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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks for all the recommendations. I like Allan's idea and if I have cut anything bigger than I can laser, I'll give that try. I ended up with a small can of "Spray Mount" from Scotch brand after speaking with the sale person at the local office supply house. It's holding fine and when I'm done, a bit acetone should clean the wood up nicely for gluing bulkheads, etc. I think this is the only time I'll have to use it as I can laser the bulkheads (whew!) as I'm not the best scroll saw operator.
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While it is a good reference, one must check for dates and nationality as things changed and varied by country (including the duties and numbers of the gun crew) over time. But overall, it's a good document and can help understand how the guns were manned and served. Thanks for posting this Phil. I'll bookmark for future reference.
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Dave, How heavy will the booth be? I'd be worried about it being top heavy and easily knocked over.
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I'd say not nylon. Find the smallest (thinnest) cotten thread you can. Try a sewing shop.
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Yves, Follow your heart and see where it leads. You may try #3 and realize you're way over your head. You many do #1 and then be mad later because it's too pristine. I'd say use #2 as your baseline. If you feel comfortable and up to doing more, go for it. I do like the rust by the way and other aging things you've done. Which raises a question... how often were the subs pulled out and put in drydock?
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You can add that eyebolt as in the picture you show but it was actually British and possibly American method. On the plans, there's two sets of eyebolts. The two rear most were for the training for in hauling the cannon. The two in front of the rear trucks are for running the gun out after serving. These plans are from ANCRE for Belle Poule, so I don't doubt their accuracy. Zu Monfeld shows similar for the period. I'll include it for comparison along with a top view of it in place and rigged. Note that in practice the crew would often only use one in haul and that the in hauls were normally not attached unless absolutely needed. They often just loosened one tackle and ran it back to the eyebolt in the deck. It saved time actually. There was much traffic with powder monkies, gunners, officers, etc and the in hauls just got in the way.
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The wood arrived and is currently laying flat on my bench with some heavy weights on it. I guess spending a week in the back of truck in this heat and humidity did it. I'm also going to have to rework my drawings a tad as, for example, the quarter inch thick wood isn't. It's about 1/32 shy of 1/4 inch so I'll need to close up the tolerance on the slots in the false keel.
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gun ports
mtaylor replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Looking good. Comparing the ship the plan on the wall, I think you nailed it. -
Don't feel bad. It is easy to mix up plans and cause yourself confusion. Hopefully you can save and use some of the parts you have cut.
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gun ports
mtaylor replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
That seems to be typical. Best bet is to figure out how many ports, the size, and then adjust the spacing between them. -
The French had the bolts and rings down the deck behind the guns. As for the guns themselves. there were two eye bolts (one on each side at the rear. They did often use only one tackle to pull the gun to the rear. I'm attaching a drawing from the La Belle Poule which is a tad earlier in the period than your ship. I hope this helps.
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gun ports
mtaylor replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Generally speaking, the gun ports will follow the run of the deck so there probably would be a gentle curve fore and aft with the low spot in the middle. When built, many times the ports are clear of the wale(s) in some places and cut into them in others do to the sheer (curve) of the planking. The idea is that each port is the same height above the deck. -
Depending on that programs, apps, etc. on your computer, you might be able to import the plans and reduce them down to print out at the right size.
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John, Welcome to MSW. I'd suggest that your next project to open a build log.
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