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Posts posted by Bedford
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- Ondras71, Keith Black, GrandpaPhil and 3 others
- 6
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That's coming along nicely, I know you're aiming for the most realistic motion you can get so as a rower I think the strokes are way too fast at this stage. It takes a lot of effort to move oars that big and that long.
I'd suggest that the slow speed you showed should be full speed and is it possible to have the power stroke slower than the return stroke to simulate the extra effort?
I would also suggest that the pause is too long, it probably only needs to be long enough to be discernible.
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Well after approx 17 weeks looking for a new place I have finally found one but I can't move in for about a month. It is within walking distance of the largest saltwater lake in Australia (I think) Lake MacQuarie just a little north of Sydney. So I will take a while to get set up and undoubtedly spend a lot of time rowing and or sailing Miss Caroline on said lake and in between all that I'll get back into the build, the royal yacht awaits.
- GrandpaPhil, Keith Black and EJ_L
- 3
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Pleased to have you back Keith, I am still modelling vicariously through the likes of you and Hopefully Michael will be back in the shipyard soon. No idea when I'll find a place to set up again.
- KeithAug, Keith Black and mtaylor
- 3
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4 hours ago, michael mott said:
So what am I missing here?
I must admit to being a bit out of touch lately.
Michael
I've had to vacate my home and am having big problems finding another so all my gear is in storage and I'm staying with a friend in Orange, No model building in the near future for me.
- michael mott, mtaylor and Keith Black
- 3
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Good to hear Michael, all the best with it. At this rate you'll be back in the workshop before me.
- michael mott, mtaylor and Keith Black
- 3
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Thanks Mark, I'm still looking at the coastal lakes, Jervis Bay/Lake Macquarie areas but am keeping an eye on the local market because I may have to concede defeat at some point. I lived here for 30 odd years, My kids grew up here, my daughter died here. It feels like home but I do like to be able to wet the boat often and easily so I want to be near one of those lakes, both of which have community groups I could enjoy being involved in.
- Cathead, Mark Pearse, Keith Black and 1 other
- 4
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Michael, I'm sorry to hear of the delays but yes it's happening all over the world at the moment.
We have no alternative but to wait patiently for your master classes to resume. All the best!
- Keith Black, FriedClams and mtaylor
- 3
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Just had a thought, Normal servos are very noisy and using a rotating drive will give non-linear movement to the sweep motion.
The stroke will accelerate as it nears mid point and decelerate after. Normally not that noticeable but with long oars it could be very apparent.
Are you aware of linear servos? They are quieter and constant speed. I have included a video clip of one brand, they have different sizes and 3 different speed options.
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It's sad that he can't enjoy the investment but a great pick up for some lucky modeller
- Ryland Craze, mtaylor, Bob Cleek and 1 other
- 4
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I know these are terribly historically incorrect but if you're more interested in reliable buoyancy something like these will, at least, give you something to think about
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140352884990
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Well it's been over a month and due to covid I need to apply for any property I want to look at and to date I can't even get a look at anything. It's crazy!
At this rate I'll be putting everything in storage and occupying a friends spare room in Orange.
- Mark Pearse, Keith Black and EJ_L
- 2
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With the scarf joints, if anything, the overlap you have on the exterior is the best place to have it. Easy to sand down.
As for the strakes all being dead even at the stem, that isn't always the case. The good shipwright will strive to achieve it but there's no structural reason for it and I'd imagine that work boats built quickly and to a cost would be the most likely to have some discrepancy there.
- Mark Pearse and mtaylor
- 2
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I have made a variation on the sewing needle Eberhard refers to. I beat the end of some 2mm brass rod down to a fine blade and cut a groove approx 1mm deep into the end of it and mounted it into a dowel handle. The whole thing is approx 250mm long giving plenty of room to hold it and reach across the deck.
All you have to do is hold tension on the bitter end while guiding the line around the bit, pin or cleat.
- mtaylor, Roger Pellett, wefalck and 2 others
- 5
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Hand scarfing is pretty easy. The norm for the length of the joint is 8 or 12 to one. This may be difficult with planks this thin so you may need to come up with a smaller ratio that's easier to cut.
The process is simple:-
- Measure the length of scarf on the first plank and draw a line square to the plank
- With the next piece, lay it as it will be joined to the first then flip it lengthwise so you get the correct orientation on the cut and mark as per the first
- Lay the pieces down on a work surface with a hard edge so that the lower piece is exactly on that edge
- Lay the second piece on top with its edge right on the line on the lower piece and clamp it all down
- Use a small and very sharp plane to cut the scarf using the table edge and the line on each plank as datum points
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It's the small details that take the most effort, just remember to look at them from a few feet away. The fact that they are that good at that scale is very impressive.
I think we all know the feeling of a tiny piece we've labored over disappearing into the abyss just as it's finished.
- mtaylor, lmagna, Keith Black and 1 other
- 4
21 ft Yawl Longboat for a Sixth Rate by Vaddoc - FINISHED - Scale 1:10 - Plans from the National Maritime Museum
in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
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The planks take on some interesting shapes don't they. She's really looking the part!