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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    With stock tires...not really. It ran in the 13's - 15's depending on the temp, humidty, etc. Beefed up rearend with a nice set of slicks... it could hit the 10's at night. Note that the was a stock motor with a QuadraJunke. The factory 4 bolt had issues with the outer bolt placement. Taking a 2 bolt and having the shop rework it was the way to go. From a website: 283 crank; (4.125/2)^2 * 3.14 * 3 * 8 = 320.6 327 crank; (4.125/2)^2 * 3.14 * 3.25 * 8 = 347.3 Big grenade. Use the aftermarket aluminum pistons, raise the compression a fair amount and they screamed. Usuallly aftermarket as the stock rods were NOT forged and prone to coming apart if you exeeded about 6000 rpm. Forged.. could run to around 8000 rpm.
  2. mtaylor
    Thanks everyone. My mindset is starting to work it's way out of the darkness. Still have a way to go but at least I feel I'm moving forward. My shrink, this group, and my ships are going a long way to speed up the healing process. Not a bad idea but this far along it is a problem. The hulls are close, but the sterns and the hull shape at the stern are significantly different. Same for masting which as it turns out, Licorne is basically the same size as La Venus but rigged as Belle Poule. I have been thinking for a long time on doing Belle Poule since both ships were together off the English coast on one very certain day. The English fleet showed up and Belle Poule got away and had greater glory off the the coast of France. Licorne surrendered to the English squadron while surrounded by a few 74's. France declared war the next day. If I ever get the frigates done, maybe I'll look into the lugger. Who knows where this will lead?
  3. mtaylor
    Joe, when cutting how far out is the blade above the wood? When you shut it down, is the blade hot? Not a Byrne's owner but I find if I wait between cuts maybe 30 seconds it's helps to keep the blade cooler. What length are you cutting? Hmmm.... according to the instructions I have, for 3/64 stock, a 170 tooth blade. Have a look here as there's a lot of tips on using the saw:
  4. mtaylor
    I too have a Domanonff rope machine. Currently it's sitting as originally sold (no upgrades installed) but I do have all the upgrades. I will say it takes some practice and experimentation to get it to make good rope, but then don't they all? Hopefully, I'll find the initiative to install the upgrades this spring. Then I'll start the learning curve all over again. Yes, went through a large amount of thread with it but then, I hadn't a clue how to make rope when I started.
  5. mtaylor
    Right, they were aluminum and there were problems with casting early on. The model (a station wagon) that I had came with steel cylinder sleeves though and was the only Vega model with a posi-rear end. I think that was the reason I got that many miles out of it. But, putting a small block 400 in it (with the 327 metal labels on the side of the front fenders) was a eyeopener even in stock mode (no engine mods).
  6. mtaylor
    I had a Vega wagon. When the motor died at 100,000, that when I started playing with V8's in them. Pity they put the wrong engine in the thing at the start but the rotary would have been a real disaster.
  7. mtaylor
    Thanks for the comments and support. I'm starting to feel better internally as I realize that there's too many things that that we, as either onlookers or participants, can't change things but only ride the storm out. Time, it is said, heals all wounds. So, with that in mind, I'll be looking for a copy shop tomorrow that can reduce down some rather large drawings to the scale I want them. Belle Poule looks to be the obvious choice as it does fulfill my criteria. One is "not many models have been made of her", the other, it's significant in it's own right. The last is a side reason.... Licorne and Belle Poule were the "excuse" for France entering into the American Revolution. Having said that... they both pretty much look alike but with differences some major, some not so major. They both are about the same length overall but naturally the masting and rigging are vastly different. Once I get the plans sized and a build method I'll start a log. Probably end up working both ships at the same time.
  8. mtaylor
    Frustrating work but the end result is worth it. Just super lovely.
  9. mtaylor
    Hello John, Welcome to MSW. MSW is a great resource and I hope you'll open a log.
  10. mtaylor
    Beautiful work, JCT. Both look look ready for a run-off down the track.
  11. mtaylor
    Thanks for the explanation, IR3. I'm wrapping my head around this and will do some Googling but I do grasp what you're saying. This is one of those things that most of us probably wouldn't think about.
  12. mtaylor
    As much as I want to "like" the post for the build work, I can't because of the news. My sympathies Eric. Good friends are tough to loose. Close friends even harder.
  13. mtaylor
    By jove, I think you got it!
  14. mtaylor
    If you find the 1:100 scale a bit too small, you should be able to take the plans to a copy shop and scale them up.
  15. mtaylor
    You are a bit tight in there for space, aren't you? I've not fiddled with RC but have a question or two. What I think I'm seeing is that the two outer rudders will move in opposite directions when the servo moves where as the servo on the left will move the "sled" for the Lurssen effect. Or doesn't the servo (it is a servo, right) move the outer rudders during a turn? Fascinating work and reasoning to get the proper effects when in the water.
  16. mtaylor
    Dave, Welcome to MSW. The lady you're looking for is Doris and she has done several ships here at MSW. All are masterpieces. Here's her current log:
  17. mtaylor
    Thanks for the support, my friends, I guess I should clarify. I'm not giving up though for a few days I did consider burning her in the stocks. But I didn't. I intend to finish but need a break from her, so I'll put her away until the muse hits again. What started out as a tribute to my wife, now ex-wife with serious health issues, took the wind out the sails and explained to me a lot of the turmoil of the last two years. Meantime, I'm thinking of trying to loft the next project. I don't think it'll be that hard to learn but will require some serious focus so that should help my mental state. I will try to fiddle and get a few sub-assemblies done for Licorne but for the next week/month <not sure, maybe longe> I'm going to work on getting my mojo back.
  18. mtaylor
    Will you be painting the model? Or leaving it the natural wood color? If painting, use the kit wood. Otherwise, you have some great advice for those above.
  19. mtaylor
    I would think the vinegar being acidic would be bad for cleaning sails. The commercial cleaner (liquid laundry soap) with a gentle soak, rinse, and dry would probably be best. I have heard of folks using baking soda but that's a basic and might be as bad as acid.
  20. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW, Jonathan. I hope you'll start a build log and let us look over your shoulder. From the 3 photos, your work is wonderful.
  21. mtaylor
    Sam, I think the Yellow Cedar is a dream wood. A bit soft compared to say boxwood (ok... quite a bit softer) but it does take nice edges and a very smooth surface is possible. Order a plank or two from Chuck and try it. Hello to all. As for today.. I'm not sure where I'm going with this build at the moment. I've not progressed much as there's too much new turmoil going on personally since the first of the year, and with all the confusion, unknown outcomes, etc. things are a bit static. In the scheme of things, the mild stroke I had two years ago was minor compared to what's been going on since then and has recently escalated. It's not a health issue with me. Hopefully, I can re-find my focus and continue with her. If I can't get the motivation back, I'll just leave her on the shelf and start a new project. Please bear with me.
  22. mtaylor
    Looking good. As for the light sheen, I think with all the oiling going on the bearings, lots of parts down low would have that "oily sheen".
  23. mtaylor
    I looked closer at the Falconer drawing (the upper one).... there is no breeching rope or it's "hidden" as Vossiewulf says. What we see going over the button is the outhaul tackle line that's laying across the button and then falls off to the rear on the deck. <smacks forehead>
  24. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW, Irishrover. There's lots of ways to skin the cat, so to speak. There's the wealth of knowledge here at MSW. There's also a database with lots of good info here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php Scroll down on the front page and there's forums for just about any topic you'd ever want. In the kit build logs, you'll find some logs of that model that others have done and will give you a very good idea of what to expect. Also, starting a log of your own is a great way to get help and meet other builders. Books are good for get familiar with the hobby and there will be recommendations from lots of people. My first 3 books were: How to Build First-Rate Ship Models From Kits by Beb Lankford A Modeller's Guide to Hull Construction by A. Richard Mansir and a general reference book that has it's flaws but is still excellent for an overview: Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld
  25. mtaylor
    Pond, If you haven't done so, have a look at the two pinned posts here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ There's also a simplified planking here that's worth a look: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php There is a lot of good information in the database besides planking, btw.

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