Bedford

The planks take on some interesting shapes don't they. She's really looking the part!

Well folks, the day has arrived, I'm in my new home!

No furniture etc yet, that comes tomorrow but here's a pic of the RC sitting in readiness and the MC keeping her company. As well as a pic taken just 900mtrs from my front door. 2 mins drive to the boat ramp as opposed to almost an hour.

That's looking really good now. As you said, the power stroke may be naturally slowed by the work load but those servos are very low geared so probably not a whole lot slower. I'm really enjoying this experimental build.

That's coming along nicely, I know you're aiming for the most realistic motion you can get so as a rower I think the strokes are way too fast at this stage. It takes a lot of effort to move oars that big and that long.

I'd suggest that the slow speed you showed should be full speed and is it possible to have the power stroke slower than the return stroke to simulate the extra effort?

I would also suggest that the pause is too long, it probably only needs to be long enough to be discernible. 

The SHF has opened up to volunteers again, albeit with very restricted numbers so I'd imagine ANMM will follow suit soon as the two organisations work closely. There is always an extra concern for the older members though.

We are our own worst critics

Well after approx 17 weeks looking for a new place I have finally found one but I can't move in for about a month. It is within walking distance of the largest saltwater lake in Australia (I think) Lake MacQuarie just a little north of Sydney. So I will take a while to get set up and undoubtedly spend a lot of time rowing and or sailing Miss Caroline on said lake and in between all that I'll get back into the build, the royal yacht awaits.

Pleased to have you back Keith, I am still modelling vicariously through the likes of you and Hopefully Michael will be back in the shipyard soon. No idea when I'll find a place to set up again.

My news mate!

What Michael said!

4 hours ago, michael mott said:

So what am I missing here?

 

I must admit to being a bit out of touch lately.

 

Michael

I've had to vacate my home and am having big problems finding another so all my gear is in storage and I'm staying with a friend in Orange, No model building in the near future for me.

Good to hear Michael, all the best with it. At this rate you'll be back in the workshop before me.

Thanks Mark, I'm still looking at the coastal lakes, Jervis Bay/Lake Macquarie areas but am keeping an eye on the local market because I may have to concede defeat at some point. I lived here for 30 odd years, My kids grew up here, my daughter died here. It feels like home but I do like to be able to wet the boat often and easily so I want to be near one of those lakes, both of which have community groups I could enjoy being involved in.

Well as expected I have put everything in storage and am in said friends spare room in Orange. I've been invited to look at one house in all this time and it wasn't suitable but it looks like there is another one on the horizon. Wish me luck!

Yes they are a bit pricey and slow. If you look at the speed though, you're talking a huge amount of leverage i the oars so a couple of seconds to send the handle an inch sends the blade quite a distance.

Michael, I'm sorry to hear of the delays but yes it's happening all over the world at the moment.

We have no alternative but to wait patiently for your master classes to resume. All the best!

Just had a thought, Normal servos are very noisy and using a rotating drive will give non-linear movement to the sweep motion.

The stroke will accelerate as it nears mid point and decelerate after. Normally not that noticeable but with long oars it could be very apparent.

Are you aware of linear servos? They are quieter and constant speed. I have included a video clip of one brand, they have different sizes and 3 different speed options.

It's sad that he can't enjoy the investment but a great pick up for some lucky modeller

I know these are terribly historically incorrect but if you're more interested in reliable buoyancy something like these will, at least, give you something to think about

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140352884990

Well it's been over a month and due to covid I need to apply for any property I want to look at and to date I can't even get a look at anything. It's crazy!

At this rate I'll be putting everything in storage and occupying a friends spare room in Orange.

With the scarf joints, if anything, the overlap you have on the exterior is the best place to have it. Easy to sand down.

As for the strakes all being dead even at the stem, that isn't always the case. The good shipwright will strive to achieve it but there's no structural reason for it and I'd imagine that work boats built quickly and to a cost would be the most likely to have some discrepancy there.  

I have made a variation on the sewing needle Eberhard refers to. I beat the end of some 2mm brass rod down to a fine blade and cut a groove approx 1mm deep into the end of it and mounted it into a dowel handle. The whole thing is approx 250mm long giving plenty of room to hold it and reach across the deck. 

All you have to do is hold tension on the bitter end while guiding the line around the bit, pin or cleat. 

I might just follow along with this too, I really enjoy the inventive side of model building

Hand scarfing is pretty easy. The norm for the length of the joint is 8 or 12 to one. This may be difficult with planks this thin so you may need to come up with a smaller ratio that's easier to cut.

The process is simple:-

1. Measure the length of scarf on the first plank and draw a line square to the plank
2. With the next piece, lay it as it will be joined to the first then flip it lengthwise so you get the correct orientation on the cut and mark as per the first
3. Lay the pieces down on a work surface with a hard edge so that the lower piece is exactly on that edge
4. Lay the second piece on top with its edge right on the line on the lower piece and clamp it all down
5. Use a small and very sharp plane to cut the scarf using the table edge and the line on each plank as datum points

It's the small details that take the most effort, just remember to look at them from a few feet away. The fact that they are that good at that scale is very impressive.

I think we all know the feeling of a tiny piece we've labored over disappearing into the abyss just as it's finished.