Bedford

That's dedication!

Shame about the planks but as you suggested, it's not a real concern,

The rest of what you've been up to is beautiful, and I love a good pic of the symmetry of frames. 

On 4/17/2023 at 1:13 PM, Mark Pearse said:

Hi Steve

 

Good to hear from you. Do you mean Marcus Cranney's Ranger build? Tweed River, I think is where he lives...

I was referring to the Ranger model you took into SASC 

Well done, she looks great. Inspires me to get on with my R.C.

Well done, she looks great. Inspires me to get on with my R.C.

Well I decided to have a look to see if anyone I know had another build going and I found this.

Having seen the last one in the flesh I know the owner ill be well pleased with your efforts. I'm tagging along.

More nice progress!

As for filling/sealing, I reckon you can't go past epoxy. You don't want to be paying a fortune for it but you should be able to get small trial packs. You can get really thin epoxy like everdure which goes on thinner than varnish and is easy to sand the furry first coat before doing a few more. If you get some normal epoxy you can thicken it with "Q cells" or similar. This makes an excellent easy sanding filler.

I know Boatcraft in Aus do trial packs of the above with their Bote Cote epoxy system.

You've come up with a very clever solution and it does look very much like chain. Well done, as usual.

beautiful work, as usual!

That could have been devastating, glad you were able to salvage it. Perhaps it's worthwhile moving incomplete models inside during long pauses in the cold months?

Now you're doing some very fiddly stuff fitting that deck.

Absolutely beautiful, are you planning some kind of cap to hide the socket head screw. A polished brass plug perhaps?

This is a build from which I will suffer some degree of withdrawal, every time I open the site I do so with great anticipation that Valeriy has a new post on this magnificent build.

We tend to be our own worst critics but then we build for our pleasure so must please ourselves. I think it looks pretty damn good.

Absolutely stunning Keith, I think I'll be suffering withdrawal symptoms once the pics stop coming

How much is that doggy in the window

3 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

 "Yes, everyone that works with saws has had stitches"  Haha.

Now you've got me worried, band saw, chain saw, circ saw, jig saw, scroll saw, super sharp model making saws and various hand saws and to date, no stitches in 61 years. What's around the corner!!! Mind you I have left a few drops claret in most jobs in one way or another.

Glad your injury wasn't too serious though!

4 hours ago, KeithAug said:

I am aware from photographs that the original riveted hull was replaced with a welded hull

I think that's somewhat a shame, modern bureaucrats killing off old skills. Here in Aus the Sydney Heritage Fleet recently relaunched the steam ship John Oxley after 30 years on the hard. All hull plates have been replaced and RIVETED as per original, they did the same on the James Craig and S.T. Waratah has a riveted hull too. The governing bodies really should recognise and allow historically correct work on these vessels. 

Keith, I'm biased but I don't reckon you can beat Ena. I've been aboard a few times and the details would really test you. Not to mention she is a museum ship now at the Australian National Maritime Museum.

Interestingly, in the book Hand, Reef and Steer by Tom Cunliffe he states that the jackyard topsail should be raised on the port side only. Although it will not be as efficient on the port tack it still works and the reasoning is simple bearing in mind he would be referring to English vessels with a job to do, short voyages and not many hands. The sail has to be raised and lowered on the lee side of the rig for obvious reasons and since doing so is a busy affair you don't want to have to leave it to tack away to avoid another vessel. Having it on the port side means you raise or lower it when on a starboard tack and therefore have right of way over other vessels.

I don't think I've used this word yet, splendid!

Looking forward to more progress on this one

I'm nobodys hydrological engineer (don't even think that's the right term) but I'd imagine that the oars sweeping in a fixed test like that will mostly stir the water into eddy currents and not result in much in the way of thrust but when on a floating boat they will work more as they're designed to which involves moving the boat rather than moving much water. I think it may surprise you.

I admire your determination and commitment to this, for what it's worth I think the 0.4 (last) stroke style is the best

It's been a while between updates but I've fitted the kings cabin doors and made the masts. The wood for the masts was really white so I stained it in Baltic pine and finished them in carnauba furniture wax which looks really nice. 

All spars will get the same treatment. 

Mate, this just keeps getting better!

That is a huge slab of canvas to haul up from below and you raised it from the correct side too