mtaylor

14 hours ago, lmagna said:

It looks like at about 1:33 they may have had a little prop clearance problems on either taking off or landing. But it is pretty clear it flew. 

 

I kind of fine it odd that the canards have no accommodations for movement or control surfaces. It would seem that if they were the aircraft would be much more maneuverable.

 

Are you going to build a diorama? Or just display it with covers off?

I'm thinking that the nose was too high and lowered the tail.  Perhaps should have been the other way around.  Even then, pulling back on the stick a bit too early might create problems.

I'll add that there's some good articles on planking for beginners in the database:  http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

I can't tell from this angle, but if a gun were set there wouldn't the barrel need to be elevated a fair amount for the gun to clear everything forward of it?   Even so, ports like that probably wouldn't have had guns permanently installed there but the forward most would be moved.  It's a pretty tight fit up there as it is without adding guns.  In many ways, it's like the stern chase ports on some ships.  Not filled normally.

As for the seats of ease in use when firing the guns... nope.   If it's in the middle of battle or a chase, the men would have been at their stations.

Just like they did with the real ones then... change the paint, change the name... and run with it.

If you're going to build a box and use framing at the corners all around, instead of plywood all around consider clear polycarbonate (plexiglass) on at least one side.  At least then where ever you put it until a case can be made, you and your family/guests will be able to see it.  I did that for model I didn't have room to display in a case so I made the box and hung it on the wall of the workshop for years.   

If you use the fabric flags, bend aluminum foil to the shape of the "ripple" and then use diluted white glue (50-50) and soak the flag, stick it down to the foil and let it dry.  It should hold the ripple when it comes off.  I used that on my Constellation and my Vasa.

If the channels are painted or the hull area where they fit is painted, scrap some of the paint off so you get a good bond. Othewise the glue will stick to the paint and it doesn't take much pressure to pull off the channel and take a large chunk of paint with it.   Don't ask how I know.... 

I see what you're saying about the decals.  A bit of paint touch up might just work.

On the chute... the release cable wouldn't be mounted anywhere on the body but only to the chassis.  On the bottom of the chute package, there were two nylon lines (flat as I recall) that ran from the package, down, under the body and attached to the chassis.  Those fiberglass bodies had no strength whatsoever.  IF the body flies off (and they did) you wouldn't want your chute and control cable going with it.

I see you already posted it to the topic in Questions/Problem area already.   This isn't an issue for us mods but the admins are looking into it.  It seems to be one problem that comes and goes.

The engine area is filling out nicely.  Looks super.

It might be easier to make scale armor that looks like scales on a fish.  Use paper for the scales.   

And here's two Mark's.....   Very nice, Paul.

I really can't add to what the others have said, so I'll just say:  "Welcome to MSW".

Welcome back to MSW, Geonas.

True on the acrylic.  From the builds using acrylic (or other methods like 3D printing) they still look good.

3 hours ago, vossiewulf said:

I've wondered why people don't use acrylic rod to scratch guns. It's cheaper and easier to turn than brass and holds at least as much detail, and is indistinguishable from brass once painted.

Force of habit maybe?  Tradition?  Who knows?   For me, I like turning brass but not sure why.  Maybe it's just the lathe and cutting noise that's soothing along with the feel and heft of brass. 

Temptinig... but HMS Visa is down by the stern and afire.  Someone will be getting a great sander and a great deal.

There are no words that I can come up with to describe those cannon.  

Just a thought on the valves, Eric.   All three boilers are tied together by the steam drum.  High pressure would therefore be "felt" in all the boilers and all the pipes.   So having the valves within reach (outboard) would also vent the middle boiler.   I'm guessing that the valves might have had to be manually reset?  But being above the head of the crew the middle one (if there was one) would only have been heard when it blew.

Stay warm.  I don't envy you folks east of me.

Stunning work, Gerald.  

A couple of suggestions on the scroll saw.  Remove the metal plate that the blade is passing through and make one out of wood or metal (your choice) with a hole just slightly larger than the blade.  It'll take some fiddling to get the right thickness.  Also, I brace mine on the underside with scrap as the vacuum I use for pulling in the sawdust deforms it.  The smaller hole keeps the wood from flexing over the hole.  

As for finding the "right" way for the blade, run your thumb lightly over it in both directions.  One way will catch on your skin, and that is the end that goes down.   

As for the drifting mind... I have that also so I take breaks sometimes even in the middle of a cut.  It slows production but at least I don't end up have to re-cut a piece I screwed up from lack of focus.

My mind too is definitely boggled at the detail, Pat.  Just amazing.

Beautiful and well-thought out work, Eric.   Perhaps a few casks of homemade wine on board then?

Nat,

Also post your request here:  https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/41-traders-dealers-buying-or-selling-anything-discuss-new-products-and-ship-model-goodies-here-as-well/    

Gabe ponders...

And I could use some advice from you folks!  I face a couple of conundrums: 

a) should I paint and apply a finish to the current planking before I close off the (small) area with the lower deck?

If it's not going to be accessible, then by all means yes.  If there's going to be various bits and pieces installed in that area, do those and seal before blocking access.

b) Should I work on the gunports and stabilizing the frame tops before the main deck?

By all means, stabilize the frames.  As for the gunports.. again, it's question of access.  If you're planking the  inside and/or the outside, do them before planking.