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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Well put, Roger!
  2. druxey
    The video; formidable!!!
  3. druxey
    There is a slight narrowing in the aft body along this section so, if the second photo shows the aft end to the left, this would account for things. However, if the aft end is to the right.... In any case, the angle would be slightly less than your trial set-up, I think.
  4. druxey
    Is the blade jamming as it has insufficient 'set' or is too fine-toothed and heating up?
  5. druxey
    You are a braver man than I with those catchy things whirling around! Two points: one, hard to see, but the lay seems too loose and two, if properly laid and hardened, the rope should not unravel when cut.
  6. druxey
    I find getting these 'just right' the hardest challenge in a model, as they curve in all planes. Looks lke you've conquered the problem beautifully, Siggi.
  7. druxey
    While the base and stand is another masterpiece, I find that my eye is drawn to the shiny and away from the model. This may be heresy, but would chemically darkening the metal be something that you might consider?
  8. druxey
    Looks a bit Rube Goldberg (Heath Robinson for the British reader!) to me, and a bit scary. My reaction is similar to Bob's....
  9. druxey
    I'm sorry to read that your brother has to retire from the hobby, but appreciate his equipment being offered to continue the tradition elsewhere.
  10. druxey
    As Greg suggested. Sometime I use rubber cement to 'glue' down pieces. The only drawback is that it does not hold well in shear, so if you are planning on heavy cuts...
  11. druxey
    I had a second hand Dumore (not Cameron) for some years that I bought on eBay. I had to re-wire the very aged cord and I stripped down and re-sprayed the casing. It worked very well, but I used it so little that I sold it again.
  12. druxey
    Yes, some adjustment is needed for this to articulate properly. Does the port side seat back sit as it should? Certainly you are taking care: the use of shims nicely demonstrated!
  13. druxey
    Welcome back!
  14. druxey
    It certainly is!
  15. druxey
    But you must be so practiced with chocks by now....
  16. druxey
    If you aren't happy and have used white glue, an application of rubbing alcohol will debond the joint and you can re-do it. How do I know this?
  17. druxey
    You might try a hot iron, pressure and moisture to bed that garboard down more. Make sure the iron is not too hot, though!
  18. druxey
    Bob: I agree that word meaning shifted with time, and I think we are agreed now! Thank you. Bruce: You've smoked me: I'm rotten to the core.
  19. druxey
    Oh dear. Thank you for providing a valuable critical review, wefalck
  20. druxey
    I don't think 'proof diagonals' were used until well into the 18th century.
  21. druxey
    Um, that partial sheer and profile plan shows no sign of a mini poop deck or access ladders. If there were a deck, then red ink lines would have defined it. Less is more!
  22. druxey
    Often hand tools are better unless one is a genius machinist! Most of us have repeatedly failed with bollard and hawse timbers, as well as cant frames. I certainly did in my first fully framed hull! Stay the course and you will succeed.
  23. druxey
    Bob: I respectfully disagree. 17th and 18th century vessels had these long bolts (not always 'drifted'), typically through deadwoods and other structures that required longer bolts. 'Drift' in the period sense of the word meant a change in level, such as the topside of a ship or diameter of a longer bolt.
  24. druxey
    Drift in this context would be a longer bolt with different diameter sections, the narrowest near the tip. The changes in diameter would be in small steps.And yes, it would be a friction fit.
  25. druxey
    There really is no reason for that micro-deck aft and the access ladders. I hate to see the careful rendering go, but...

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