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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Hmm... that opening looks like it has at least one ship's boat inside it. If so, there would be a walkway down each side from poop deck to the forecastle. Depending on how many boats were carried, there could be two side by side plus spare spars down there. And there would not have any gratings over that opening due to the size of it.
  2. Mike, If you haven't done so, drop the wood into some water for say 30 minutes or so. The heat will turn it to steam and help with the thicker planks. Yep.. more testing.
  3. See if there's a "builder's" service in your town. They can usually do copy enlargements and reductions far cheaper than places like FedEx and stationary stores. I did the whole set for my current build of 15 plans for around $25. That included 1 hard copy and also a CD with a PDF of each print. I've also found that a "builder's" service is far more likely to give me an exact % of increase or decrease compared to the places like FedEX and the stationary stores. Also, what Jaager says. Printer/Copiers are pretty cheap and you can pull the scan into something like Corel Draw to size, clean up, modify, etc.
  4. Ron, Please put the build photos and text into your build log as that's a more appropriate place. Thanks.
  5. There's a big difference between being dumb and not having the knowledge or terminology. So smile... you're not dumb.
  6. Thanks for explanation Bob and for the video Steven. Clears up my question.
  7. For the large ones, slip the dead eye into the metal strop. Then squeeze the long end together. Some solder that while others wrap it with some thread. The smaller ones just snap fit in side. As for modifying the channels, you'll need to file an opening where the deadeye will sit then after fitting, put a long piece plastic to secure the strop/deadeye into place.
  8. I have one, IR3. Lovely machine though other than testing it, I haven't got around to actually making rope. But the test ropes came out very nicely.
  9. Welcome to MSW. I can't answer you're questions, but if you don't get an answer here, post your questions here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/13-ships-plans-and-project-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/
  10. Jo, Get a copy of Wolfram zu Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models. It's well illustrated and pretty detailed. There are some errors but mostly its a good, basic book on period ships and nomenclature. Used copies are usually pretty inexpensive.
  11. Are the oars actually just about touching when rowing on the real vessel? I've wondered about that ever since seeing "Ben Hur" if they were close or separated.
  12. Dean, I went into overdrive. I've ripped the keel off and am replacing it with one a bit wider that will give me 1/16" (~2.0 mm). Between that and just a very small amount of taper, I'll have enough to work with planking. It'll take me a few days as I have other priorities going on. I do appreciate the extra eyeballs. Been a big help.
  13. When I moved mine, I rolled some large bath towels and packed them around the model. They all arrived without damage after a 30 minute drive through town.
  14. Hi Jahno, Welcome to MSW from someone also in southern Oregon.
  15. Hi Hektor, Welcome to MSW. I'd suggest that you pick the one that's easiest and also start a build log.
  16. Your problems make it seem like the kit was designed from the original plans and "as built"/"as changed during sea tests", etc. weren't incorporated. I'm glad your overcoming the problems. She's looking great.
  17. This does look to be a challenging yet interesting and unique model. As for machining things, you'd be surprised at what can be done with hand tools and brass. If you have access to any machine tools, that's even better.
  18. Thanks for the "likes", I appreciate it. Pat, There isn't any rabbet yet. I've been trying mentally to sort this out before I glue the bulkheads into place. The problem is the keel is 5+mm thick while the false keel is 3+mm thick. I basically have two options. The first is thin the planks where they meet the keel/false keel junction. The other is grind away some material of the false keel but I'll still have "nudge" the planks in. I think a 1mm plank is totally impractical but I'm sorting it out. If someone has good idea, I'd appreciate it, but outside of going to 1:48, which makes for other problems, I'm considering the options above.
  19. One has to consider that back then, mail could take months to be delivered or longer for mail from ships. So, no secrets were probably exposed until well after the fact.
  20. Pure wisdom, Ab. And I laughed out loud at your "unnatural relationship" comment as that was a new one I hadn't heard.
  21. Eric, When in doubt, go with the plans, photos, and wreck itself. Since these were designed and build by many yards, all sorts of variations are possible.
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