druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Rather than fabric, consider using SilkSpan for the bimini. Stretch it like watercolor paper and use dilute acrylic paint, before cutting and fitting it. The boat looks great so far! As an aside, I see Mark Twain on the wall. You must be a fan!- 111 replies
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Superb work as always, Valeriy. I hope you can safely complete the model and that things will improve. My best wishes for you and yours.
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A lovely and touching story, Keith. And yes, we get our granddaughter and family here this coming weekend. With 'blended' families it gets more complicated!
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Well done, and excellent explanations of your various processes. I learned quite a bit, so, thank you, Richard. Now, stay warm! The weather forecast is not good.
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Well done indeed, Mark. Cheeks are a b*ggar to do correctly and you've done it very nicely. That you didn't make separate catheads and tails (us lesser mortals tend do that!) is also exceptional. Take a bow (pun intended).
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Håkan: I must apologize for not seeing your progress before. Beautiful subject and work but best of all is your health news. I'm delighted for you. Merry Christmas indeed!
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There's strength in numbers, Ian! Try them out, say I.
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Flying Cloud by eyfeinsod - RESTORATION
druxey replied to eyfeinsod's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I note that you've started two separate logs. Can you please amalgamate them into one for us? Thank you. So, a major job started! Fine chain is best obtained form a jeweler's supply house. In the U.S. Gesswein is a reliable source. Might I strongly recommend Rob Napier's new book on the subject of conservation/restoration of old models? It will address your questions well, I think. Available at: https://seawatchbooks.com/collections/new-arrivals -
Prize Papers lecture from the National Archives, U.K.
druxey replied to druxey's topic in Nautical/Naval History
My link should then send you to: https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/the-prize-papers-a-new-frontier-in-global-and-maritime-history-tickets-482335688027?aff=em&utm_source=emailmarketing&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=wo_presale__8_dec_2022&utm_content=2022-12-11 -
Sounds like an Ottawa Ship Model Society is about to form! Welcome aboard, Eugene.
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Well, you are deep down the rabbit hole, aren't you. Kranck? I wonder if it takes longer to design the files for 3D cutting than if one were to actually carve the pieces (assuming one has already acquired carving skills).
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Bienvenue ici, aurelein! Welcome aboard. You'll find a lot to look at here and advice if you need it.
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An online event about a trove of papers captured at sea between the 16th to 19th centuries. See : https://mail.yahoo.com/d/folders/1/messages/130473?.intl=ca&.lang=en-CA&.partner=none&.src=fp and scroll down. It is scheduled for Friday March 10. This should be of interest to many on this site.
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An easy mistake to make if you haven't been told or seen the process done.
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Well done on a challenging project! You should be very proud of the end result, Ian. Of course, I have to ask what is next?
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And no-one can prove you wrong! Well done.
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Certainly the English scored the deadwood for the heels of the frames for exactly the reason you state. It would be the only reasonable solution to the problem.
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Sills are probably the trickiest part of framing, except perhaps for cant frames. Gettigng the scores just so and the sill the exact length is a test of patience.
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Congrats on the addition to your family!
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Received Rob Napier's new book yesterday. A terrific read on Rob's career and a record of model cleaning and conservation. In addition it contains a sound philosophy on ship models and considerations to building in longevity to what we do.
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The lightness of a model's yards is a factor here. I pin the yards to the masts to overcome this. A small length of hard, blackened brass wire is almost invisible, as the yard is held slightly away from the mast it is raised on.
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Ways to reduce breakage: 1) Use bamboo with its long, parallel fibers. Split it first into smaller cross-sections by halving and re-halving the lengths. 2) Use parallel pliers to draw the pieces through the plate. The fibers aren't crushed which happens with regular pliers. 3) Draw steadily and in a straight line. 4) Only use the hard part of the bamboo just under the glassy outer layer.
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Apart from the "Honey, I shrunk the ship" shot, superb rendering work, Ron.
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