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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Beeswax has been identified as being slightly acidic, which is not good for the lines in the long run. Conservators' wax, which is pH neutral, might be a better choice.
  2. druxey
    Ron: to keep your chisels in top-notch shape, get the Lee Valley Stone Pond and sharpening guide with a couple of water stones.
  3. druxey
    Good to see you back again, Sailcat. Thanks for re-posting your meticulous re-working of this model.
  4. druxey
    Good to see you and your fine work back on this forum!
  5. druxey
    Volume IV of The Fully Framed Model details all this for you, if you have a copy.
  6. druxey
    Allanyed's response is a good one. A very sharp pencil (hard lead is best) and accurate mark-out are the critical parts of the operation, as well as a sharp chisel. By the way 'scarph' is the correct spelling; 'scarf' is the thing you put around your neck to stay warm!
  7. druxey
    Thanks for coming back, Doris. Your paper/card models are amazing.
  8. druxey
    Well, you do have a strange idea of light entertainment, Michael! The extreme change in scale must be hard to wrap your head around. Both models are looking very nice indeed.
  9. druxey
    Nothing is silly when it comes to the complexities of wooden shipbuilding. The octagonal space is the 'unfinished' partner, as you've stated. The finished one is very like your mock-up with the wedges made circular. I think you have it!
  10. druxey
    That's an interesting degree of detail shown on your draught, Jim. Anchor chain, rather than cable?
  11. druxey
    My understanding is that the octagonal space was cut back after assembly to become circular. The space between the partners' hole and the mast was filled with segmental wedges that were driven in. Once driven, the protruding ends of the wedges were cut and smoothed, then covered with a canvas 'boot'.
  12. druxey
    I'm also enjoying this not-quite-instant replay!
  13. druxey
    Those port sills are more complex than British style ones. And how many do you have to make? That's an impressive amount of work you have to do.
  14. druxey
    I agree, Clay. There is always useful information to be gleaned from studying actual ships' draughts.
  15. druxey
    Those are awkward customers to deal with, for sure. The jig holder is a great idea. If you make register marks across the holder for the scores, that will align them all properly.
  16. druxey
    Nothing like re-living past near-diasters!
  17. druxey
    Very, very nice magazine area, Egan.
  18. druxey
    Very impressive. The French certainly liked their officers to live in style!
  19. druxey
    I find producing blocks on an 'as needed' basis, rather than all at once, works for me. Perhaps it's less efficient, but it's a lot less daunting that way.
  20. druxey
    The most reliable way is to taper a square stick, plane it octagonal ('eight-square') then round it with sandpaper strips pulled back and forth around the diameter.
  21. druxey
    Well, that's a nice workbench that you built, Mark. Particularly those long dovetails - sweet detail!
  22. druxey
    I agree with Russ. Brass is soft enough to form easily around the deadeye after silver soldering. That way there will not be risk of a small fire!
  23. druxey
    Now THAT is a nicely shaped block!
  24. druxey
    Those stern lights are beautifully done. I like the way you've also shown the sashes. Can you tell us a little more about your varnish technique for the glazing. Is it just held in place by surface tension when you apply it, or do you do this on a non-sticking surface?
  25. druxey
    The low-tack frosted Scotch brand tape works really well for this method.

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