubber cemented in place.) The rings are parted off using a fine jewelers' saw blade. The tiny gap in each rig is closed up and optionally soldered.
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Bullseyes & Lanyard - some help please.
druxey replied to Capt. Kelso's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The other big difference between a bullseye and heart is that the heart has grooves in it to accept the turns of the laniard so that the crushing effect Trevor mentioned is eliminated. -
Hippo, hippo, hurray! Laser-cut guides burned too deep, not so good.
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Don't knock it. It still works fine after all these years!
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And I still use my old electric drill powered Meccano ropewalk!
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Now, that is impressive, JD!
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Line on my home-made ropewalk is less than 5' 0" long - more than enough length for 1:48 scale rigging.
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Actually, the rudder should sit a little high; if the ship takes ground, the rudder won't get torn off.
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Those tilted Corinthian capitals are exceptional! Well done.
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I anneal brass tube, cut off slices and put them in a thickness jig to file both cut edges flat. I then place the ring on a steel block and flare both sides using a centerpunch.
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Please read the pinned planking topics on this site! It will explain everything you need to know about planking a hull. https://thenrg.org/resource/articles Scroll down to Chuck Passaro's and David Antscherl's articles.
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Congrats on a beautiful finish, and condolences on the result of the seventh....
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- Norwegian Sailing Pram
- Model Shipways
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Thank you, Bruce. With a little practice, one can get the consistency of paint right (rather like airbrushing!) and a ruling or bow pen will lay down a consistent line. I can see the advantage of the striping pen, except that you are limited to white and yellow.
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So far, so good. But the knee also tapers in two directions. That also needs to be taken care of.
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Chuck; you make a very good point that has otherwise bothered me; the output looks too perfect! For figures such as the captain above, it's great, but for carved work on a ship, the surface lacks the markings of actual tools. Your concept of hand carving the output before hardening addresses this issue.
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For a chewed mole, he looks very good! Well done. (We are always our own worst critic.)
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Loose Planks
druxey replied to Rich Sloop's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Is this water-based paint? Wait until the moisture has completely evaporated and see if the planks sit down again. Then reglue from the inside. (I assume this is still accessible.) -
It must be a pear mouse, not an Apple one!
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