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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. It is amazing what we can learn from other model-makers, as well as what one invents for oneself, when one has to! I appreciate all the model makers on this site who are willing to share their knowledge.
  2. As much meticulous attention to detail as usual, Ed! Very, very nice.
  3. Check out the planking tutorials on this site. Edge bending planks only works to a small degree.
  4. Oh, oh. I hope that isn't pirated.
  5. Hide glue is excellent for about 200 years or more. It then becomes too brittle to stand up to seasonal wood movement. (See Rob Napier's book 'Legacy of a Ship Model', SeaWatch Books - highly recommended.) It is also somewhat odorous to use!
  6. Yup, this style of model is not for the hasty or faint of heart. And it always takes much longer than you expect. However, the payoff - eventually - is enormous.
  7. Looking terrific, Albert!
  8. Bristol board comes in various weights or plies and is an excellent material if handled appropriately. Generally it will bend better in one direction that the other at right angles. It cuts nicely with a sharp blade. It is probably better to surface glue using non-aqueous adhesives, as moisture will cause buckling. If you spray the finished model with grey automotive primer to seal it, you can then use acrylic or other water based paints on it with no risk of the card buckling.
  9. I agree with Greg. Definitely professional grade! Well done on achieving this milestone, Mark.
  10. I'm not certain when it goes on display, as it was only delivered a few weeks ago, Joe. The Museum could give you more precise details about the model. I only got a brief sneak peek at it when visiting.
  11. If you go, the Naval Academy Museum has just acquired a contemporary Cruiser class model, fully rigged. Can't get much better than that, except that it's missing the wheel and capstan. Why? The new ivory import restrictions in the US prohibited its entry, even though it was clearly antique ivory! So, those parts had to be stripped off before it left England. These new regulations affect musicians (their instrument bows, for example). They don't dare go abroad to play now, because their instruments won't be allowed back into the USA.
  12. That's as shipwrightly a solution to that geometry as one can make it, Mark. Looks very good.
  13. In real life this is sewn on. However, i doubt if you'd want to go to the trouble on a model sail. The bolt rope can be carefully glued along the perimeter of the sail using white glue. This will dry clear.
  14. If you don't see inspiration at New London, check whether you are still breathing! You'll see some terrific models there. I've attended three times and have always come away inspired.
  15. Looking lovely, Ed. Are you leaving off the limber boards on the other side? If so, will you be adding fillers between the frames?
  16. Very tricky, very nice! Sometimes, if one has to clamp a U-shaped structure such as the helm port framing you've illustrated, a temporary filler piece across the open side will prevent breakage.
  17. Dan: I think that two generations of model makers have been a little misled by Longridge's (correct) assertion that the lines of these timbers converge to a point somewhere in the air. However, the shipbuilders (and we modelmakers) have no need to actually figure out this virtual vanishing point. All we need to know is the width across the wing counter and the spacing and sided widths of the counter timbers. We also need to know the width across the top timbers at the stern, then proportionally divide up that distance into the intervals and (now narrowed) sidings of the counter timbers. There is no need to figure out where that imaginary meeting point is.
  18. Fascinating discussion on the merits of water tank design! And great work as usual, Ed.
  19. Too much! Next, it's be Phillips screw heads, then maybe even Torx.... It's madness, I tell you, Andy!
  20. Thanks for the scale slotted screws, Michael. I knew you could do them!
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