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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Impresssive woudld be an understatement, Rob. Wow!
  2. druxey
    Excellent! Could not see them in the other photo. Glad you included these.
  3. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Ron. Will the spritsail have water drainage holes added?
  4. druxey
    That's the general idea, Toni. There would also be sacrificial blocks of wood on the rail to protect it. However, there is one drawback: it would be tricky to get the anchor past the fore channel, deadeyes and laniards. I think that the chain would be secured to an eyebolt inside the bulwark with a hook on the 'free' end that engages a second eyebolt inside. Call in the Time Machine to be really sure!
  5. druxey
    Nice castings and finish, Toni! There may well have been a shankpainter chain used to secure the anchor, rather than the anchor lovingly hugging the swivel mount. It would be about in line with the aft end of the billboard/lining. This would raise the anchor shank parallel to the rail and the stock should then clear the water.
  6. druxey
    Welcome, Jack, from another Ontarian.
  7. druxey
    While your clamping process will work, I still prefer a plaster outer jacket for stability of the mold - especially during a 'pour'!
  8. druxey
    Terrifying Velocity, perhaps. Perhaps not, Waldemar....
  9. druxey
    Is that not 'T V'?
  10. druxey
    Those 48 pounders are shock and awe pieces!
  11. druxey
    There are two versions of this book. The earlier edition gives both French and Dutch practice as well as English, but the later one covers only English rigging.
  12. druxey
    Do read (or re-read) the planking primers on this site! They explain and show you how to do this really well.
  13. druxey
    Lovely and delicate looking, Greg. Are you going to lash the burton pendants to the shrouds?
  14. druxey
    Absolutely delightful, Ab and Emiel! Thank you for sharing these. A limited edition book would be great.
  15. druxey
    I agree with Marc that, for fine work, breath control is essential. It's a very zen and highly focussed exercise. A really good quality sable brush that 'points' well is another ingredient for success. Oh, yes, and patience!
  16. druxey
    Just remember to make a left and right, not two of the same! Well done so far.
  17. druxey
    Back already? Good stuff, Bob!
  18. druxey
    That was quick! Well done, Kevin.
  19. druxey
    Looks terrific! Well done, Bob. Please make sure she gets a protective case now, she's worth it.
  20. druxey
    Traditionally decks were nailed and the heads countersunk. The hole above was filled with a diamond shaped or round wood plug, grain running the same way as the planking. As a result it is not very visible. Side and bottom planking treenails are far more obvious. My personal preference is no treenails in deck planks, although many models have them.
  21. druxey
    The most impressive model of her that I saw as a child was this one by I. W. Marsh: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66011
  22. druxey
    The most likely reason for the groove is that the tip end of the plank drops as it comes off the outfeed table. Two solutions: One, hold the outfed plank close to the lip of the outfeed table, not its far end. Two, construct an extension to the outfeed side to support longer stock.
  23. druxey
    Oooh! You didn't mention scale, Allan! 1:196 is certainly a very different proposition. Photoetch, perhaps?
  24. druxey
    Welcome back, Daniel! Good to see you in the shipyard again.
  25. druxey
    As you are using card, why not paper sails as well? Many model-makers use SilkSpan with great success.

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