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knightyo

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Posts posted by knightyo

  1. 1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

     

    Now another question for the PE experts: I noticed that the Vallejo Primer tends to flake and peel on the brass parts, when you lightly sand it. I wonder if the Tamiya primer may work better or if I should go with an automotive primer. Any suggestions?

     

    Also, what kind of stands do you guys use to present such a model? Where do you find the brass or other metal parts used to display our models ? And NO, I am not going to use the ugly plastic stands provided by the Trumpeter.

     

    Yves

     

    I've been sucked back into the plastic realm due to watching some of incredible plastic models being built on here recently (still need to finish my Syren/Triton/Nina, but that's beside the point :)).  I was in the hobby store the other day debating what type of primer to apply to my 1/350 Fletcher.  I've stayed away from Vallejo due to the experiences that Greg has relayed in his log; the guy in the hobby store (who actually seemed extremely knowledgeable) said that he loved Mr. Surfacer, and used it for all of his work.   Other's might chime in if they've used this product.  

     

    For brass parts.. I picked up a package of 2 small brass rods at Lowe's (in nuts and bolts section) for around 8 bucks, and copied Greg's method of inserting them into wood blocks in the hull.  It was extremely easy!  (I used a 2-part epoxy to secure the wood blanks into the hull).

     

    Alan

     

     

  2. Still fiddling with the finish on the main model.  This morning I applied a 50/50 mixture of tung/mineral spirits to the "virgin" sections.  We'll see how it goes.  I also began cutting out my pre-soaked/bent "side ribs" to place next to the "ribs" on the bottom of the boat.  Once the ribs have been installed, I'll cut the tops off of them on each side, as another plank will be running along the top of the inside of the boat under the rail.  I'll also sand all of the ribs smooth and uniform.  However... This morning when I began dry placing a few side ribs in the boat, I realized that all the ribs were far, far too wide!  There's a part of me which wants to go ahead and install the rest of them, but the part that will win out is the part which knows that overly wide ribs will drive me nuts.   Now the question is how to thin them.  The bottom ribs have already been glued.  It actually might be easiest to install them all, and sand them in place as opposed to trying to sand the remainder before installing.. They are so small, they are pretty hard to handle.

     

    Alan

     

    2074593215_IMGP1688-800.jpg.4a305674485f502943b5e7af1d6bea78.jpg

  3. Excellent feedback.  Thank you!  I'll fiddle with what I've already done, then thin the oil with mineral spirits, and proceed according to the above instruction.

     

    Mark, no danger of glue spots on this one.  I'd sanded the rails down with progressively finer grits until the last phase, which was done with a grit almost as fine as paper.  I do wonder if the surface was "too" smooth, not allowing the oil to penetrate properly...

     

    Alan

  4. It looks like I have an interesting experiment on my hands (below).  The right side of the back rail has had tung oil applied, and apparently the back rail received a few drops as well.  The "splotchiness" of the finish has been an unfortunate surprise.   I've been reading logs regarding tung oil; it appears that some people apply directly to the model at 100% strength, whereas others apply a 50/50 mixture of tung and mineral spirits.  I suspect now that I should have applied a 50/50 mixture to avoid splotchiness.  Thoughts?  I've also heard that "more is better", and that splotchiness can be overcome with more coats.  I can go that route, or apply mineral spirits now to remove what has been done to date.  Thoughts?  I'm not sure how to proceed.  

     

    The frustrating thing is that I tested the tung oil at 100% strength on identically sanded samples, and none of them revealed the splotchiness effect.  Just this rail.  The sides also look acceptable with just the "shiyiness" aspect to address....

     

    Alan

     

    766098420_IMGP1681-800.jpg.bcbbe67b492c34935a3d0a2938b58aec.jpg

  5. I've been attempting to draw out the deck planking pattern for my Triton project on graph paper which has worked out very well for me in the past.  However, since the deck planks taper towards the bow/stern resulting in curved planks and planks with differing widths, my graph paper and pencil method has been leaving a lot to be desired.  What would be the easiest software solution to fiddle with planking pattern design?  I've been told Sketchup is the way to go since I have virtually zero drawing/CAD experience, but wanted to check with this group as well...

     

    Alan

  6. The timing of posts has a large effect on whether or not one receives comments.  It often just depends who sees the posting when it occurs.  Since there are often a large number of posts (especially in the Kits area), build logs can become overlooked very easily.   If I have a question on any given technique or I am really stuck on something, I'll go to the relevant "techniques" area and pose the question as opposed to bringing the question up in my own log.   If a log has been established for a while and already has a number of followers, there will be a higher likelihood of questions being answered within the log.

     

    I believe the other thing which occurs is that we all go through "phases" of interest, and only view certain "types" of logs during these phases.   Just like life, any type of community like this can be fairly random.. :)

     

     

    Alan

  7. I've decided to pretty drastically update this log, as all of the early construction posts were eventually rendered obsolete as I changed my mind and started the model over a few times in order to attempt to make it a little more accurate.  The model currently doesn't resemble the mini-mamoli kit a lot, although the original core of wood is still in the center of the ship in most places. I'll probably also stay with the early lateen sail plan, although I'm toying with the idea of alterning the masts to reflect the voyage across the Atlantic.  

     

    Alan

     

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