druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Sounds like an Ottawa Ship Model Society is about to form! Welcome aboard, Eugene.
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Well, you are deep down the rabbit hole, aren't you. Kranck? I wonder if it takes longer to design the files for 3D cutting than if one were to actually carve the pieces (assuming one has already acquired carving skills). -
Bienvenue ici, aurelein! Welcome aboard. You'll find a lot to look at here and advice if you need it.
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An online event about a trove of papers captured at sea between the 16th to 19th centuries. See : https://mail.yahoo.com/d/folders/1/messages/130473?.intl=ca&.lang=en-CA&.partner=none&.src=fp and scroll down. It is scheduled for Friday March 10. This should be of interest to many on this site.
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An easy mistake to make if you haven't been told or seen the process done.
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Well done on a challenging project! You should be very proud of the end result, Ian. Of course, I have to ask what is next?
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And no-one can prove you wrong! Well done.
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Certainly the English scored the deadwood for the heels of the frames for exactly the reason you state. It would be the only reasonable solution to the problem.
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Sills are probably the trickiest part of framing, except perhaps for cant frames. Gettigng the scores just so and the sill the exact length is a test of patience.
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Congrats on the addition to your family!
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Received Rob Napier's new book yesterday. A terrific read on Rob's career and a record of model cleaning and conservation. In addition it contains a sound philosophy on ship models and considerations to building in longevity to what we do.
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The lightness of a model's yards is a factor here. I pin the yards to the masts to overcome this. A small length of hard, blackened brass wire is almost invisible, as the yard is held slightly away from the mast it is raised on.
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Ways to reduce breakage: 1) Use bamboo with its long, parallel fibers. Split it first into smaller cross-sections by halving and re-halving the lengths. 2) Use parallel pliers to draw the pieces through the plate. The fibers aren't crushed which happens with regular pliers. 3) Draw steadily and in a straight line. 4) Only use the hard part of the bamboo just under the glassy outer layer.
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Apart from the "Honey, I shrunk the ship" shot, superb rendering work, Ron.
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You have achieved an excellent result with your 'wood' trim. Well done, Bob!
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So, you pay less for postage, but the mail strike hold things up instead. Can't win!
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Bienvenue and welcome aboard, Patrick!
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The 'alligatored' pebble-grain paint surface looks as if the model was exposed to extreme heat. Is this attic in a hot climate?
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Just catching up to you, Steven. Fascinating research and interpretation of those images.
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Thank you for educating us, Dick. I wonder wherher the ladder-like iconography represents internal thwarts or even frames?
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I use a ruling pen whose tips can be adjusted for width with acrylic paint, suitably diluted to flow nicely. (Each time you load the pen using a brush, test draw on scrap first!)
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Very methodical, and I like the felt 'buffer' that you have over the drill chuck. Clever idea! Acts both as a depth stop and anti-marring device.
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Terrific work, as ever, Valeriy. It's a pity new the lovely details are almost hidden in the middle of all the other lovely detail!
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