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Posts posted by mtaylor
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A few more links:
http://southseas.nla.gov.au/refs/falc/contents.html
https://maritime.org/doc/steel/index.htm
and then there's this one so pack a lunch and beverage of choice... just about all links on everything nautical:
- thibaultron and Katoom
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From other comments here and yes, I did the Mpc mcLaren MK 8 kit like Lou. Maybe it is unintentionally intentional to encourage certain panels being left off. Just strikes me as weird that the way everything is fitting like a glove but that one piece.
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Ingenious. Looks fantastic from here.
- Canute and thibaultron
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I'm not liking the post though I am liking your perseverance is seeking an answer to the problem. When the engine cover goes on, does it fit right or same issue?
- CDW, popeye the sailor and Canute
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My solution is a large tub of water in the shop all year around. But... my shop has air conditioning for summer and dry heat (electric baseboard) for winter.
You might consider a de-humidifier for summer and try the tub of water first before investing in a humidifier for winter..
- keelhauled, Canute and Keith Black
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When you're ready, Froggyman, open a build log. It's the best way to get help and encouragement.
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There's a ton of brush on and spray on conformal coatings available. Almost down to "close your eyes and pick one". Watch the credits at the end of "Bitchin' Rides" and see what they list. You might need to tape it and play it back in slow motion to see it, though.
A lot of electronic manufacturers still use a brush on conformal coating that's epoxy based. Been awhile since I've been around one to remember what was being used.
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31 minutes ago, jct said:
Thanks Mark...great to have a resident expert in the house, much appreciated!
Not an expert since I'm working from memory here and since the stroke, not always right. I do try to check my references though.
22 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:for this model, they just show the cable going from the chute to the rear deck. if I wanted to do it {per Mark's suggestion}, I'd have to make it from scratch. I think it odd that they didn't include it......the model is certainly big enough. I'll see about making one
thanks Mark!
Denis,
It just hit me... what I spec'd out above was for rear-engine cars. The front engine didn't need to run outside the cage/chassis tubing unless it went next to the tranny. My bad.....
- lmagna, Canute and popeye the sailor
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J,
The parachute cable, per the regs at the time, will route outside the chassis such that it's' not exposed to any blow up of clutch, tranny, or engine. Gives you a bit of latitude on where to mount the D-ring. Some drivers liked it over their head, some on either the left or right side and others like the pull to come up at the front of the seat. Pretty much your choice, IMO.
Footnote... same for the electrical switches to control the fuel and ignition and the fire bottle cable and ring. Drivers had them put where it most comfortable and easy to reach.
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I don't think it's a whaler as there's no sign of the equipment for rendering the blubber. I'm partial to the packet ship label.
- russ and paulsutcliffe
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Welcome aboard Froggyman.
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Most hobby shops carry brass wire rods and tubes for the RC folks. Probably pricier than a roll but they usually are straight.
- Canute, thibaultron, Keith Black and 3 others
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4 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:
At the risk of thread drift, I do think there's a general discussion to be had in the hobby regarding whether or not there is a line that can be drawn between "craft' and "art" in modeling. Is the perfect reproduction of a model part accomplished by the use of CAD and 3D printing really "art," or merely the technique of an accomplished craftsperson? (Which isn't to say there's necessarily anything "mere" about accomplished craftmanship.) The advent of digital photography certainly took a bite out of the photographic art work market. (I'm sure professional photographers had the same complaint when Kodak came out with the "Brownie" camera for the masses a hundred years ago.) I'm wondering if 3D printing isn't poised to similarly devalue the artistic merit of ship modeling. Perhaps that's a story for another night, though.
In brief, me thinks that "craft' and "art" apply equally to model ship building. The "craft" is the focus on the design and getting near as possible to the real thing. The "art" is the interpretation of the plans, details, etc. as scale. I think the masters of model shipbuilding are masters at both the craft and the art. There's a saying I hear decades ago... we learn our craft to produce art. So there's really not much separation in my opinion. Anyway, enough blathering from me.
- leclaire, Canute, paulsutcliffe and 3 others
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Thanks for that link... I've bookmarked it for later as there is sooooo much there. What a trip down memory lane.
- CDW, lmagna, popeye the sailor and 2 others
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The four engine was a nightmare from what I understood. Getting all four engines synced was a big problem. I know he went through a bunch of changed including going from each engine driving one wheel to setups where the front engines drove the front wheels and rear drove the back. I think he ended up with the pair on the left driving the front and the pair on the right driving the rear... again the mists of time. Edit: the photo shows what I thought he ended up with. It would have been a handful to drive any way it was configured.
I had the pleasure of working with Bill Maverick back around mid-seventies... he was doing clocks for souvenirs, and I did some photography and dark room work for him. Was track photographer for a few years and had a lot of fun and met a lot of great people. Something about standing on the edge of the asphalt with all the smells and noise about 20 feet away from the starting line. Then there was diving over the guard rail if someone got out of wack during launch. Sometimes had to change underwear afterwards. Wish I had the photos from back then... rolls and rolls of 35mm negatives... lost during various moves.
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There's resources here on MSW also....
There's the database: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php that has some basic articles and also a CAD tutorial.
and then there's here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/34-cad-and-3d-modellingdrafting-plans-with-software/ Which while CAD oriented might be helpful.
Lastely, there's here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/13-ships-plans-and-project-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/ There's a pinned article at the top and for other topic, use the search.
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Lovely work, Marcus. This has been both fun and educational to follow. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder.
- thibaultron and Canute
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IF I recall correctly... big IF here, the first "funnies" had to have the stock ground clearance. There were limitations on body style, what had to be on the body and what didn't. At some point (good for them) the safety aspect took over and allowed dropping the body down to the ground practically. I do vaguely recall a car in drag racing but it have been NASCAR that put a hard rubber apron (for lack of a better word) between the body shell and the ground for aerodynamics.
The rails had been around since the beginning. What the innovation occurred was with Garlits who had a bad crash/fire and figured out that putting the engine in the rear was the way to go for safety.
Speaking of history..... anyone remember the 4-engine beast by Tommy Ivo? There were more than a few two engine ones, but Ivo's the first 4 engine. Not very successful in competition but as an exhibition car, with the twice the tire smoke (4 wheel drive) and 4 times the engine noise it was a crowd pleaser.
I gotta's stop walking down memory lane......
- lmagna, popeye the sailor, CDW and 3 others
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Keeling and Clayton Mustang Funny Car by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 - used to be Lew Arrington's Brutus Funny car
in Non-ship/categorised builds
Posted
The stance is more realistic. It's shame that you didn't scan the decal sheet to print on new decal sheet. Are there any aftermarket decals even if just the generic "sponsor" type?