BLACK VIKING

https://cafmodel.com/products/la-salamandre-full-rib-life-boat
You can choose this boat. Its hull is also in the shape of tiles
Now the price is 23$
He needs to be very careful when making. He can't use liquid quick drying glue, which can easily bond the hull and the resin mold inside
We can use latex or jelly like glue。
We have improved the resin mold, now we use a whole, so its accuracy is better than the original use of splitt

Very interesting -- not the usual kind of cross-section we see!

Hi.
Hi Robert. Did not check the post since October. 
Its been a while but she's all finished and turned out as I expected. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Just a little tidying of the edges and clean the dust off and she's ready to go.
Been a interesting build with Help from a lot of people from all over the globe.
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony.
 

Hi all,
 
Working on the first planking as well as fixing a stern stem post and the keel filler. 
Next, as you all know, will be sanding, sanding, filler and then sanding.
 
Thanks for your visits always much appreciated.
 

 
 
 

Time for a weekly update. First of all thanks for likes and supportive comments. Thanks to Stuglo for the tips about Longridge "The anatomy of Nelson's ships". I will order the book as soon as possible. Thanks also to Axel for the information about "The introduction and use of copper sheathing - a history" by Mark Staniforth. I will check that out as well. Copper sheathing is going well (I think). So far I have made two gore lines at stern and one at the bow. The bow now needs a gore line to straighten out the last rows of sheathing but that's for another day. For the moment I feel exhausted or "knackered" as they said in Cumbria (Northern England) when I lived there twenty years ago.
 


 
Regards
Henrik

Ok after experimenting with the different sail making techniques, both paper and cloth, I settled on cloth. I drew out and cut paper patterns for each sail on the plastic form including the lines. I found an old cream colored bed sheet and stretched it out tight. Next I drew in long rolls of lines On the sheet with pencil matching the spacing on the patterns. For a bit of simplicity I spaced the lines a bit further apart then the molded forms. Next I drew all the patterns on the sheet matching the paper and cloth lines and included the sail number on a side tab. Then in a time consuming process I hand stitched all the lines within each pattern. After I finished sewing all the lines I cut out each sail. Using a 3 to 1 dilution of water and white glue I painted each sail formed over the plastic molds. When the glue dried I had a perfectly molded sail. I waited 24 hours to make sure sail was solid. I will now come up with a satisfactory color to lightly hit them with my airbrush. I think I will reinforce the bottom corners for rigging before I attach them to the yards. I am happy with them. As a purest I know the stitching is out of scale but I am willing to except that. 

Hey EJ - ‘just catching up with your log.  The stern and QGs are very neatly framed and trimmed out.  Beautiful work on the scarfed wales, as well.

Hello all! I know it it has been a while since I have updated, been a little busy but mostly just needed a break. Back now with some updates to share. 
 

Some more oarsmen, and a nice background picture. It's a reconstruction of the Byzantine harbour of Theodosius (where the Yenikapi ships were found). It would be good to make one of those background pictures big enough to look like it's a real background, but I'll have to wait till lockdown is over so I can get to a shop that does it.
 
 
 
My wife tells me I have to stop making these figures, otherwise I'll go blind. I've decided I'll only do it till I need glasses.
 

 
Oh.

Taking a break on installing ratlines and moved to adding furled sails using silkspan.  I like the looser look on the furled sails and to me it may not be correct, but has a better presentation of the model's sails.
 
   
 
   
 

 
 

Thanks, Steven. Being my first work, I try to do a bit better than instructions say, but I also know there are a lot of things out of my knowledge and therefore I've to study much more...
The last step has been planking main deck bulwark edges using walnut strips 4x1 mm, like illustrated in the AMATI's instructions:
 

 
It has been a difficult work, and I had to build some tools using abrasive paper and wood silhouettes:
 

 

 
        
 
       
 

 
 
Perhaps, using shapes cut out of veneer instead of strips, it would have come a better job ...
Now we've to build the external reinforcements (fenders) for the hull...
 
See you soon...
 
Rodolfo
 
 
 
 
 

I added a few more bulwark planks at the aft end of the main deck, then cut out the first curved portion. I first marked the planks with a circle template then used the Dremel with a sanding disk to remove the excess. I will finish them up with a half round file and sandpaper.
 

 
I cut deck planks for the small bow deck, then removed the starboard planks to drill holes for fake treenails. I wanted to do this with the planks off the deck because it would be harder to drill with the bulwarks in the way. I used some masking tape to hold them together and to use as a guide for drilling the holes. I traced the curve edge of the planks on the masking tape then cut out the guide strip. I drilled two holes at each end and will fill them in with oak wood putty. You can see this on the long test strip.
 

 
Before I glue these in place I will mark the ends and one edge with a black Sharpie. Here are the port deck planks dry fit.
 

 
After I finish gluing these all in I will do the same on the main deck.

Nice to see the hull planked, Christos. That's a very nice shape.

@Louie da fly  thx, it seems am over the crical point of not completing the model. After the framing and planking now its easy to proceed with what it remains in order to rebuilt Homer's ship. I believe the result will be historicaly representable or at least within the frame of Homer's imagination.

Planoing the shell with oak 

After some thought and discussion with forum members in the rigging section of the site, I've opted not to do the crowsfeet for the Victory...
 

 
Moved on to the fore braces, and definitely saved myself a lot of frustration leaving out the crowsfeet as access would have been a nightmare! Unfortunately the blocks on the yard arms for the braces are overscale (2mm when they should really be about 1mm).
 
Since we are under another 5 weeks of lockdown over here in Melbourne, I turned my attention to the anchor rig.
 
 
 

 
The anchor rope should have been placed in the hawse holes waaaaay back in the early stages of the build but impatient me pushed on ahead anyway which I now regret (also it took me some time to source the rope).
 
 
Used 1.3mm natural rope for the anchors.
 
 

 
Seized the rope (I know the seizing thread is also a bit overscale). Excess to be trimmed, unfortunately the rope frayed a little during the process.
 
And now here I am pondering whether it is at all possible to rig a triple block to the cathead on the model? The diameter of the cathead is about 1.7mm... I may have to settle with a simple knot around it.
 
 
 

Hello msw, I hope everybody is well.
 
It’s been a while since my last post so I thought I would show some pictures to keep you up to date.
I have not yet encountered significant problems or issues. I have however experienced some annoying setbacks, like having to rebuild and install all posts (on the railing of the ship) because I made the first ones out of a 4x4mm beam while 3x3mm looks a lot better, etc…
The only thing I could not manage to assemble were the messing shroud holders that are attached to the hull. I wasted 3 hours on them and then decided to throw them as far as they could fly. Instead I bought the ones from Amati (see pic below) and they were much better and a lot easier to assemble.  
I also spent a lot of time on the aftercastle but that’s because I made my own version. In total I made about 10 versions of which I have posted a few before. But I’m happy with how it turned out and I think it fits the ship better than the one provided with the kit. It is however not complete yet. But all in due time.
 
I bought the kit at a price of €90, but wit all the extra wood, varnishes, paint, glue, messing ornaments, etc… I have easily spent another € 90. This is not necessary tho, (except for the glue and some tools of course), if you follow the instructions, everything you need is provided. All parts are of oké quality, except for the messing parts, they were absolutely rubbish. Maybe this differs from kit to kit but mine were of poor quality (bended, size off, ….).  
 
You’ll see on the pictures that I tried to bring back the same color as the stripes on the ship onto the deck. This is probably not for everyone but I personally find most of the kits you can buy have boring colors (if they have any at all). I know this isn’t historically correct or what not but I have to look at my model when it is finished and I prefer aesthetics above historically accurate.
 
I still have lots of work. I am not looking forward to rigging the ship but that’s because I’m unsure about it. I have two knots in my repertoire if you will, one for tying my shoelaces and another for my tie. I’m affraid none of those will be needed tho. Luckily rope and deadeyes are cheap so I can practise as much as needed.
 
Thanks for reads, likes and follows!
 
 
 







 These are godawful. (mantua)
Use these instead : (amati)

After missing information on how the covers were fixed, I opted for easy folds and will change that as suitable information comes.
 

 
Still got some netting on the face side and fixed an iron hook.
 

 
After a transatlantic voyage, I suppose the ship to look a bit tattered. So some man are meant to do do a small face lift 🙂
 

 


So the last slice is done. Still need to clean the others up and fix them on the frame. Soon this project is finally to be finished 🙂
 
Titel: 1805 mid Atlantic, return from the Caribbean, ...
 

 

 
Enjoy, DAn

Dear All,
A new House and a new project, Artesania Latina Fulgaro.
This was something that I got off "Trademe" Auction Site, (New Zealand's Ebay), a couple of years ago.
(I looked for this under the A/L catalogue but appears to have been discontinued.)
I am unsure if I have posted in the correct place but the Moderators can correct if not right.
As far as I can ascertain, these boats, "Gozo," are still used.
 
(Sanson will have to take a back seat for the mo.)
 
Two of the three Abyssinian "Helpers" got in the frame, but, as we all know, the Internet was made for cats.... (And Model Ships!!) 🙂
 
Hopefully, this will turn out o.k. as I intend to give this (When complete), to the owners of a Holiday Park in Opunake who were so accommodating giving us a Cabin to stay in before taking possession of the new House at an absolutely wonderful rate!!
 
The Ship Room is now more or less operational so its time to get Farah-Fawcett, and the Ship Plans, on the wall and do something constructive!!
 
Kit Contents:
Usual A/L laser cut wood and something that I haven't seen before in an A/L kit, pre-shaped Hull Strakes, (X6), which go directly beneath the Gunwales. The remainder of the Planking is the usual Lime Strip Wood. Mahogany for the Decking Pre-Sewn Sails Hardware So, it will be an interesting "Smallish" Boat. (It looks like a Happy Boat!!)
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
 
 
 

I somehow managed to finish the middle rails today. If anyone spots any mistakes or sees room for improvement, do let me know.. better to fix it now then later on (especially if it's an easy fix 😄😅)
 
Some photos: 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have done a bit of coppering over the weekend. Coppering is new for me. I have no previous experience so progress is slow. As I have understood copper tiles have been laid out differently over time and in different countries. I have not found any good reference yet as to how it was done in Britain by the end of the 18th century. I will therefore use my artistic freedom since I am the captain (as Sjors said). What I am looking for are tiles running toward bow and stern at an angle of 20-30 degrees to the waterline and reasonably horizontal tiles mid ships all the way to the water line with smooth transitions. To get this I have started drawing some gore lines where one row of copper tiles changes direction not running parallel to the row below in order to better follow the shape of the hull. I will try to explain my idea in a later post but since I am in a bit of hurry just now I leave that out for today.


 
Kind regards
 
Henrik

Second planking is nearly done
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I am quite happy with the result. Not sure what I am going to do with the finish.

Post 31: Bowsprit
 
I am in the process of constructing the remaining deck furniture - Windlass etc.  However, I decided to make and trial fit the bowsprit so that I can avoid maneuvering around the deck fittings. I turned this from 5/16 square stock as suggested by chuck.  I drilled three 1.5 mm holes while the stock was still square and also the holes for the sheave at the tip
 

I then turned this on my home made "lathe"

The board at the end has a Roller Blade bearing.  I actually have two of these and on longer jobs I position one about half way along to add extra support.  I find this works pretty well and is cheap!
 
Of course I had to enlarge the hole in the bow to fit.  Initially, I did this with drills of increasing diameter but this led to tearing of the timber so in the end I did most of the work with a round file.  Here is the fitted bowsprit:
 

 
John
 
 

Feel free to vote for the stain colour you think most appropriate for a display model of the Oseberg longship.   
There should be some more stains to try before the first staining.
 
In the course to trying these I have discovered:
These stains are soluble in Iso-propanol! As I discovered by spilling some on my cork building board The narrow bottles ALWAYS get knocked over and spilled I now know this and prepare the area, and keep them upright in a deep container padded by cloths I applied a coat of stain to the 4mm ply that the frame is made from.  The large parts of the turnover jig are perfect for this

I have two bottles labelled Walnut and one labelled Mahogany

These are the two pots labelled Walnut, but I have a sneaking suspicion that I used one of them to trial-mix in a little Mahogany
I also stained an Obechi strip and some of my micro-veneer

I'm distinctly chuffed with the behaviour of the veneer, because A) it took the stain sweetly, and
B )  I was able to iron it flat without the stain misbehaving (or staining the sole of the Iron!).  Thank you GladBake (baking parchment)

 
So there we are.  The stain has been applied, and fully dried.
I expect to be able to glue the stained timber as easily as unstained.
The experiments with intentional glue contamination can now commence!
 
Why does the veneer (0.2mm thick) need to be ironed?
Well because it was bought rolled and stapled into little cones for use as dainty holders for something like sweets (US=candies:  Lincolnshire = clats)
So the veneer needs to be flattened by ironing or similar
 
Jack P used white oak veneer to cover the ply end grain, and since no mention was made of thickness I assume it was 0.6mm (25thou) which is more-or-less standard (I am told).  For Jack and Von Kossa the veneer was made to follow the concave curves on the frames (using Packing tubes already!) and the remaining part of the frame covered, I think, in  separate pieces of veneer
 
I aim to cover each frame top edge in a single length of veneer since
My veneer is thin ,
The tops of the frames are rounded off and I expect the veneer to be able to follow the rounded curve.  Its rounded because there are no square corners to fall against in my Longship!
I have experience of this both as a boat-user and full size builder of marine equipment,
 
I said that I was chuffed earlier
In fact my state is "chuffed to little Naafi-breaks" because I have just made my first box-joint
 

This is made with scrap ply, but now I have  a working jig, and the world is my lobster!
 

Time for an update.
 
Of course, these photos are part of the instruction manual, so I've taken a selection to show where I'm currently up to with DoK. There are three 3mm MDF sheets, and I took my time to remove all of them and clean the tabs up with a knife and/or sanding stick. All parts are engraved with a number, and I knew all would be used in this quick bench session. First up, I built the temporary cradle. There's a gorgeous acrylic one for final use, complete with engraved nameplate, so this one is the scrapper that I'll throw away at the end.
 

 

 
 
As the model is single deck and won't have the usefulness of another lower deck into which the masts can align, a simple part is slotted into the keel before any work starts. It's most accessible to add at this stage. The part is a nice, snug fit. This is the main mast position.
 

 
 
Before any bulkheads are fitted, I first mark a rough bevel line on the first and last three bulkheads and then grind this away with my Dremel. A number of other parts are also bevelled at this stage too, such as the outer cheek parts and the front of the inner longitudinal beams. All bulkheads are now slotted into place.
 

 

 
 
For the foremast, a couple of parts are added to the outer cheeks. These will create a round base into which the down will sit. These are then slotted into place.

 

 
 
Now, those longitudinal beams are now added, starting with the inner two...

 

 
 
...and followed by the outer two:

 

 
 
At this stage, I painted wood glue into the joints and left the whole lot for a few hours to cure. I prefer this method when there are so many slots and such perfect tolerances.

 
 
Construction of the stern gallery areas starts with slotting in three frames, easily recognised with their engraved position ID. These just slot straight into position as shown, and are then glued.

 

 
 
Four extra pieces are added just before and after the midships cabin area. These are to support the floor/deck at either side. The cabin floor is also fitted and clamped until set.

 

 

 

 
 
Both the main and upper false decks are now glued into place. These are 0.8mm ply and you need to bend them and allow them to fit into the slots in the bulkhead tabs. This holds the deck parts remarkably flat across all bulkheads. As an insurance policy, I also add a couple of brass pins to the forward upper deck as there are no slots there to hold in position.

 
 
One nice little touch are the temporary beams which now slot into the bulkhead tabs. These are to give everything some real rigidity whilst the hull is worked on from this point. Afterwards, the beams and tabs will be broken out and discarded.

 
 
A few extra pieces at the stern, but not quite all. The model is now setting before I start to sand the hull to shape and add the ply bulwarks.

 
 
More soon...