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Everything posted by druxey
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Generally panes were no larger than about 9" by 12". Some contemporary models show sashes as well, just to up the game. You can see tis in one of the photos you posted. If you are building at 1:48, you should be able to use 1/64" square Castello or similar to form the dividing muntins. The trick is an accurate card pattern of each light from which to work. One method is shown in TFFM, Volume II. Cuttigng and gluing wood will be easier than wire!
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It will be next year, I understand. Well worth waiting for!
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That red line measurement should run all the way along the post, up the transom bulkhead and to the 'corner' where the strip representing the topside comes; just like the other green measurements.
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- Planking
- Lining out
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Off to flying start! But do take things at an easy pace, or 'oopsies' will ensue!
- 25 replies
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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ancre Le Gros Ventre by ChrisLBren - 1/36
druxey replied to ChrisLBren's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looks like a very good beginning, Chris. I was never up early enough when my daughter was young, and got no model-making done for ten years. Most enterprising of you! -
Some of the planking terminates before reaching the stem. The garboard (strake next to the keel) ends just where the stem begins to curve. Look at the planking tutorials on this site to get the idea. Nothing wrong with your 'fan' and the way you are using it.
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- Planking
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Without a rigid wire core, in a model it is difficult to avoid some deflection of the stays.
- 146 replies
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- Harriet Lane
- Model Shipways
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Ah, the old faithful Unimat! Mine is still going since 1970. Had you considered using a center in the tailstock to provide more support? That would take care of the hole that you need to drill anyway.
- 63 replies
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- Finished
- Khufus Solar Boat
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And so work continues.... Good to see you back at it, Ben.
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Congratulations, George, on a lovely model and for her display in the Maritime Museum. Well done!
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