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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Pond, If you haven't done so, have a look at the two pinned posts here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ There's also a simplified planking here that's worth a look: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php There is a lot of good information in the database besides planking, btw.
  2. I'll go along with the others on this except for one point. I doubt the breeching rope would have went through an eyebolt when using the gun. That's a weak point subject to breakage. If you pull back the gun, the angles involved would tend to lift the forward end. Maybe not much though. Then again, the eyebolt might also help keep the breeching on the button when firing. Falconer does have an interesting set of drawings. It looks like breeching rope was used also as the tackle to put the gun back into battery. Somehow, I just think that's really doable due to the diameter of the rope. Top part of your Flaconer scan with the gun pulled back. The line reeves through the eyebolt and pulleys as well as running over the button. There's something about this that just doesn't seem like a good thing.
  3. Here's a PDF that might get you started... Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf
  4. I'm surprised they didn't call him "Jinx" as every ship he was on was sunk. Or maybe he should have been named "Lucky"????
  5. Hi Zbip57, Interesting project to say the least. Looking good. I'd like to suggest that you move the relevant pics, etc. to the scratch build area as this area is more for introductions than build logs, etc.
  6. Well done, jct. An interesting linage for that beast (in the model sense). One can almost smell the nitro....
  7. Hi Chris, Welcome to MSW. As for planking, there's two good tutorials here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ The top two pinned topic. There is also a "beginner's" tutorial here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php It's the second item on that page.
  8. The only ones bigger was the so-called "atomic cannon" and then there's the ones they tried building on the side of a mountain. But they were never operational. Given the choice it's a toss up on the ship or the gun. Maybe you need to do the gun as a diversion or as Monte Python's famous line: "And now for something completely different".
  9. Griphos, Would brass or aluminum work? Aluminum would be cheaper for shipping (weight). Brass is easier to work than steel. Aluminum is a grey area depending on the "hardness".
  10. I gave it a "like".... I like the non-defeatist mindset. Is there something that could be put on the decal before soaking that would hold them together? I know almost zilch about plastic since it's been such a very long time. Come to think of it.. I have a CH-53 (thanks Lou) in closet I need to dig out and build one of these days.
  11. I don't think they "galvanized" steel back then. Stoves were either on a slab of iron or a layer of firebrick. The chimneys were iron and black.
  12. By jove, I think you've got it. Looking good on the shrouds.
  13. The glue/water doesn't seem to "soften" but then it's basically cloth and watered glue. I'm seeing no signs of drooping on the flag(s) that I've done. I also lightly brush the same mixture on the rigging lines to help them hold their shape and resist humidity changes. Been about 10 years on the Wasa and several on the Constellation so there is no long term observation.
  14. I haven't tried it, but I'd think that a tumbler would wipe out a lot detail since it take off the high spots and do nothing for inward curves.
  15. The problem I see with this discussion is that we have no authoritative source other than Falconer and his drawing leaves a lot open for interpretation. And there's a problem with Falconer.. it appears that he's only showing the training tackle or the "run-out" tackle and method of stowage. If you look at the lower of his drawings, the "breech rope" goes from the button down to the eye bolts on the carriage, which in my opinion if used for firing would cause the gun muzzle and front wheels to rise. What I'm seeing as pertains here is mostly second source info, not just here in this discussion but many involving the rigging of guns, even the masts and more. Much was left up to the discretion of such things to the Captain. We have tales of captains re-rigging and changing things that could be changed. So what's correct for rigging guns? All of them? Some of them? Basically, it boils down to best guess unless we can get that time machine working.
  16. Nice work. I saved a copy also.
  17. Ever price racecar insurance? Yikes. Even just for transporting it's pricey.
  18. Google is your friend: https://www.google.com/search?q=4mm+steel+bar&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS832US832&oq=4mm+steel+bar&aqs=chrome..69i57.7156j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Where I live there's a metal supplier who carries much of what I need at a very reasonable price and no shipping (a big plus). You might check the phone book or again... some Googling. I note that the big home improvement stores show up in the Google link above.
  19. Hi Larry, Welcome to MSW. Good advice from everyone but I'll add to it. I take it you don't have the kit yet. I bought my first model and wanted the Billings' Wasa. Opened the box and read the instruction. Put every thing back in the box and went back to the local hobby shop and bought a simple cannon/deck kit and and two masted ship. Built them and then went to Wasa. Was a fun journey but necessary journey to get there. BTW, this was before the Web so I was on my own when I started. No matter what you chose, do start a log as you'll get support and more than likely make some friends along the way as we're a pretty friendly bunch of madmen and madwomen.
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